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that is carboard? aluminum composite would probably hold up very well in the engine bay.
This is cardboard🤣. So far it has held, I'm still exploring ideas for the front box. Debating if I make it out of fiber. I would like to incorporate a fresh air tube to the box but then taking it out would be an issue.
It's been a lot of work, I'm surrounded with many folks who have full tubular intakes and the space savings are just envious.
If I can't get it how I want it to look I might go with tubular.
This is cardboard🤣. So far it has held, I'm still exploring ideas for the front box. Debating if I make it out of fiber. I would like to incorporate a fresh air tube to the box but then taking it out would be an issue.
It's been a lot of work, I'm surrounded with many folks who have full tubular intakes and the space savings are just envious.
If I can't get it how I want it to look I might go with tubular.
Never thought about making my own intake, would be a fun project actually. I usually end up modifying an aftermarket one to make it better, but starting from scratch is cool.
is your carboard intake box module for easy dissemble?
could remove the flat filter and add a small couple inch length pipe going from the maf housing portion connected to a open center air filter like this one to maximize filter surface area. Should be smal enough to fit inside your box though. https://www.knfilters.com/rr-3003-re...sal-air-filter
then add some intake tubes like the mishimotos. Would probably be as good of an intake system as you can get.
I have a circular version of these made out of 3.8 plastic drain that half of it is accordion style so I'm able to move it around as I please.
The issue is that at 3.8 I'm maxed out on my core support and they fit snuggly.
At the moment the front of the box slides into the tube and provides a good fit, definitely a better fit however the molded aluminum one fits even better which is why I'm considering fiber.
As for the cone filter, I'm utilizing Admintuning's results of 350whp on his wife Q50 as the base experiment. Making that much power on a dyno with a VHR means that outside air velocity is not what is making this make power.
Stock G37 and Q50 boxes introduce positive pressure at high speeds into the intakes but a dyno would not be able to do this which leads me to believe that the power maker is the rear of the intake box.
Making some measurements I believe the 3.7 Q50 box has an area of 2.5 inches bigger than the G37 box. Looking at the front of the Q50 box it utilizes the front radiator cover to channel forced grill air to the boxes so in comparison, some huge tubes and proper front boxes to the Q50 rears is the way to go. The biggest issue of all is to make it air tight so I can hopefully see some positive pressure.
The carboard one did great, I just not happy with the aesthetics, like I mentioned before with the cardboard ones I'm seeing about .5 leaner at WOT vs my old G37 modified boxes with AEM filters so technically I'm seeing a bit more air.
Once i get a solid design I will tune again.
From watching the company Eventuri, most of their designs end up being a filtered velocity stack box with the biggest filter they can squeeze with a huge fresh air duct and everything in carbon.
Simply a huge fresh air feed going to a box for volume with a tapered rear to add even more velocity.
If you have a way to check your airfuels you should.
My car was running amazing with AEM filters and a gutted oem box.
When I switched to Q50 intakes with aftermarket filters and a custom 4 inch box I noticed it slightly leaner = slower but a good feeling since it means some tuning would yield better results.
I am now getting those 171/174 lean codes at cold start. But they go away after some driving around. I still have not gotten an all out pass to compare. Hoping to get a few with this good cool air.
I have a circular version of these made out of 3.8 plastic drain that half of it is accordion style so I'm able to move it around as I please.
The issue is that at 3.8 I'm maxed out on my core support and they fit snuggly.
At the moment the front of the box slides into the tube and provides a good fit, definitely a better fit however the molded aluminum one fits even better which is why I'm considering fiber.
As for the cone filter, I'm utilizing Admintuning's results of 350whp on his wife Q50 as the base experiment. Making that much power on a dyno with a VHR means that outside air velocity is not what is making this make power.
Stock G37 and Q50 boxes introduce positive pressure at high speeds into the intakes but a dyno would not be able to do this which leads me to believe that the power maker is the rear of the intake box.
Making some measurements I believe the 3.7 Q50 box has an area of 2.5 inches bigger than the G37 box. Looking at the front of the Q50 box it utilizes the front radiator cover to channel forced grill air to the boxes so in comparison, some huge tubes and proper front boxes to the Q50 rears is the way to go. The biggest issue of all is to make it air tight so I can hopefully see some positive pressure.
The carboard one did great, I just not happy with the aesthetics, like I mentioned before with the cardboard ones I'm seeing about .5 leaner at WOT vs my old G37 modified boxes with AEM filters so technically I'm seeing a bit more air.
Once i get a solid design I will tune again.
From watching the company Eventuri, most of their designs end up being a filtered velocity stack box with the biggest filter they can squeeze with a huge fresh air duct and everything in carbon.
Simply a huge fresh air feed going to a box for volume with a tapered rear to add even more velocity.
The larger filter area of the Q50 is the better way to go. My tubes are only 3" and are a good fit into the boxes. But one has developed a crack in the FlexSeal I use to make the box air tight. I have to fix that on one side. The 3.8" you used was a good move to get the most out of this. May do that myself since the tubes don't cost that much and I have to fix one side anyway. Once I am done with this I will do the 3.69 gear swap. Hoping to cut off 2 tenths with that.
I tried another method and this time I feel I have the design ready. Now that I know where the pipes for the inside need to end in so the front can be removable I can build a better box.
Not the best of looking but the best of fitting since I know the 4 inch junction is leak free, the front i can expand and contract and will possibly connect to Velocity stacks once I find the best place for them.
If you pay attention I replicated the OEM system in the old one just bigger piping and in the new one I tried to incorporate a 4 inch feed tube "cold air intake style" into the boxes.
I wonder what would be better?
Leave the feed pipes like that or cut them shorter into the corner.
Velocity stacks will happen, just need to know where.
I tried another method and this time I feel I have the design ready. Now that I know where the pipes for the inside need to end in so the front can be removable I can build a better box.
Not the best of looking but the best of fitting since I know the 4 inch junction is leak free, the front i can expand and contract and will possibly connect to Velocity stacks once I find the best place for them.
If you pay attention I replicated the OEM system in the old one just bigger piping and in the new one I tried to incorporate a 4 inch feed tube "cold air intake style" into the boxes.
I wonder what would be better?
Leave the feed pipes like that or cut them shorter into the corner.
Velocity stacks will happen, just need to know where.
