Aftermarket Clutch/Flywheels
10-28-2010, 12:47 AM
#31
You should really add the South Bend kits to your list, These are High quality kits, They use the "best" linings available and have killer customer service.
I have been selling these kits for over 7 years and have used/tested every last one of them in my own personal Z32 Twin Turbo. They absolutely rock!
CM are good kits but overpriced IMHO.
JWT kits use stock clutch linings and a lightly yet poorly upgraded pressure plate.
About the chatter noise in the trans with a light weight flywheel, This is caused by removing the dual mass flywheel, What you are actually hearing is the pulses of the engine firing which in turn makes the gears rattle in the trans, Every time a cylinder fires it causes a "pulse" if you remove the dampener (Dual mass fly) these pulses are transferred into the trans gear set. These "pulses" are more prominent in newer, higher compression cars which produce these higher frequencies through the drive train. The DMF dampens the noise and basically makes the car quieter and smoother.
I am looking into being a sponsor here as I am on My350Z but have not heard back from them yet. Keep an eye out
I have been selling these kits for over 7 years and have used/tested every last one of them in my own personal Z32 Twin Turbo. They absolutely rock!
CM are good kits but overpriced IMHO.
JWT kits use stock clutch linings and a lightly yet poorly upgraded pressure plate.
About the chatter noise in the trans with a light weight flywheel, This is caused by removing the dual mass flywheel, What you are actually hearing is the pulses of the engine firing which in turn makes the gears rattle in the trans, Every time a cylinder fires it causes a "pulse" if you remove the dampener (Dual mass fly) these pulses are transferred into the trans gear set. These "pulses" are more prominent in newer, higher compression cars which produce these higher frequencies through the drive train. The DMF dampens the noise and basically makes the car quieter and smoother.
I am looking into being a sponsor here as I am on My350Z but have not heard back from them yet. Keep an eye out
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Preslee (12-29-2018)
11-09-2010, 06:43 PM
#32
South Bend Clutch
Thanks SpdRacer for the south bend clutch info on your site. zspeedperformance.com. Whats the deal with the slave cylinders. You have to upgrade these with the south bend clutch kits?
12-02-2010, 06:07 AM
#34
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This was also forwarded from Ben at JWT. Thought it was good reading. The link to the online build article is below! Thanks Ben and JWT!
"In a quest for smooth, quiet drivetrains that are strong enough to take relentless abuse, Nissan has adopted dual-mass flywheels on all (both) its new engines. Big, strong gearboxes like the one in the 350Z/G35 tend to rattle and groan like a UPS truck at low rpm. The noise comes from torsional vibrations originating from the surge of individual power strokes. A dual-mass flywheel separates the crankshaft and clutch sides of the flywheel by a set of springs. Using the power of math, Nissan engineers chose appropriate spring rates and flywheel mass to damp out these vibrations, making the gearbox smooth and quiet and eliminating complaints from those who would whine about funny noises.
Unfortunately, that math also shows Nissan engineers the Z/G35 flywheel has to be 25.5 pounds to damp things properly. That doesn't seem overly heavy when a quick a quick zing of the throttle unleashes 274 lb-ft of torque, but when we replaced that 25 pounds with 14 pounds of Jim Wolf aluminum flywheel, we were amazed what we had been missing.
Free-revving in neutral is just silly now. The lighter flywheel frees horsepower once used for accelerating its 25 pounds. In high gears, the difference is negligible, but in first and second gear, where each mile per hour means more revolutions of that 25-pound flywheel, the difference is surprising. Hard-driving fast shifts are now easier and smoother, but cruising around, revs actually drop so quickly between shifts that lazy gearwork makes you drive like a clutch monkey.
The gearbox does indeed make noises now. At idle and accelerating hard below 2000 rpm, you would think something was wrong if you didn't know better, but since you put the flywheel in, you understand the noises. Above 2000 rpm, the gearbox is silent. The noise shouldn't translate into accelerated wear, by the way, it just sounds like it does."
Project Nissan 350Z - JWT Clutch - Sport Compact Magazine
"In a quest for smooth, quiet drivetrains that are strong enough to take relentless abuse, Nissan has adopted dual-mass flywheels on all (both) its new engines. Big, strong gearboxes like the one in the 350Z/G35 tend to rattle and groan like a UPS truck at low rpm. The noise comes from torsional vibrations originating from the surge of individual power strokes. A dual-mass flywheel separates the crankshaft and clutch sides of the flywheel by a set of springs. Using the power of math, Nissan engineers chose appropriate spring rates and flywheel mass to damp out these vibrations, making the gearbox smooth and quiet and eliminating complaints from those who would whine about funny noises.
Unfortunately, that math also shows Nissan engineers the Z/G35 flywheel has to be 25.5 pounds to damp things properly. That doesn't seem overly heavy when a quick a quick zing of the throttle unleashes 274 lb-ft of torque, but when we replaced that 25 pounds with 14 pounds of Jim Wolf aluminum flywheel, we were amazed what we had been missing.
