When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
right! guess I could have looked at your sig. Thanks
I wonder how much different the splash shields are from model to model? This seems like an easy fix for the "messy oil filter" problem people have reported from not having enough access to the filter. Does removing this splash shield expose the entire oil filter and drain plug? just wondering why no one else has done this? Is it a PITA to remove?
Pita is relative. There's about 16 bolts holding it down and 3 push clips in the middle. They're not difficult to remove but do take additional time. If I was doing quarterly OCI's then I'd probably do this every other change. Still, I think this is a good opportunity to examine the underside for any leaks.
Once removed, you have full access to the drain bolt, filter, etc.
Like Solo mentioned there's a few push clips that are involved, it's a good idea to just get a bag of them as they are used throughout the car, interior & exterior. Over time, especially if you're lowered those push clips tend to become collateral damage and the middle of the pan will sag.
Not sure if these are the exact ones you'd need, but they are pretty cheap if you don't go to the dealer~ 100pcs Plastic Rivet Fastener Mud Flaps Bumper Fender Push Clips 8mm for Nissan | eBay
It seems those flaps and access covers are different from year to year, model to model. Mine folds completely back & out of the way (I just hold it back w/ a bottle jack, or you can wire it), never had any oil gt into my pan.
mine has a little square access panel that covers the oil filter with a hinge on the rear and secured with two 10mm bolts. there is an opening in the undertray to access the drain bolt. no real messes - just wiped a few stray drips from around the opening.
Also, OP I wouldn't recommend ever working under your car w/ just a jack as your "savior", I know it may seem rare, but a hydraulic leak, jack failure, etc. can occur and can be deadly. I'd use ramps or jackstands
good catch! my jack has a big bolt that goes through the arm, so it acts as a jackstand once its raised.
Always use a jack stand. By friend was trapped a few ago after putting his truck up and simply looking underneath. The jack failed and he was pinned. Luckily his girlfriend was there. She was going to get a jack stand at the time. That's how close he was to avoiding it. He ended up Ok but needed the fire dept to lift the truck. It's a lowered s10...sits lower than a stock g I'd imagine.
Pita is relative. There's about 16 bolts holding it down and 3 push clips in the middle. They're not difficult to remove but do take additional time. If I was doing quarterly OCI's then I'd probably do this every other change. Still, I think this is a good opportunity to examine the underside for any leaks.
Once removed, you have full access to the drain bolt, filter, etc.
Found this on google.
Thanks for providing that pic jsolo. Now I know how much access I have when Removing the cover. would I still need the oil filter removal tool even if I have full access to the filter? or do you think I can loosen it by hand?
Thanks
Like Solo mentioned there's a few push clips that are involved, it's a good idea to just get a bag of them as they are used throughout the car, interior & exterior. Over time, especially if you're lowered those push clips tend to become collateral damage and the middle of the pan will sag.
Not sure if these are the exact ones you'd need, but they are pretty cheap if you don't go to the dealer~ 100pcs Plastic Rivet Fastener Mud Flaps Bumper Fender Push Clips 8mm for Nissan | eBay
Thanks for that info blnewt. Never really thought of those clips wearing out. Good call. Now hopefully those clips are universal for most of the G models.I will look into that. Thanks for the link.
mine has a little square access panel that covers the oil filter with a hinge on the rear and secured with two 10mm bolts. there is an opening in the undertray to access the drain bolt. no real messes - just wiped a few stray drips from around the opening.
Thanks for sharing that landshark. I can only hope that the xs coupe I'm looking to buy has that same configuration. fingers crossed.
Thanks for sharing that landshark. I can only hope that the xs coupe I'm looking to buy has that same configuration. fingers crossed.
with a regular jack, jack it in the rear driver's side until its high enough to get a jack stand under the front jacking point. engage the parking brake beforehand, and put a brick or wheel chock behind the other rear wheel to be safe.
Originally Posted by dmill86
Question, what brand of oil filters do you guys use? and are there specific size filters for each year/model of G? Thanks
i just got a Fram Synthetic (supposedly good to 15k miles, but i would NEVER feel comfortable going that much) - will probably be changed around 6000-6500 miles.
blnewt uses a larger filter from another model Infiniti if i'm not mistaken ....
with a regular jack, jack it in the rear driver's side until its high enough to get a jack stand under the front jacking point. engage the parking brake beforehand, and put a brick or wheel chock behind the other rear wheel to be safe.
so essentially the car is jacked up on just the driver side?
so essentially the car is jacked up on just the driver side?
yes, the drain bolt drains to the passenger side, so having the drivers side jacked up helps the oil drain out. unless you're a Sasquatch, you should have no trouble reaching everything by laying on the ground and reaching under. you'll have to locate the drain plug "by feel".
the filter is up in the access hole - i used a socket wrench with 3" extension and an oil filter "socket" that fit the filter. like it the pic below (not a G37 - just an example of wrench/extension so you know what i'm talking about) ...
Thanks for the explanation and the picture landshark. Much appreciated. So the drain plug can only be located by "feel"? Wouldn't that make it somewhat tricky to get it threaded back in and torqued properly? Thanks
03-15-2017, 06:04 PM
Thanks 
