CDONNS

iTrader: (3)

Alright guys, I had purchased these lights last week not even thinking about the lack of dual capabilities in our turn signals (since I have a coupe). So, I had to order a set of 7443 sockets to allow for this. Here I'll show you what is needed to do in order to make the switchbacks useable or if you just want your signal bulb on any time your parking light is on.

What you need:
~2 feet of insulated wire (about 17 gauge is good)
Wire Stripper/cutter
Electrical Tape or Heatshrink
Solder and Soldering iron (optional, but recommended)
2 7443 sockets
Variety of sockets/wrenches/screwdrivers

Okay, so I changed both the front and rear signals to LED. Here are the lights I got from V-LEDs.com:

Front Switchbacks:
V-LEDS TYPE 2 DUAL COLOR CHANGING HID WHITE AMBER SWITCHBACK 48 M-SMT PARKING/TURN SIGNAL BULBS 7443 7443NA

Rear Signal LED:
V-LEDS PLATINUM RED 7 WATT HIGH POWER 20 LED BRAKE LIGHT BULBS 7440 7443

3 Ohm Resistor:
3 OHM 50W 4 BULB LED LOAD EQUALIZER RESISTORS TURN SIGNAL BLINKER FIX

7443 Sockets from Autolumination.com (down the page a ways):
Automotive Connectors

For the rear lights, I used the DIY on removing the taillights. Then I just swapped the bulbs, simple enough. If you do not plan on doing the rears and only fronts, or vice versa, you will need 6ohm resistors. Perks about doing both front and rear at once is you only need 1 3ohm for each side of the vehicle.


Note: This is for coupe owners only, Sedans are already wired for this and should be plug and play.

For the fronts, since I'm lowered, I jacked up the car on both sides and turned the wheel to access the wheel well liner. Folded it back and had easy access to the lights. I also removed my R2C intake heatshield/filters to give me more room to splice into parking light.

First off though, I had to test polarity of the LEDs and find out how the new sockets are wired up to know which wire to splice with the parking light and which to go with power and ground of the original signal connector. From here I determined that the new sockets are wired for Green to be ground, Black for parking lights, and Red will go to original power for turn signal.

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/eadHzX31zgJmcxvxUqvNuT-i8iGV_Baxfy489B4A0wE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_35mFCvMJ5Js/TccrKD6e8QI/AAAAAAAABMg/j936CU0Pvds/s800/photo%202.JPG" height="800" width="598" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/hvtq2akIvxZZCO64PCtBzD-i8iGV_Baxfy489B4A0wE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_35mFCvMJ5Js/TccrN-GIIjI/AAAAAAAABMo/HV1JS5LzhZ8/s800/photo%201.JPG" height="800" width="598" /></a>

Next, I tested the new sockets with all the wiring temporarily half *** spliced into the original 7440 socket to make sure it will all work out. Success, parking light is on when it should be and off when the signal is on.
Note: the power for the original 7440 socket is the green wire (Red/Blue on new socket) and ground is Black (Green/Yellow on new socket).

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/kyvcGy0fMy9D2w1SiSCBAz-i8iGV_Baxfy489B4A0wE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_35mFCvMJ5Js/TccrTEK-msI/AAAAAAAABMs/n3AW8e9lkI8/s800/photo%205.JPG" height="598" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8VEXsbtGrtj5IdBy0wsUlj-i8iGV_Baxfy489B4A0wE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_35mFCvMJ5Js/TccrMlkgTcI/AAAAAAAABMk/ELU0uMhsu8Q/s800/photo%203.JPG" height="800" width="598" /></a>

Here, I have all leads trimmed and ready. Old 7440 connector is removed. Notice the black wire of the socket going to the parking light via the red wire, this is the extra wire needed since the provided wire from socket is not long enough.
This is when you can splice in the load resistors as well and mount in the engine bay. Resistors do not have polarity so it does not matter how you connect them, just make sure one lead is connected to turn signal power and the other lead to turn signal ground (Black wires coming from upper right are from the load resistors.)

