Carbon Fiber Driveshaft Group Buy??
No idea as of yet.
We have a pretty decent number of people on our Group Buy interest list.
We'll see which company gives us the better deal (PST and/or Powertrain Industries) and go from there.
I will be giving them a shout tomorrow and will keep you guys updated!
We have a pretty decent number of people on our Group Buy interest list.
We'll see which company gives us the better deal (PST and/or Powertrain Industries) and go from there.
I will be giving them a shout tomorrow and will keep you guys updated!
1. Bong1012 (2008 G37S coupe 6MT RWD)
2. dal1307 (2008 G37S Coupe 5AT)
3. Polar_g37s (2008 G37S Coupe 6MT)
4. Chi-City-G
5. Kevalteam (2008 G37 Coupe 5AT)
6. SharpByCoop (2008 G37 Coupe 5AT)
7. huwee06 (2009 G37 Coupe 6MT)
8. Elperuano (2008 G37 Coupe 6MT)
9. eksigned (2013 G37S Coupe 6MT)
10. thebiglubinsky (2013 G37S Sedan 7AT)
11. Jamesshifflett (2011 37 Sedan 7at)
12. WARAT (2008 G37S coupe 6MT)
13. G37Stampa(2009 G37 coupe 6MT)
14. Oreoleo (2009 G37S coupe 6MT)
15. Viper62382
16. infamousstunna1 (2008 G37S coupe 6MT)
17. Sewlman2 (08 G37S coupe 6MT)
2. dal1307 (2008 G37S Coupe 5AT)
3. Polar_g37s (2008 G37S Coupe 6MT)
4. Chi-City-G
5. Kevalteam (2008 G37 Coupe 5AT)
6. SharpByCoop (2008 G37 Coupe 5AT)
7. huwee06 (2009 G37 Coupe 6MT)
8. Elperuano (2008 G37 Coupe 6MT)
9. eksigned (2013 G37S Coupe 6MT)
10. thebiglubinsky (2013 G37S Sedan 7AT)
11. Jamesshifflett (2011 37 Sedan 7at)
12. WARAT (2008 G37S coupe 6MT)
13. G37Stampa(2009 G37 coupe 6MT)
14. Oreoleo (2009 G37S coupe 6MT)
15. Viper62382
16. infamousstunna1 (2008 G37S coupe 6MT)
17. Sewlman2 (08 G37S coupe 6MT)
Not to be a **** or anything, i know there may be some misinformed people on that group buy list, but just a heads up:
Aluminum Drive shaft is a better option, here's why:
1: Better impact resistance of aluminum vs cf: If you bottom out or hit something on the road or even pick up a rock or piece of debris and it hits the drive shaft, if aluminum it will put a ding/dent in it BUT if its CF, it will crack and will be structurally weaker and eventually break. All driveshafts twist to some degree when torque is applied. The resistance to this twist is measured as torsional spring rate. CF driveshafts have a torsional spring rate a little less than aluminum and about half that of steel.
2: Serviceablility, CF driveshafts are intended for RACE CARS/RACE APPLICATIONS ONLY because they need to be serviced OR replaced every couple of years, now if thats recommended for a race car application where its expected to be driven a couple times a year, think of the effects on a daily driver doing 8-15k miles a year.
If you guys are worried about weight savings, they weight savings between an aluminum drive shaft and carbon fiber driveshaft is fairly negligble, merely a couple pounds...You can easily make up the difference by removing your spare tire and replacing it with a can of fixaflat for 15$
Aluminum Drive shaft is a better option, here's why:
1: Better impact resistance of aluminum vs cf: If you bottom out or hit something on the road or even pick up a rock or piece of debris and it hits the drive shaft, if aluminum it will put a ding/dent in it BUT if its CF, it will crack and will be structurally weaker and eventually break. All driveshafts twist to some degree when torque is applied. The resistance to this twist is measured as torsional spring rate. CF driveshafts have a torsional spring rate a little less than aluminum and about half that of steel.
2: Serviceablility, CF driveshafts are intended for RACE CARS/RACE APPLICATIONS ONLY because they need to be serviced OR replaced every couple of years, now if thats recommended for a race car application where its expected to be driven a couple times a year, think of the effects on a daily driver doing 8-15k miles a year.
If you guys are worried about weight savings, they weight savings between an aluminum drive shaft and carbon fiber driveshaft is fairly negligble, merely a couple pounds...You can easily make up the difference by removing your spare tire and replacing it with a can of fixaflat for 15$
Technically, this is the way I look at it.
Aluminum DS. Saves weight. Frees up HP/torque. >$600
CF DS. Saves a little more weight. Frees up a minute amount more HP/torque. $1000+
The price difference/gain ratio just doesn't seem worth it to me.
I realize CF is cool to have, but if lilwizzer is correct (and I think he is), doesn't just the fact of chipping and weakening the CF DS scare the crap out of anyone besides me?
