When sitting at a stop in neutral, if I lightly tap the gas pedal and maintain the same pressure, the RPMs won't stay put. It starts to move up and down and my car will start to shake. I also tried pushing in the pedal further while maintaining the same pressure and my RPMs would keep increasing and/or decreasing non-stop or bounce around even worse.

I included a video below with first light pedal pressure applied and held for a while. Near the end I applied a little more pressure to the gas pedal and kept it there and my RPMs would just keep going up and I wasn't even pressing the pedal down very far. What on earth is going on or is this normal?!

Note that the RPM movement at the beginning of the video doesn't look like much but when doing it throughout the day today, it would move as much as ~300 RPMs up or down with the same pressure applied to the gas. And what the video doesn't really convey is the shaking when holding the pedal down, it feels like my car is lightly gasping/choking/shuddering. No problems with the RPMs at neutral but my car does shake randomly at idle. This is probably the reason why I can't balance the clutch and throttle and it feels different every time I engage/disengage.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/IV3MpsJyWvw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

I would give this a try and see if it doesn't help...

https://www.myg37.com/forums/3141577-post62.html

 

Thanks! I'll give this a try. When I took my car in for warranty work the dealership informed me that the pedals were replaced by the previous owner for some reason so they might have missed these learning steps.

Also do you recommend resetting the ECU via battery disconnect first or does the Idle Air Volume Relearning reset the ECU with steps 6-10?

 

It shouldn't be necessary to reset the ECU. If you can't get the relearn to work (and it may take several tries to get it right) I would probably just let the dealership figure it out since you are still under warranty. I had a similar issue with my old '02 altima, and had firestone clean the throttle body. That messed the idle up even worse and the relearn wouldn't work, I ended up replacing the throttle body and was then able to perform the relearn. After that it was back to normal. Firestone even gave me credit for the cost of the throttle body.

 

Thanks again but my car's warranty ended last month so I'm out of luck there. I do have a good independent I spent tons of money at so I'm sure they can help me out somehow. Crossing my fingers on the relearn!

 

In the Idle Air Volume Relearning instructions it mentions that the PNP Switch needs to be on (M/T - fully depress clutch). Do I need to push the clutch pedal all the way down and hold it during the entire process? Even during the ECU reset?

 

As I understand the instructions, yes. The ECU is reset by disconnecting the battery and leaving it though isn't it?

 

Sorry for the confusion but I was referring to the quick ECU reset method which is pretty similar to the Idle Air Volume Learning.

 

Just wanted to bump this in case anyone else has any ideas what is going on. Did the throttle body cleanings and re-learns and other than idling ever so slightly lower than before, nothing has changed... grrrr...