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DKwXdLWKsN_ADi7JxHwQSj-i8iGV_Baxfy489B4A0wE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_35mFCvMJ5Js/Tccr3BzOfFI/AAAAAAAABNI/9vTO4V1SG_M/s800/photo%203.JPG" height="598" width="800" /></a>

This is all of them hooked up pre-soldering. Second pic is of extension wire (red) to the parking light.

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6pTKy3Lcv8T-zG8jaX5okz-i8iGV_Baxfy489B4A0wE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_35mFCvMJ5Js/Tccr4u7Sv0I/AAAAAAAABNQ/-4mnSKQZw9A/s800/photo%204.JPG" height="598" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/vJwQZio01opJOh8nNmLPHz-i8iGV_Baxfy489B4A0wE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_35mFCvMJ5Js/Tccr7Xy__oI/AAAAAAAABNU/8LpGZ-BqpO4/s800/photo%205.JPG" height="598" width="800" /></a>

And finally, all hooked up, soldered and taped up (Here is where you could use heatshrink). Second image, again, is of the extension wire (red) spliced into the parking light.

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ms1f5A-OrWLMaRkwZnE8pz-i8iGV_Baxfy489B4A0wE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_35mFCvMJ5Js/TccriSdbwkI/AAAAAAAABM4/uITFNAOhkp4/s800/photo%201.JPG" height="598" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/n3UXYODoVzKDMJPuNwp11T-i8iGV_Baxfy489B4A0wE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_35mFCvMJ5Js/TccrgeYzxPI/AAAAAAAABM0/ZJ9CrttvzCw/s800/photo%202.JPG" height="598" width="800" /></a>

RESULTS:

IMAGE AND VID OF RESULTS

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/MeqLJK1rx-m18S5_VfXAxz-i8iGV_Baxfy489B4A0wE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_35mFCvMJ5Js/TccrjuMFRhI/AAAAAAAABM8/1UlwOYiNB_I/s800/photo%203.JPG" height="598" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/uOhFYywg3lCtSYU3oAx_Iz-i8iGV_Baxfy489B4A0wE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_35mFCvMJ5Js/Tccrm3DXnBI/AAAAAAAABNA/EgAGW8mtClM/s800/photo%204.JPG" height="598" width="800" /></a>

OLD SOCKETS:
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/S6OZ1xR6SocTsEKiPRBIOD-i8iGV_Baxfy489B4A0wE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_35mFCvMJ5Js/TccrqjQOBdI/AAAAAAAABNE/tF2BvK8Hd9A/s800/photo%205.JPG" height="800" width="598" /></a>

<iframe width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/qHucMpAcSGg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/kAgY908oYHo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Hope this helps if anyone plans on doing it to their coupe. Personally, I like the look.

Djfarhan

i wish i could do this on my 07/..;-/

CDONNS

iTrader: (3)

You should be able to... or at least some variation of it. Are your signal lights and parking lights separate?

breftayka

iTrader: (13)

I think it looks pretty good man. Nice DIY.

Djfarhan

yes..;-/

CDONNS

iTrader: (3)

Quick search shows you have 7440 too, so this DIY will do exactly what you need since they get swapped for the 7443! Unless I'm missing something....

When I said it wasn't for sedans I was thinking G37 sedans

Djfarhan

blinking is 992 or 7440A

and parking is 2827

CDONNS

iTrader: (3)

Perfect, swap the sockets and splice into the parking light for the other power lead. This DIY will apply completely to yours, just the wire colors/locations may be different.

Djfarhan

yeah i haveta look into the wiring, thanks for all the info

chuckie311

iTrader: (3)

great write up thanks for sharing

yogregb

iTrader: (7)

Appreciate the work you did, think I,ll do this for a rainy day project in the future,,,thx

CDONNS

iTrader: (3)

No problem man, it's a fun little project. It'll go great with your LED strip in the faux grills (if you're still rocking that look)

dwb993

Great DIY! Just what I was looking for.
Sorry to bump an old thread.
Thanks!

G37ethh

iTrader: (1)

Be great if you could see any of it.