2 Piece design is mainly intended to negate whipping or awkward angles for long wheel base vehicles, if I remember correctly more than 60 inches = two piece time.

Aside from that it is used in BMW/Mercedes a lot to absorb vibration and shock to make the ride smoother (flex disks), I assume this is why Infiniti has done it as well mainly, I don't think the stock driveshaft is more than 60 inches but I could be wrong. The difference felt will be negligible, just like an intake some people will feel a boost and others won't feel different at all.

If the acceleration bump is what people are looking for the better bet would be to buy gears at near the same price. Install will be more obviously but it is a very pronounced difference.

 

I snapped a few pics of the OEM one I took out. I also have a few of the Z1 before I installed it. I may be able to post them tomorrow.

For those saying it won't make any appreciable gains, do you have one installed to reach this conclusion? Because I do and it makes a very significant improvement. Possibly that might be because its working in conjunction with my lightweight flywheel so it may be more pronounced than some wound think with both working together. It stands to reason that this would be the case. But I noticed the improvement in torque immediately when I installed it.

 

Is this driveshaft being communicated anywhere as being stronger than OEM?

 

thank you !

 

Its self explanitory...1 piece is more rigid than a 2 piece because it eliminates a U-joint which is typically a weak point in drive shafts.

 

I honestly don't know Sam. You're the engineer, you could figure it out if you had the the length, diameter, wall thickness, and specs of the metal of each one. The diameter of the one piece shaft is larger however the pipe wall is much thinner.

Do it Sam! Of course you would actually get some gain form it since you have a rocket ship now. The rest of us are just doing it to waste our money.

 

Yes I am also going to waste my money on it~ LOL

 

Better throw a Stage III TT with a built bottom end in there first or it's pretty much useless.

 

Still waiting for the pix. but it should be better if your boosting right?!? Well, i have a total of 3 ppl for the G35 2nd gen sedan. I called the dealer and they said it's 2 different part numbers but they can't see the difference between them.

 

i LIKEEEEE USEEELESS stuff on my G BB!


Did you call GTM? Im about to email, call them. wish they were still vendor on here....

 

Here's a few photos of the Z1 1 pc I took before installing it.






Here's some I snapped of the OEM one I removed.

 

Do you know the weight difference BB?
Looks lot lighter in the pics.

 

Did they include the rubber bushings with this? I have a huge one wrapped around my OEM that's failing. Any info greatly appreciated.

 

I didn't weight either one. I'm sure you could probably find the weight of the Z1 shaft somewhere on the forum or elsewhere on the net if you search. I'm not taking it out to weigh it. I will weigh the OEM one and post the weight when I get home if I remember.


Just so everyone is clear, this is the Z1 drive shaft, not the GTM one. Want to make sure everyone understands. I posted this just to give you an idea of what you are dealing with. It will be very similar. No, obviously no center bearing is included as it doesn't have a center U joint as the OEM one does so it isn't needed.

 

Why? I mean there's not point in getting one if you're not pushing 700+ HP and tracking it while its hydrolocked...right?


Meh.....I'll be right next to ya in line if the GB ever happens.....just so I can feel what it's like to not feel an improvement in acceleration or not get any additional HP.


And Jeremy......you should know a stage III turbo is a waste unless you're already pushing 600+ HP.