GTM Performance Engineering Stage 1 Turn key Supercharger kit In house Install
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 48
Likes: 2
From: Jupiter Florida
Ok, new to this forum, new to an 08 G37S Coupe, and I love both.
I come from a storied background in Mustangs, having owned and built a highly modified 93 Cobra with one of the first Prochargers on it at the time, and an 03 Cobra. Suffice as to say I'm pretty up to date with supercharging.
I have read this entire post and give props to Shumby for taking the plunge and [finally] getting a great running FI car. Sounds like GTM has got it going on.
Now my question.
Before the install, you had a pretty efficient NA car, with CAI, and a great exhaust, replete with LTH's. Following install of the supercharger, you were disappointed wiht both the boost, and I presume RWHP. Then you removed the LTH's to get RWHP, and by definition Boost, back.
So this is where I am lost. Boost is merely a representation of RESISTANCE to forward flow [through the engine]. WHY would you replace the stock exhaust to improve boost? We all know that it will, and we see indeed that it was, but wouldn't it have been better to step up the pulley size? The reason the boost was so low was that the volumetric efficiency of the motor was great. Increasing the boost through such an efficient system would have the secondary effect of providing you with even MORE HP, no?...Matching the correct boost to the exhaust is ideal. Stepping up to the next pulley size (8# I think...?) would have made more EFFICIENT hp, IMO. Of course this suggestion is predicated oin the idea of making sure your fuel delivery is up to it.
Anyways, maybe GTM can chime in?
While reading this thread to the point of seeing only 4 pounds delivered boost, I thought, OK, just step up the pulley...then...they removed LTH's...
Not trying to offend. Again, nice job on the final product.
I come from a storied background in Mustangs, having owned and built a highly modified 93 Cobra with one of the first Prochargers on it at the time, and an 03 Cobra. Suffice as to say I'm pretty up to date with supercharging.
I have read this entire post and give props to Shumby for taking the plunge and [finally] getting a great running FI car. Sounds like GTM has got it going on.
Now my question.
Before the install, you had a pretty efficient NA car, with CAI, and a great exhaust, replete with LTH's. Following install of the supercharger, you were disappointed wiht both the boost, and I presume RWHP. Then you removed the LTH's to get RWHP, and by definition Boost, back.
So this is where I am lost. Boost is merely a representation of RESISTANCE to forward flow [through the engine]. WHY would you replace the stock exhaust to improve boost? We all know that it will, and we see indeed that it was, but wouldn't it have been better to step up the pulley size? The reason the boost was so low was that the volumetric efficiency of the motor was great. Increasing the boost through such an efficient system would have the secondary effect of providing you with even MORE HP, no?...Matching the correct boost to the exhaust is ideal. Stepping up to the next pulley size (8# I think...?) would have made more EFFICIENT hp, IMO. Of course this suggestion is predicated oin the idea of making sure your fuel delivery is up to it.
Anyways, maybe GTM can chime in?
While reading this thread to the point of seeing only 4 pounds delivered boost, I thought, OK, just step up the pulley...then...they removed LTH's...
Not trying to offend. Again, nice job on the final product.
Ok, new to this forum, new to an 08 G37S Coupe, and I love both.
I come from a storied background in Mustangs, having owned and built a highly modified 93 Cobra with one of the first Prochargers on it at the time, and an 03 Cobra. Suffice as to say I'm pretty up to date with supercharging.
I have read this entire post and give props to Shumby for taking the plunge and [finally] getting a great running FI car. Sounds like GTM has got it going on.
Now my question.
Before the install, you had a pretty efficient NA car, with CAI, and a great exhaust, replete with LTH's. Following install of the supercharger, you were disappointed wiht both the boost, and I presume RWHP. Then you removed the LTH's to get RWHP, and by definition Boost, back.
So this is where I am lost. Boost is merely a representation of RESISTANCE to forward flow [through the engine]. WHY would you replace the stock exhaust to improve boost? We all know that it will, and we see indeed that it was, but wouldn't it have been better to step up the pulley size? The reason the boost was so low was that the volumetric efficiency of the motor was great. Increasing the boost through such an efficient system would have the secondary effect of providing you with even MORE HP, no?...Matching the correct boost to the exhaust is ideal. Stepping up to the next pulley size (8# I think...?) would have made more EFFICIENT hp, IMO. Of course this suggestion is predicated oin the idea of making sure your fuel delivery is up to it.
Anyways, maybe GTM can chime in?
While reading this thread to the point of seeing only 4 pounds delivered boost, I thought, OK, just step up the pulley...then...they removed LTH's...
Not trying to offend. Again, nice job on the final product.
I come from a storied background in Mustangs, having owned and built a highly modified 93 Cobra with one of the first Prochargers on it at the time, and an 03 Cobra. Suffice as to say I'm pretty up to date with supercharging.
I have read this entire post and give props to Shumby for taking the plunge and [finally] getting a great running FI car. Sounds like GTM has got it going on.
Now my question.
Before the install, you had a pretty efficient NA car, with CAI, and a great exhaust, replete with LTH's. Following install of the supercharger, you were disappointed wiht both the boost, and I presume RWHP. Then you removed the LTH's to get RWHP, and by definition Boost, back.
So this is where I am lost. Boost is merely a representation of RESISTANCE to forward flow [through the engine]. WHY would you replace the stock exhaust to improve boost? We all know that it will, and we see indeed that it was, but wouldn't it have been better to step up the pulley size? The reason the boost was so low was that the volumetric efficiency of the motor was great. Increasing the boost through such an efficient system would have the secondary effect of providing you with even MORE HP, no?...Matching the correct boost to the exhaust is ideal. Stepping up to the next pulley size (8# I think...?) would have made more EFFICIENT hp, IMO. Of course this suggestion is predicated oin the idea of making sure your fuel delivery is up to it.
