The 7AT has a pinion that balances the driveshaft. When you use the 6MT diff it doesn't have the balancing (centering) pinion. You can wing it and get close to perfect and I thought mine was close. But when I had the centered new shaft on to compare ( I was looking for it.) I could feel the difference.
I think the big tell will be my 0-60 tomorrow. I ran my last during tuning @ 4.74 , I'm hoping this will bring me into the 4.5 range. At any rate it'll be quicker at the track because they prep decent on test n' tune nights.

 

How much that PST CF DS cost you? 1K?

 

It was 1095.00 with the lighter aluminum ends.

 

I've shrugged away from this thread with my own admissions, and now you're supporting exactly what I reported. However, multiply the shudder x2 with the torque of a twin turbo, and you'll understand why I was so quick to say "Don't do it!" LOL!

Good luck. Still paying attention.

Jim

 

Well keep paying attention Coop because if this stuff doesn't do the trick my next step will be to give Andre at Edge Racing a call to build me a converter. He built my Titan converter and it shaved .5 off the quarter mile time. I figure the same build for the G will net even better gains. 3400rpm 2.2str.

 

Now swapping the rear section of the DS should correct this right? Using my stock 7AT front, & adding the 6MT rear from a 6MT coupe... Which is what I have. My install is taking a back seat since I found out I still have 6 months of warranty. Going to wait till it's done. I have time to save up for a custom DS if needed.

 

It can be done that way and I tried to do it but had an epic fail. The key is finding the exact combination of driveshafts. Coop pulled it off but even he purchased at least on rear half that was too short. Mine was too short by about half an inch and wouldn't line up with the center support. I gave up and pulled the flange. I knew then that I was going with PST. The vibration I talked about is very slight and only felt at the top end while pulling. It's not crazy at all but could lead to a front seal leak. The other issue is that these shafts for sale on ebay are utter pieces of $h!+. On both that I purchased the u joints were bad and didn't smoothly rotate. Rather they kinda clicked from position to position when they should've flopped.

 

Soooo I went out this morning because it wasn't raining (Yet). The road appeared to be relatively dry in my spot so I plugged into the laptop and turned on Cipher. First run was a 4.96 with traction control off launching from 2000 rpm. That was a bad decision because the car had way more spin than ever before. Then I decided to go with a simple mash and go. It logged 4.77 but still with much more wheelspin . This is when I noticed the rain on my windshield. I went to my turnaround spot and decided what the hell and did a traction control on run even though it was sprinkling. With a mash and go launch it logged 4.64 with traction control on. I'm pretty solid in my thoughts now that if it were dry with some heat in the road I can log a sub 4.5 . I'm satisfied enough that I can go ahead and install the M370 whenever FedEx decides to bring the damn thing back.

 

Hopefully you can get a better 0-60 in the track, assuming it has proper preparation and is sticky enough.

Are you tuned? I recommend tuning immediately after installing the M370 or you will probably lose some power.

 

Tuning turnaround is the reason I'm glad I got to see that the 0-60 will definitely be quicker than the 4.74 I ran with just the differential. I didn't want the M370 to skew the results. Both the M370 and the resonated xyz got here about 20 minutes ago. They go on tomorrow and I should be done tuning by Friday. This is where all the people with uprev OSIRIS who didn't get a cable are at a disadvantage. As soon as I install I can monitor my afr's and anything else. I also have a tuner license and if I'm feeling bold ( I'm not) I could tune myself. However I'll defer to the godfather of Uprev tuning. I believe my limiting factor for 1/4 mile will be traction even though I'm running 285 Hankooks.

 

I hope not because I just bought some 275's.

You said you don't have a baseline 1/4 mile run right?

 

After today's 0-60 I'm convinced that traction is an issue. Last time I had wheel hop this time it was just spin spin spin. No baseline run because I haven't tracked the car yet because I would've been mad as hell if I took it to the track and it ran a 14 or something crazy. Pretty sure I would have traded it for a 335i or an M. This way even if I fall on my face it'll still be in the 13's. I'll be running at Orlando Speedworld this Friday and the temps are supposed to be in the 60's that night so I should run pretty decent. Same track the stock Sedan ran a 13.1 on last week. If everything goes to hell the 2015 Mustang GT is looking pretty damned tempting

 

Lol. I will stay with my G37 even if I can't hit 13.5 @105 after my new wheels and tires. I bought it primarily for reliability and comfort, then performance.


I'm sure you could hit 12s if it's the same track as that sedan. It would be nice to get a run against him to compare. Maybe PM him?

 

while I don't remember my exact 1/4 time off hand I did log one while I was in the desert when and it was 110 when first got my 4.08s installed.I trapped around 108 but with the heat and altitude 2400 feet it sucked.. shot in the dark I think it was around 14 or something..now that its in the low 40s here at night and I have bigger tires im going to try and get some 0-60 times in.ill do some logging here in a few weeks and see what it does..

 

I'd run drags some Nitto's maybe.