Aluminum DS. Saves weight. Frees up HP/torque. >$600
CF DS. Saves a little more weight. Frees up a minute amount more HP/torque. $1000+
The price difference/gain ratio just doesn't seem worth it to me.
I realize CF is cool to have, but if lilwizzer is correct (and I think he is), doesn't just the fact of chipping and weakening the CF DS scare the crap out of anyone besides me?
Technically, this is the way I look at it.
Aluminum DS. Saves weight. Frees up HP/torque. >$600
CF DS. Saves a little more weight. Frees up a minute amount more HP/torque. $1000+
The price difference/gain ratio just doesn't seem worth it to me.
I realize CF is cool to have, but if lilwizzer is correct (and I think he is), doesn't just the fact of chipping and weakening the CF DS scare the crap out of anyone besides me?
Aluminum DS. Saves weight. Frees up HP/torque. >$600
CF DS. Saves a little more weight. Frees up a minute amount more HP/torque. $1000+
The price difference/gain ratio just doesn't seem worth it to me.
I realize CF is cool to have, but if lilwizzer is correct (and I think he is), doesn't just the fact of chipping and weakening the CF DS scare the crap out of anyone besides me?
If it was to snap while driving:
-you would lose all power (if you were RWD) which means if youre in the middle of a pull your rpms will fly to redline and possibly cause engine damage, or if youre AWD, you will lose power to back wheels only and in both cases it may result in an accident which will then lead to more $$ and possibly lawsuits, and if found guilty you will be at fault for installing an aftermarket product that is not street legal.
-another thing is damage, if the driveshaft was to snap while driving you will trash the entire bottom of your car, possibly breaking fuel lines/emissions/frame damage etc....
I just dont think its practical for a daily driver, you're all better off with an aluminum driveshaft

-lilwizzer (lol)
2: Serviceablility, CF driveshafts are intended for RACE CARS/RACE APPLICATIONS ONLY because they need to be serviced OR replaced every couple of years, now if thats recommended for a race car application where its expected to be driven a couple times a year, think of the effects on a daily driver doing 8-15k miles a year.
Last edited by dal1307; Feb 19, 2013 at 02:52 PM.
I spoke to the company that was making the Z1 aluminum drive shaft .. The said the problem with aluminum is that people who pushed higher speeds 120 + are experiencing vibrations which can cause issues . In order for them to fix it they have to make it wider which they can't .. The CF Driveshaft comes into play at this point .. I will be going the CF route if its not to expensive ..
2: Serviceablility, CF driveshafts are intended for RACE CARS/RACE APPLICATIONS ONLY because they need to be serviced OR replaced every couple of years, now if thats recommended for a race car application where its expected to be driven a couple times a year, think of the effects on a daily driver doing 8-15k miles a year.
IE: Here's what you're doing...
Lol well to make things a lot easier and less typing and reading involved along with misguiding people...
If you're skeptical and negative towards Carbon Fiber driveshafts simply email PST, Powertrain Industries, or ACPT to get your answers. Then quote what the PROs say and paste them here for everyones knowledge.
If you're skeptical and negative towards Carbon Fiber driveshafts simply email PST, Powertrain Industries, or ACPT to get your answers. Then quote what the PROs say and paste them here for everyones knowledge.
Like we already know Carbon Fiber driveshafts is way more expensive than Aluminum driveshafts. This is the reason why we started this Group Buy to hopefully get a discount and NOT have to pay $1250+. There are other advantages that made me go the Carbon Fiber route if I were to upgrade my driveshaft.
1: Better impact resistance of aluminum vs cf: If you bottom out or hit something on the road or even pick up a rock or piece of debris and it hits the drive shaft, if aluminum it will put a ding/dent in it BUT if its CF, it will crack and will be structurally weaker and eventually break. All driveshafts twist to some degree when torque is applied. The resistance to this twist is measured as torsional spring rate. CF driveshafts have a torsional spring rate a little less than aluminum and about half that of steel.
2: Serviceablility, CF driveshafts are intended for RACE CARS/RACE APPLICATIONS ONLY because they need to be serviced OR replaced every couple of years, now if thats recommended for a race car application where its expected to be driven a couple times a year, think of the effects on a daily driver doing 8-15k miles a year.
2: Serviceablility, CF driveshafts are intended for RACE CARS/RACE APPLICATIONS ONLY because they need to be serviced OR replaced every couple of years, now if thats recommended for a race car application where its expected to be driven a couple times a year, think of the effects on a daily driver doing 8-15k miles a year.
From a engineering prospective a carbon drive shaft is almost a ideal component to to constructed out of carbon fiber because it has only one main source of force going into it (torque), thus you can use unidirectional carbon in the right orientation to create a component that is incredibly stiff.
2) Given the component is designed and manufacturing well the carbon fiber should last the life of the car. It does not rust/corrode . I well designed drive shaft will have much high safety factor then steel or aluminium.