Free-revving in neutral is just silly now. The lighter flywheel frees horsepower once used for accelerating its 25 pounds. In high gears, the difference is negligible, but in first and second gear, where each mile per hour means more revolutions of that 25-pound flywheel, the difference is surprising. Hard-driving fast shifts are now easier and smoother, but cruising around, revs actually drop so quickly between shifts that lazy gearwork makes you drive like a clutch monkey.
The gearbox does indeed make noises now. At idle and accelerating hard below 2000 rpm, you would think something was wrong if you didn't know better, but since you put the flywheel in, you understand the noises. Above 2000 rpm, the gearbox is silent. The noise shouldn't translate into accelerated wear, by the way, it just sounds like it does."
Project Nissan 350Z - JWT Clutch - Sport Compact Magazine
A longer and more technical explanation of what they call clutch "chatter" when using a single mass flywheel.
12-02-2010, 10:19 AM
#35
Registered User
I have an OS giken with a soild flywheel and was getting chatter at idle and low rpms. I replaced the MT tranny fluid with a mix of Redline MT-90 and Redline 75W140NS gear oil (per thier reccomendation) and the chatter is gone. Shifting is still smooth even when cold even with the higher viscosity fluid in there.
For anyone is annoyed by the chatter after a solid mass flywheel install, this will cure it.
For anyone is annoyed by the chatter after a solid mass flywheel install, this will cure it.
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Mickael Lardet (03-24-2024)
12-03-2010, 09:49 PM
#36
I have an OS giken with a soild flywheel and was getting chatter at idle and low rpms. I replaced the MT tranny fluid with a mix of Redline MT-90 and Redline 75W140NS gear oil (per thier reccomendation) and the chatter is gone. Shifting is still smooth even when cold even with the higher viscosity fluid in there.
For anyone is annoyed by the chatter after a solid mass flywheel install, this will cure it.
For anyone is annoyed by the chatter after a solid mass flywheel install, this will cure it.
12-03-2010, 11:07 PM
#38
Registered User
12-04-2010, 09:23 PM
#40
I have some chatter, maybe this will make it hush hush. Ill see what my mechanic thinks and possibly try it out , thanks for the info.
I have an OS giken with a soild flywheel and was getting chatter at idle and low rpms. I replaced the MT tranny fluid with a mix of Redline MT-90 and Redline 75W140NS gear oil (per thier reccomendation) and the chatter is gone. Shifting is still smooth even when cold even with the higher viscosity fluid in there.
For anyone is annoyed by the chatter after a solid mass flywheel install, this will cure it.
For anyone is annoyed by the chatter after a solid mass flywheel install, this will cure it.
12-05-2010, 12:48 PM
#41
Registered User
12-12-2010, 09:46 PM
#42
I am loving this thread lol. I am learning a lot more than I knew. I am also considering to change my clutch combo. I hate the original one and all the problems it comes with. I am going to the dealer for the clutch problems and see what happens. If all goes well then Ill just wait until the newer one needs changing, if not I'll just change the whole thing with a better one. I would also consider changing this part http://www.zspeedperformance.com/images/101_4375.jpg. Any inputs on this?
12-13-2010, 07:46 PM
#43
Ok So you asked for it.....
So while we are talking about all things transmission related here is some info on the Clutch Slave Cylinder (what the heck that is for all of those who didn't know, of which I am one!!) as well as some pics of the schematics and mentioned product installed. Also added this part to the part list.ENJOY!!
What is a clutch slave cylinder?
A clutch slave cylinder is a device used in the hydraulic clutch system, this item is mounted in the transmission, either on the outside, or in the inside.
If it is mounted on the outside, it is usually attached to the manual transmission by two bolts, the clutch slave cylinder has a rod that extends out every time hydraulic pressure is applied to it by the clutch master cylinder ( you operate this part every time you push on the clutch pedal). The rod that extends out makes contact with the clutch fork, in this design the clutch fork is the one who activates the clutch pressure plate.
****THIS IS THE SETUP IN OUR CARS*****In an internal clutch slave cylinder design, the clutch slave cylinder and clutch release bearing are one unit, this unit slides in the input shaft of the manual transmission and is held by two or three bolts that attach the unit to the front of the transmission ( inside the bellhousing). By being a single unit, the need of a clutch fork is eliminated.
What are the symptoms of a bad clutch slave cylinder?
Usually when you have a bad clutch slave cylinder you know it right away, because since it is a hydraulic part, once a seal inside the slave cylinder gets bad, it will start leaking fluid, at the same time, because the seal is not sealing properly, it will allow air inside the system, causing your clutch pedal to feel soft and spongy.
When a clutch pedal feels that way, it is an indication of air in the system, and when this happens, it makes it hard to operate the clutch properly because it engages even with your foot almost all the way to the floor, at times you may not even be able to place your car or truck in gear due to this problem.
Clutch slave cylinder
G37-TECH - The Infiniti G37 Information Resource
What is a clutch slave cylinder?
A clutch slave cylinder is a device used in the hydraulic clutch system, this item is mounted in the transmission, either on the outside, or in the inside.
