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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 12:55 AM
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willstophe
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slave cylinder

Hello everyone. I dont know if i spelled that right. Anyhow i just got through a debacle with tustin infiniti regarding my slave cylinder in my 2009 g coupe. I hear its a common problem among g/z cars. They recommended i replace both the slave and the master. I had them just do the slave and the car drives like it just came out of the factory. I did this because i talked to multiple sources who told me the dealership was trying to rig more money out of me. It started when my clutch pedal was sticking to the floor. Everything else was fine. The dealer tried to convince me to replace both the slave and the master. Were they trying to get more money out of me? Please give some enlightenment to me.

Cheers.
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 02:17 AM
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Do a search on here. There's several lengthy threads on the topic. In general, it is recommended to do both. Especially on a car with significant miles. On the other hand, the master is a whole lot easier and cheaper to replace than the slave. To increase the life of either/both, flush your clutch fluid at least once every 2 years or sooner.
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 01:35 PM
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This is funny (not really) because I just went through the exact same thing in my 08 coupe. I have another thread on here as well. The dealership ultimately replaced the Master cylinder. Like JSolo said...its cheaper for them. I would've preferred to have both done but...eh.
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 03:06 PM
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how much did the factory charge you to change out the slave cylinder? i just noticed this last night...i had to pop my clutch pedal back up because it was sticking to the floor.
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 03:22 PM
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They warranty my for free. Same thing happen to me one time and my clutch pedal was sticking to the floor.
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by smitty8930
how much did the factory charge you to change out the slave cylinder? i just noticed this last night...i had to pop my clutch pedal back up because it was sticking to the floor.
I paid 731 altogether for the part and labor.
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 04:21 PM
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^ if your car was still under the manufacture warranty you got ripped off. The slave cylinder isn't an wear and tear item like brake pads and clutch, that should've been covered by warranty.
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 05:22 PM
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He has an 08 its probably out already
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 07:06 PM
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first post says 09
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 04:07 PM
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is there any way you can get me a copy of your invoice from the dealer? they are tryin to charge me $990.

Originally Posted by willstophe
I paid 731 altogether for the part and labor.
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 09:20 PM
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I think mine is going kaput too.

Only 37,XXX miles. SMFH!

Shall I have both done?
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 12:28 AM
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what are some signs of it going bad? Im at 61k right now and just changed my clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. Am I looking at more expenses and does my 100,000 mile drive train warranty cover it?
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 01:14 AM
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Not absolutely necessary to replace both but it's best to do it if you can. If you replace clutch or flywheel it's crazy not to at least replace slave while the transmission is dropped. Because I can tell you that if you don't you'll be paying 5+ hours of labor to drop it again when the slave dies. Master is cheaper and takes less labor to replace. Don't be cheap. If one is dying, replace both. How are you going to be 100% certain which one is causing the problem?
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 01:57 AM
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Guys i think my slave or master might be starting to cause me problems. I cant shift quickly from first to second or sometimes even third anymore. It feels like even with the clutch pressed all the way to the floor it grinds just moving the shifter. Then when i shift to third quickly sometimes the clutch will slip for about 1/4-1/2 a second before the rpms drop a bit and it fully engages. Are these early warning signs? I only have like 9000 miles so I highly doubt the clutch is worn out.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 11:05 AM
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I think an obvious sign would be the pressure needed to depress the pedal changing. That is, pedal stays soft longer before building up pressure - engagement point changing too. The latter is harder to quantify unless the change is substantial and overnight. Otherwise you get used to it and difficult to notice.

Once the CSC starts leaking, it's just a matter of pedal strokes until the reservoir is run dry. So if you notice it happening, try using the clutch less and/or move to a safe area for tow. The reservoir is relatively small, holding several ounces at most (probably 2-3 shot glasses).
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