My car is a 2008 G37s coupe 6mt.

So today i was backing up my sloped driveway, and all of a sudden my gas pedal just stopped working.. It became non-responsive. I'd floor it and the rpm just stayed at idle 1000. I turned the car on/off, then the gas pedal worked again, but now I have a check engine light. Anybody have any idea what's going on?

 

What's the DTC that was set? I bet it's something tps related.

 

Going to take it to the dealer Saturday to find out.. Kind of dangerous though. Hope my gas pedal malfunction tomorrow.

 

I've been having similar issues with my 08 coupe 6mt. I always take off at low rpm's like 1k and I know this engine has no low end torque but recently once I engave the clutch and if I floor it, it wouldnt budge for like 3 seconds and then slowly gets to about 3,500 and then takes off like its supposto. I know the clutch isn't slipping and the engine wouldn't even make much noise in that period. I am scheduled on monday at the dealer so I'll see what happens

 

My car did something similar today. I was backing out of a spot then put it in first and went to go an the car stalled out. I restarted the car and the idle was high, 1100rpm, and it seemed unresponsive to the gas and it barely got out of first and there was a 2500 rpm rev limiter. Strange. Shut off for a moment or two then restarted and was fine.

 

So what were y'alls problems?

 

Im having the same issue. Replaced both throttle bodies & issue went away for a few months. But now the issue is back so im not sure what it is. Did anyone ever find out what it is?

 

I Necro'd this thread, as I am having same issue. Gas pedal no response in D, only in N and P. Jsolo you've been helpful over the years....any ideas? Nobody posted a reason/solution.

 

With a manual car when you give it throttle, engine revs up but no go is usually an indicator of worn clutch. With an AT, no idea. Car needs to be properly scoped to see what parameters are not reporting within range.

 

Turns out it was the alternator, 2nd one in about 13 months. Anyway, new alternator problem solved.

 

@ChefMatt
Out of curiosity, do you have any electrical mods done to the car? Alternators are pretty robust units and for you to burn through two in about a year is highly unusual.

Glad it was a 'relatively' easy fix. Thanks for the update.

 

I was running a Stillen grounding cable but removed it before the first alternator went out last year. I didn't put it back on with either of new alternators (both Denso remans). The only powered mods I have are a Pedal commander, and a rearview mirror USB port to power dashcam and radar detector. Both of those power off on shutdown.

 

Hmmm... Interesting. Thanks for the info and hopefully this will solve that problem once and for all!

 

I’m having the same problem now , alt reads 13 and drops when the car is idle, gas pedal is not responding when on D after driving for some time but works fine on P and N and the DTC shows gear incorrect ratio on 5th gear and the other one is not specified. Any ideas?? When i turn it off and on again it works fine and then the problem happen again.

 

Funny thing is I'm dealing with something similar.
Had a throttle code
P2101 Electronic Throttle Control Function
P1226 Closed throttle function
P1235 Closed throttle function

Did a throttle pedal dance, developed a
P010B Throttle -“Mass or Volume Air Flow “B” Circuit Range/Performance.

Changed MAFs due to one reading .20v off

Switched TBs, entered high idle, pedal dance gave me a smooth idle again however it still feels slow. Like many here I an extremely slow acceleration which goes away after 3500RPMs. From that point it revs up but not "tire breaking pull" like it should.

Have not driven it since, it does have broken flex pipes with a decent exhaust leak but after AF and O2 sensors.