If it is mounted on the outside, it is usually attached to the manual transmission by two bolts, the clutch slave cylinder has a rod that extends out every time hydraulic pressure is applied to it by the clutch master cylinder ( you operate this part every time you push on the clutch pedal). The rod that extends out makes contact with the clutch fork, in this design the clutch fork is the one who activates the clutch pressure plate.
****THIS IS THE SETUP IN OUR CARS*****In an internal clutch slave cylinder design, the clutch slave cylinder and clutch release bearing are one unit, this unit slides in the input shaft of the manual transmission and is held by two or three bolts that attach the unit to the front of the transmission ( inside the bellhousing). By being a single unit, the need of a clutch fork is eliminated.
What are the symptoms of a bad clutch slave cylinder?
Usually when you have a bad clutch slave cylinder you know it right away, because since it is a hydraulic part, once a seal inside the slave cylinder gets bad, it will start leaking fluid, at the same time, because the seal is not sealing properly, it will allow air inside the system, causing your clutch pedal to feel soft and spongy.
When a clutch pedal feels that way, it is an indication of air in the system, and when this happens, it makes it hard to operate the clutch properly because it engages even with your foot almost all the way to the floor, at times you may not even be able to place your car or truck in gear due to this problem.
Clutch slave cylinder
G37-TECH - The Infiniti G37 Information Resource
Last edited by usndocgreen; 12-13-2010 at 07:48 PM. Reason: bad link
12-13-2010, 07:58 PM
#44
Zspeed Info
Here is what Zspeed says about their Aftermarket replacement/upgrade. They say this will warranty the slave for 90 days and the clutch for a year if you buy it with a Soutbend clutch. See the 350Z forum link below if your interested in that.
South Bend Clutch And ZSpeed HD CSC Kits for HR and VHR's ready! No More CSC FAIL - MY350Z.COM Forums
Instead of modifying the Stock OEM plastic concentric slave cylinder that have known issues we decided to use a much better designed, heavier duty slave cylinder in our new kits.
The kits come complete with everything you need to install, No other parts are needed other than a couple jars of FRESH SEALED CONTAINERS of Dot 3/4 brake fluid.
It will be necessary to modify the front cover of the transmission slightly in order to fit the bigger, heavier duty slave cylinder into the transmission housing. This takes about 10 minutes and is pretty simple to do. All instructions are included with the kit or will be e-mailed to you in PDF format.
The ZSpeed heavy duty slave cylinder kit features all metal/aluminum construction, Floating internal seal (better than stationary that is used in the OEM Slave) All stainless fluid hoses that delete the stock rubber hose by your exhaust.
350z 370z heavy duty CSC Concentic clutch slave cylinder
South Bend Clutch And ZSpeed HD CSC Kits for HR and VHR's ready! No More CSC FAIL - MY350Z.COM Forums
Instead of modifying the Stock OEM plastic concentric slave cylinder that have known issues we decided to use a much better designed, heavier duty slave cylinder in our new kits.
The kits come complete with everything you need to install, No other parts are needed other than a couple jars of FRESH SEALED CONTAINERS of Dot 3/4 brake fluid.
It will be necessary to modify the front cover of the transmission slightly in order to fit the bigger, heavier duty slave cylinder into the transmission housing. This takes about 10 minutes and is pretty simple to do. All instructions are included with the kit or will be e-mailed to you in PDF format.
The ZSpeed heavy duty slave cylinder kit features all metal/aluminum construction, Floating internal seal (better than stationary that is used in the OEM Slave) All stainless fluid hoses that delete the stock rubber hose by your exhaust.
350z 370z heavy duty CSC Concentic clutch slave cylinder
12-17-2010, 12:56 PM
#45
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To give an update on my JWT clutch kit which I had installed 6 months ago, I've recently started to get plate rattle while accelerating. Loudness of the noise varies depending on outside temperature. I don't get the noise all the time, but often enough to where I can predict it. If I hold down the clutch petal just slightly the noise goes away.
I have a friend with a Z350 who had same clutch and he received the same noise (started after a year) and eventually complete clutch failure. I figure it's only a matter a time before the clutch fails on me and if not that the noise will certainly get on my nerves ...I need to start saving for a new clutch.
So I'm thinking OS Giken ...I don't think the clutch chatter noise (or should I say "trany chatter") could be any worse then with the JWT. However, I would like to hear from more of you who use this clutch and what your experiences are with it, otherwise what would you recommend?
End note, I do not recommend the JWT clutch for the G37!
___________
08 G37s 6MT
I have a friend with a Z350 who had same clutch and he received the same noise (started after a year) and eventually complete clutch failure. I figure it's only a matter a time before the clutch fails on me and if not that the noise will certainly get on my nerves ...I need to start saving for a new clutch.
So I'm thinking OS Giken ...I don't think the clutch chatter noise (or should I say "trany chatter") could be any worse then with the JWT. However, I would like to hear from more of you who use this clutch and what your experiences are with it, otherwise what would you recommend?
End note, I do not recommend the JWT clutch for the G37!
___________
08 G37s 6MT