Axle click
#1
Axle click
First generation G's are very well aware of the problem of clicking axles. I wasn't aware that it also plagued the G37 until I happened to notice it on my car recently. As far as I've been able to discern form what I've read about it, the clicking isn't causing any damage to components. It's just annoying. Does anyone know exactly what is causes it to make the clicking sound? I know it requires lubrication at the interface between the axle stub and rear of the wheel hub, but what is actually clicking?
Yet another quality control issue that has gone ignored by Nissan/Infiniti through 2 generations of this car. Great job QC engineers! Kaizen my azz.
I will fix it this weekend pending good weather. Has anyone else noticed it on their G37 coupe or sedan?
Yet another quality control issue that has gone ignored by Nissan/Infiniti through 2 generations of this car. Great job QC engineers! Kaizen my azz.
I will fix it this weekend pending good weather. Has anyone else noticed it on their G37 coupe or sedan?
#2
Registered User
Here you go man- http://www.infinitig37.com/TSB/1SB3.pdf
I called my dealership (which is terrible) and they said it'll be $280 to fix it. Even though I have the extended factory warranty, which is horse **** in my opinion. It won't cause any damage, but over time it will eventually lead to a mental breakdown because it's so incredibly annoying.
I called my dealership (which is terrible) and they said it'll be $280 to fix it. Even though I have the extended factory warranty, which is horse **** in my opinion. It won't cause any damage, but over time it will eventually lead to a mental breakdown because it's so incredibly annoying.
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krazyfiend (06-20-2019)
#3
I'm long, long out of warranty and I'm not a customer that overpays for oil changes and other basic overpriced maintenance that I prefer to do myself so there's no chance of a dealership extending me any "customer good will". Straight DIY for me.
Thanks for the link to the TSB. Unbelievably, there are many, many different TSBs for this issue covering basically every Nissan vehicle you can imagine. By combing through them I learned that the 350Z and G35 had a different fastener setup than our cars on the differential end of the axle that uses the bolts along with nuts and washers. And spring washers underneath the axle nut. Ours don't. There's also numerous different torque specs given in the various TSBs. Ours is very specific in stating that torquing to less than 133 or more than 136 ft/lbs and the issue may come back. That's a pretty small window considering most all torque wrenches have a far greater error factor than that. And one TSB even gives the lazy way to to it, by just removing the axle nut and pushing it back enough to smear some grease in there without removing the axle completely. Amazing, seeing as this one is very specific - "The amount of grease used is critical for success of the repair.
Do not use too much or too little."
And just out of curiosity, why must the axle be rotated 180 degrees when reinstalling? Anybody know?
Thanks for the link to the TSB. Unbelievably, there are many, many different TSBs for this issue covering basically every Nissan vehicle you can imagine. By combing through them I learned that the 350Z and G35 had a different fastener setup than our cars on the differential end of the axle that uses the bolts along with nuts and washers. And spring washers underneath the axle nut. Ours don't. There's also numerous different torque specs given in the various TSBs. Ours is very specific in stating that torquing to less than 133 or more than 136 ft/lbs and the issue may come back. That's a pretty small window considering most all torque wrenches have a far greater error factor than that. And one TSB even gives the lazy way to to it, by just removing the axle nut and pushing it back enough to smear some grease in there without removing the axle completely. Amazing, seeing as this one is very specific - "The amount of grease used is critical for success of the repair.
Do not use too much or too little."
And just out of curiosity, why must the axle be rotated 180 degrees when reinstalling? Anybody know?
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krazyfiend (06-20-2019)
#7
I'll swing by my local dealership and get one of their factory trained ASE Certified Master Technicians to let me borrow their metric scale that they use to precisely measure out between 1.2 and 4.0 grams of grease each time they perform this procedure. And hopefully they'll regale me with a cautionary tale of the one poor bastard who used 4.3 grams once and the ensuing total engine failure it caused on the customer's car. I certainly don't want to be that guy...
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#9
Registered Member
Now, given that 1.2g - 4.0g is a large range, it still is enough for the average tech/DIY'er to get the idea that I shouldn't slather it on. Further, the person writing this knows that it likely won't be measured out. Rather, the average tech/DIY'er will likely realize that 1.2g - 4.0g is like a dollop on your finger, rather than a scooping it out with your hand.
#10
As a follow up, my issue turned out not to be the dreaded axle click. Instead it was a TPMS that had come loose that was moving around inside the wheel. I could only hear it clicking around in there when starting to roll or coming to a slow stop. So replacing the TPMS made the noise stop and the light on my dash go off (I thought it was a dying battery in one of the sensors).
Now I have the bolts, axle nut, cotter pin, and moly grease for when it does eventually happen or to sell to someone when they need it.
Now I have the bolts, axle nut, cotter pin, and moly grease for when it does eventually happen or to sell to someone when they need it.
#11
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
As a follow up, my issue turned out not to be the dreaded axle click. Instead it was a TPMS that had come loose that was moving around inside the wheel. I could only hear it clicking around in there when starting to roll or coming to a slow stop. So replacing the TPMS made the noise stop and the light on my dash go off (I thought it was a dying battery in one of the sensors).
Now I have the bolts, axle nut, cotter pin, and moly grease for when it does eventually happen or to sell to someone when they need it.
Now I have the bolts, axle nut, cotter pin, and moly grease for when it does eventually happen or to sell to someone when they need it.
#13
If your car is a G35 coupe (I think it is?) the axle is fastened to the differential with different fasteners. Otherwise I'd be glad to for a reasonable fee. If you want some of the Molykote 77 without having to buy more than you need and wait 2 weeks for it, you can have a little of mine. It only requires about a thimble full. I work near downtown most days and occasionally in Spring. If you want some, let me know and I'll bring it to work.
I wondered this myself. Anybody know?
I wondered this myself. Anybody know?
#14
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
If your car is a G35 coupe (I think it is?) the axle is fastened to the differential with different fasteners. Otherwise I'd be glad to for a reasonable fee. If you want some of the Molykote 77 without having to buy more than you need and wait 2 weeks for it, you can have a little of mine. It only requires about a thimble full. I work near downtown most days and occasionally in Spring. If you want some, let me know and I'll bring it to work.
I wondered this myself. Anybody know?
I wondered this myself. Anybody know?