VQ35 vs VQ37 Strength of Internals Comparison
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VQ35 vs VQ37 Strength of Internals Comparison
I've been trying to do as much research as possible on how the older VQ engines hold up to under less than 10psi of boost as well as the internal differences between the VQ35 and the VQ37VHR. From what I gather the VQ37's make much more power per psi of boost but I can't find any internal engine specs comparison between the two. (Strength, Rigidity, Forged, ect). It seems as if I read somewhere that the VQ37VHR is stronger internally but I can't find that article anymore.
I'm really on the fence about getting the Stillen supercharger kit but I want to do my homework first as I pay about a $600 car note monthly on my G and I need it to last
!
If anybody has some good links or some information they can share about any of the topics I touched on above, that would be great! Thanks.
I'm really on the fence about getting the Stillen supercharger kit but I want to do my homework first as I pay about a $600 car note monthly on my G and I need it to last
! If anybody has some good links or some information they can share about any of the topics I touched on above, that would be great! Thanks.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...k-testing.html
Check out that thread. That's the only sort of comparison I have seen on the VQ37VHR with VQ35DE.
Check out that thread. That's the only sort of comparison I have seen on the VQ37VHR with VQ35DE.
I've been trying to do as much research as possible on how the older VQ engines hold up to under less than 10psi of boost as well as the internal differences between the VQ35 and the VQ37VHR. From what I gather the VQ37's make much more power per psi of boost but I can't find any internal engine specs comparison between the two. (Strength, Rigidity, Forged, ect). It seems as if I read somewhere that the VQ37VHR is stronger internally but I can't find that article anymore.
I'm really on the fence about getting the Stillen supercharger kit but I want to do my homework first as I pay about a $600 car note monthly on my G and I need it to last!
If anybody has some good links or some information they can share about any of the topics I touched on above, that would be great! Thanks.
I'm really on the fence about getting the Stillen supercharger kit but I want to do my homework first as I pay about a $600 car note monthly on my G and I need it to last
! If anybody has some good links or some information they can share about any of the topics I touched on above, that would be great! Thanks.
Additionally, if you're going FI, you should set aside enough money for an "oh ****" fund, because things WILL happen.
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From what we can gather the VQ37 can handle more power/boost than the VQ35.
With that being said, when anyone makes forced induction a consideration there should be other considerations made at the same time.
1) What is the intended use for the vehicle?
For some people, we will be the first ones to tell you not to go forced induction. For example, Travisjb over at the370z and I were talking about his uses for his Z. He told me that in the class he plans on racing in he can only make around 340-350 wheel horsepower. I told him that doing a supercharger would be kind of pointless considering he could get to 320-330 with simple bolt ons and a tune and to gain another 10-20 horsepower with a 6K investment would be kind of a waste of money in my opinion.
Along those same lines...When do you actually plan on using 500 horsepower? If you don't plan on going to the race track, chances are you will never use all 500 horsepower. If you only want to stretch the legs of your car every now and then on long fast open roads you might be surprised how enjoyable 400-450 wheel horsepower can be...If you plan on using your car in tight twisty canyon roads, again, 500 horsepower will more than likely be overkill and not to mention, you might have a hard time putting that power to the ground due to loss of traction...
2) Are my goals realistic?
I have seen some people say that all they want is 500+ wheel horsepower with stock internals and for the engine to last 200,000 miles...In my opinion, that is completely unrealistic.
Keep in mind that these engines make around 270 horsepower at the wheels...500 wheel horsepower is nearly DOUBLE the factory power output. That's just not a realistic expectation out of the stock internals. Don't get me wrong, 500 horsepower can be produced and it will last a little while...But, don't expect to get 200,000 miles out of the engine unless you never plan on getting into full boost.
3) What type of fuel am I willing to run? Reaching 500 wheel horsepower becomes increasingly more possible and safer as you run higher grade fuel. However, do you really want to spend $6.00-$8.00 a gallon for 200,000 miles just so you can have that 500 horsepower?
With that being said, when anyone makes forced induction a consideration there should be other considerations made at the same time.
1) What is the intended use for the vehicle?
For some people, we will be the first ones to tell you not to go forced induction. For example, Travisjb over at the370z and I were talking about his uses for his Z. He told me that in the class he plans on racing in he can only make around 340-350 wheel horsepower. I told him that doing a supercharger would be kind of pointless considering he could get to 320-330 with simple bolt ons and a tune and to gain another 10-20 horsepower with a 6K investment would be kind of a waste of money in my opinion.