Anyways, maybe GTM can chime in?
While reading this thread to the point of seeing only 4 pounds delivered boost, I thought, OK, just step up the pulley...then...they removed LTH's...
Not trying to offend. Again, nice job on the final product.
Valve timing!! Or in the case of Nissan: Valve Event.
Cant be changed due to the VVEL.
GTM has been working on cracking the VVEL for some time now, not sure where they are with it.
On the topic of the original posters question, I'm not convinced that in that particular instance that the long tube headers had anything to do with the boost that car was making before they swapped it over to stock headers. I'm running headers and HFC's and hit 8 lbs. all day long.
On the topic of the original posters question, I'm not convinced that in that particular instance that the long tube headers had anything to do with the boost that car was making before they swapped it over to stock headers. I'm running headers and HFC's and hit 8 lbs. all day long.
GTM has been working on cracking the VVEL for some time now, not sure where they are with it.
On the topic of the original posters question, I'm not convinced that in that particular instance that the long tube headers had anything to do with the boost that car was making before they swapped it over to stock headers. I'm running headers and HFC's and hit 8 lbs. all day long.
On the topic of the original posters question, I'm not convinced that in that particular instance that the long tube headers had anything to do with the boost that car was making before they swapped it over to stock headers. I'm running headers and HFC's and hit 8 lbs. all day long.
btw! does your power steering line leak? i just noticed mines is leaking.
I had issues with the aluminum part where that hose connects too. When they tap it and reweld it my original part had a few small holes which was causing air to leak into the PS fluid. I put some jb weld while i waited for the replacement part and it has been holding for a month. The new one came but it looks like it might have the same issue so i am going to jb weld it before installing it!
I had issues with the aluminum part where that hose connects too. When they tap it and reweld it my original part had a few small holes which was causing air to leak into the PS fluid. I put some jb weld while i waited for the replacement part and it has been holding for a month. The new one came but it looks like it might have the same issue so i am going to jb weld it before installing it!
How many miles has it been and howd you noticed. Oil leaking where? That concerns me because I have new transmission oil lines, tramission oil cooler, sc oil lines and engine oil cooler liens :\
kosstick,
I had the same issue with the pinhole in the weld (first one Sam had seen) we were racking our brains trying to figure out why I couldn't purge all the air from the system and get the wining to stop. Found it by pressurizing the system to look for leaks... I just drilled out the weld and tapped it with an 1/8" pipe thread tap and put a plug in it.
Weiboy,
No real leaks on my PS, just a little wetness on the over braid hose you show in your pic. I too have an oil leak, second time. First was the adapter plate which seemed to have loosened up a bit, this time I'm not sure since I haven't had a chance to crawl under and look. I usually just take care of these issues at oil change time, they have never been bad enough to warrant addressing them any sooner.
I had the same issue with the pinhole in the weld (first one Sam had seen) we were racking our brains trying to figure out why I couldn't purge all the air from the system and get the wining to stop. Found it by pressurizing the system to look for leaks... I just drilled out the weld and tapped it with an 1/8" pipe thread tap and put a plug in it.
Weiboy,
No real leaks on my PS, just a little wetness on the over braid hose you show in your pic. I too have an oil leak, second time. First was the adapter plate which seemed to have loosened up a bit, this time I'm not sure since I haven't had a chance to crawl under and look. I usually just take care of these issues at oil change time, they have never been bad enough to warrant addressing them any sooner.
kosstick,
I had the same issue with the pinhole in the weld (first one Sam had seen) we were racking our brains trying to figure out why I couldn't purge all the air from the system and get the wining to stop. Found it by pressurizing the system to look for leaks... I just drilled out the weld and tapped it with an 1/8" pipe thread tap and put a plug in it.
Weiboy,
No real leaks on my PS, just a little wetness on the over braid hose you show in your pic. I too have an oil leak, second time. First was the adapter plate which seemed to have loosened up a bit, this time I'm not sure since I haven't had a chance to crawl under and look. I usually just take care of these issues at oil change time, they have never been bad enough to warrant addressing them any sooner.
I had the same issue with the pinhole in the weld (first one Sam had seen) we were racking our brains trying to figure out why I couldn't purge all the air from the system and get the wining to stop. Found it by pressurizing the system to look for leaks... I just drilled out the weld and tapped it with an 1/8" pipe thread tap and put a plug in it.
Weiboy,
No real leaks on my PS, just a little wetness on the over braid hose you show in your pic. I too have an oil leak, second time. First was the adapter plate which seemed to have loosened up a bit, this time I'm not sure since I haven't had a chance to crawl under and look. I usually just take care of these issues at oil change time, they have never been bad enough to warrant addressing them any sooner.
On the current set up I had to wait till the car cooled down and then attempt to put jb weld on it, first few times it failed because oil was seeping out but i finally got it to stick. been good ever since.
Mike how do you know you have an oil leak? (do you visibly see it or do you have a pressure gauge or are you checking dipstick ect)
Registered Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: MD
Same issue with the pin hole, had it welded and no further issues with it so far.
My hose is rubber.
<a href="http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/Neil_Shumaker/?action=view&current=Hose.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/Neil_Shumaker/Hose.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
My hose is rubber.
<a href="http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/Neil_Shumaker/?action=view&current=Hose.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/Neil_Shumaker/Hose.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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