I will be getting it done bc my sponsor would like to know how well it does in comparison to Eneos. I a recently put in Motul V300 5w30. His supplier tried saying that it was strictly for track cars and that it wouldnt last 3500 miles even though it is full synthetic. We will see.

 

I'm one of the guys who keeps forgetting. I'm about to do a change very soon and will run a quality (undecided) synthetic for 7500 miles and see what it looks like.

 

I had to buy 3 cans, costs way to much for oil IMO even though I got it way cheap.

 

Not really, G35 had a VQ35HR, G37 has a VQ37VHR, slight differences.

 

Keep us informed, I hate going in every 3500 for oil changes.

 

Past UOA has proven that 300V does work. It is a race car oil in that it is 'sticks' to parts better during high temperature, heavy duty operation, to ensure lubrication.

I've seen bone stock VQ's blow from oil starvation during (very) spirited driving. (confirmed cause and warrantied, but that's another story).

Every VQ I've seen blow during (very) spirited driving has been with a non-ester oil.

 

Get a few UOA done by Blackstone. You can get some additional analysis done for an extra 10 bucks or so, and they can tell you exactly how much life was left in the oil.

 

Thanks Mike. I can say that I put my car through some "very spirited driving conditions" so I want to make sure that I keep her in the best possible condition with great preventative maintenance.

 

Well I ordered some synthetic non ester 5W30 Eneos today from Forged and I plan to get a UOA done at 7.5K and see how it looks. That should be in about March with the miles I put on Betty.

 

Good luck, I am way to scared to go that long w/o an oil change. But I drive harder too.

 

Do you mean an ester-based synthetic (Group V) oil? If not, what ester oil/non-ester oil are you talking about.

 

Well... Klumzyee was running on a 'non-premium' synthetic when he blew his motor chasing/running away from me.

I don't claim to be an oil expert, nor am I one. I am just passing on my observations and the observations of professionals who looked at the engine.

The Engines I know of that blew were all non-ester(Non Group V) oil. One of them was running a Group 4 (PAO) oil.

Bobistheoilguy.com has all the oil information you can ever want and more.

 

Thank you. I was trying to find out what you meant by "non-ester oil". There really is no such thing as an "ester oil". Why Nissan names their oil "Ester oil" is a mystery to me, especially when, according to the European Patent Application, the oil contains no additional or further quantity ester additives. There are ester-based synthetics (Group V). I was just wondering whether your use of "non-ester oil" meant a Group III or Group IV synthetic or a synthetic blend or a conventional oil.

I am not sure what you mean by a "non-premium synthetic". I have yet to see any synthetic oil manufacturer state their synthetic oil was anything other than a premium oil.

 

The "premium synthetics" would be the 100% synthetics, as opposed to the blends, like Mobil1.

Amsoil and Motul are both 100% synthetic, and would be considered a premium synthetic.

For everyone else: A Group IV synthetic is PAO (Polyalphaolefin) based, while a Group V synthetic is Ester based. Both are completely man made. Group I, II, and III synthetics are oil based.

I found a good PDF, describing the different classes. here:

shogunoil.com/Shogun_leaflet.pdf

 

hmm...mobil 1 synthetic is a group iii right? i blew my 5at g35 motor at 68k miles and infiniti had no explanation. i drive pretty aggressively so it looks like i definitely need to step up to better oil. sounds like i might have to call up sharif for some motul. my plan was a regular oil change at 3k miles, then switching to synthetic at 6k miles with a changeout period of 6k miles. what do you guys think?