Along those same lines...When do you actually plan on using 500 horsepower? If you don't plan on going to the race track, chances are you will never use all 500 horsepower. If you only want to stretch the legs of your car every now and then on long fast open roads you might be surprised how enjoyable 400-450 wheel horsepower can be...If you plan on using your car in tight twisty canyon roads, again, 500 horsepower will more than likely be overkill and not to mention, you might have a hard time putting that power to the ground due to loss of traction...
2) Are my goals realistic?
I have seen some people say that all they want is 500+ wheel horsepower with stock internals and for the engine to last 200,000 miles...In my opinion, that is completely unrealistic.
Keep in mind that these engines make around 270 horsepower at the wheels...500 wheel horsepower is nearly DOUBLE the factory power output. That's just not a realistic expectation out of the stock internals. Don't get me wrong, 500 horsepower can be produced and it will last a little while...But, don't expect to get 200,000 miles out of the engine unless you never plan on getting into full boost.
3) What type of fuel am I willing to run? Reaching 500 wheel horsepower becomes increasingly more possible and safer as you run higher grade fuel. However, do you really want to spend $6.00-$8.00 a gallon for 200,000 miles just so you can have that 500 horsepower?
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what would be the first thing expected to go on an HR/VHR with boost? Would adding forged rods and pistons with slightly lower CR help make it past 100+K miles or is a full build necessary for the engine to last a long time?
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From what we can gather the VQ37 can handle more power/boost than the VQ35.
With that being said, when anyone makes forced induction a consideration there should be other considerations made at the same time.
1) What is the intended use for the vehicle?
For some people, we will be the first ones to tell you not to go forced induction. For example, Travisjb over at the370z and I were talking about his uses for his Z. He told me that in the class he plans on racing in he can only make around 340-350 wheel horsepower. I told him that doing a supercharger would be kind of pointless considering he could get to 320-330 with simple bolt ons and a tune and to gain another 10-20 horsepower with a 6K investment would be kind of a waste of money in my opinion.
Along those same lines...When do you actually plan on using 500 horsepower? If you don't plan on going to the race track, chances are you will never use all 500 horsepower. If you only want to stretch the legs of your car every now and then on long fast open roads you might be surprised how enjoyable 400-450 wheel horsepower can be...If you plan on using your car in tight twisty canyon roads, again, 500 horsepower will more than likely be overkill and not to mention, you might have a hard time putting that power to the ground due to loss of traction...
2) Are my goals realistic?
I have seen some people say that all they want is 500+ wheel horsepower with stock internals and for the engine to last 200,000 miles...In my opinion, that is completely unrealistic.
Keep in mind that these engines make around 270 horsepower at the wheels...500 wheel horsepower is nearly DOUBLE the factory power output. That's just not a realistic expectation out of the stock internals. Don't get me wrong, 500 horsepower can be produced and it will last a little while...But, don't expect to get 200,000 miles out of the engine unless you never plan on getting into full boost.
3) What type of fuel am I willing to run? Reaching 500 wheel horsepower becomes increasingly more possible and safer as you run higher grade fuel. However, do you really want to spend $6.00-$8.00 a gallon for 200,000 miles just so you can have that 500 horsepower?
With that being said, when anyone makes forced induction a consideration there should be other considerations made at the same time.
1) What is the intended use for the vehicle?
For some people, we will be the first ones to tell you not to go forced induction. For example, Travisjb over at the370z and I were talking about his uses for his Z. He told me that in the class he plans on racing in he can only make around 340-350 wheel horsepower. I told him that doing a supercharger would be kind of pointless considering he could get to 320-330 with simple bolt ons and a tune and to gain another 10-20 horsepower with a 6K investment would be kind of a waste of money in my opinion.
Along those same lines...When do you actually plan on using 500 horsepower? If you don't plan on going to the race track, chances are you will never use all 500 horsepower. If you only want to stretch the legs of your car every now and then on long fast open roads you might be surprised how enjoyable 400-450 wheel horsepower can be...If you plan on using your car in tight twisty canyon roads, again, 500 horsepower will more than likely be overkill and not to mention, you might have a hard time putting that power to the ground due to loss of traction...
2) Are my goals realistic?
I have seen some people say that all they want is 500+ wheel horsepower with stock internals and for the engine to last 200,000 miles...In my opinion, that is completely unrealistic.
Keep in mind that these engines make around 270 horsepower at the wheels...500 wheel horsepower is nearly DOUBLE the factory power output. That's just not a realistic expectation out of the stock internals. Don't get me wrong, 500 horsepower can be produced and it will last a little while...But, don't expect to get 200,000 miles out of the engine unless you never plan on getting into full boost.
3) What type of fuel am I willing to run? Reaching 500 wheel horsepower becomes increasingly more possible and safer as you run higher grade fuel. However, do you really want to spend $6.00-$8.00 a gallon for 200,000 miles just so you can have that 500 horsepower?
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These pictures speak for themselves: Rods: HR, VHR, DE.
The bottom end of the HR & VHR is alot more stout then the DE block.
VHR & HR block
DE block
VHR & HR block
The bottom end of the HR & VHR is alot more stout then the DE block.
VHR & HR block
DE block
VHR & HR block
Last edited by PennywiseG35S; Jun 14, 2010 at 07:04 PM.
SR20 compression and VQ37 compression are totally different.
That being said, it's all in the tune...
Keep in mind, cooling is a huge issue with the VQ37VHR. If budget were not a concern, I'd go as far as putting a VQ35HR top end on a VQ37 and run a full standalone capable of individual cylinder management
That being said, it's all in the tune...
Keep in mind, cooling is a huge issue with the VQ37VHR. If budget were not a concern, I'd go as far as putting a VQ35HR top end on a VQ37 and run a full standalone capable of individual cylinder management
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I think it's a little silly to say you shouldn't mod a car you don't own as I'm sure the majority of people on this forum do not own their car outright and have mods. That is of course if you leave yourself some kind of loophole. That being said, I have a 1989 Nissan 240sx in ridiculously mint shape (Check my garage on myg37) that I will be parting out to fund this operation. Selling everything I have off of the car at wholesale prices still nets me anywhere from 15 to 17k. That is plenty to fund my project and keep a little in the "Oh Sh$t" fund, wouldn't you say? And, If I don't go boost happy, what will happen? I'm sure replacing a belt here or there, or maybe fine tuning, but in all my years of boosted cars MOST of them blow up from too much boost or improper tuning. 8psi should be a cake for this motor with high octane gasoline.
Kyle, thanks for your reply. I'm VERY familiar with 400+whp (On a mustang dyno) and I know what I'm getting into. I don't have crazy unrealistic goals for this motor but I do believe that with a good tune, only run 8psi and change the oil every 5k with synthetic, I expect at least 100K out of the engine. 7.9 psi is not a lot of boost for 3.7L and 6 cylinders. I run 20 to 21 PSI ALL DAY on my stock (Other than cams and a Head gasket) SR20DET motor that I got from a Junkyard and I've had zero problems in 3 years after multiple trips to the drag strip, beating on it, ect. IMO, it's all in the Tune and maintenance. Do you think my engine longevity quote is possible?? If I get the Kit from you guys I will have my tuner that tunes my 240 make me a tune for 93 octane just as an extra safety precaution for the motor.
Kyle, thanks for your reply. I'm VERY familiar with 400+whp (On a mustang dyno) and I know what I'm getting into. I don't have crazy unrealistic goals for this motor but I do believe that with a good tune, only run 8psi and change the oil every 5k with synthetic, I expect at least 100K out of the engine. 7.9 psi is not a lot of boost for 3.7L and 6 cylinders. I run 20 to 21 PSI ALL DAY on my stock (Other than cams and a Head gasket) SR20DET motor that I got from a Junkyard and I've had zero problems in 3 years after multiple trips to the drag strip, beating on it, ect. IMO, it's all in the Tune and maintenance. Do you think my engine longevity quote is possible?? If I get the Kit from you guys I will have my tuner that tunes my 240 make me a tune for 93 octane just as an extra safety precaution for the motor.
Obviously I know that you know that 20 psi is unrealistic on a stock 370Z block but some people don't and I try to write everything to give everyone answers, not just the person I'm quoting.
In my opinion, just like you said, 8 psi is a good target for a safe power level that will go for a long time with a good tune and regular maintanence
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If someone wanted to go above 8 psi I would start recommending upgraded internals.
Realistically, I don't see any reason why these cars can't go well over 100K miles with superchargers or turbo kits...It all depends on boost, tuning, and regular maintenance.
If someone wanted to go over 8 psi and wanted to start pushing more power, I would start recommending forged, redesigned pistons, maybe thicker rods depending on expected power levels...It really just depends on what the customer wants.
