I recently heard a loud pop while pulling into my driveway. A few day's later I looked under my car and noticed one of my rear swaybar endlinks was hanging off. Apparently this is common with sedans with aftermarket swaybars. Hopefully I can help you to resolve this issue. I only worked on one side at a time and I suggest you do the same.

Before we begin, I'm not responsible for anything you do to your car. This is only to assist you. If you are not comfortable preforming these actions then you should seek professional assistance.

Time:
This took me 37 mins per side.

Tools:
Aftermarket floor jack (now to be referred as house jack)
G37 floor jack from trunk
Jackstand
21mm socket or lugnut wrench
Optional (wheel lock)
14mm wrench (oem nut size)
15mm wrench (moog nut size)
Small pair of Vice Grips
New end link:

Driver Rear:
Pass Rear:





Operation:
Find and park the car on level ground.
Pull the E-Brake
If manual, place into first gear.

Take your home jack and place it on the one of the factory pinch points. Jack the car up just enough to get the wheel off the car.



Finish removing the wheel. (Note that it makes a nice seat)

Now, you SHOULD put a jack stand under the car to make sure you don't get squished.

With your 14mm wrench, reach past the brake and loosen the nut (or two if yours aren't broken) on your existing endlink. You may need to use your vice grips to stop the shaft from spinning.

Remove old endlink and discard it and the nut(s).



Moog branded driver's side:



Moog branded passenger side:



Take the new endlink and push it through the TOP mounting position on the car and put the nut on with just a few turns.

Now, you'll notice that the other end of the endlink is not QUITE lined up with the sway bar. This is where I took the jack from the trunk and used it to help push the suspension up and thus allowing me to push the other end of the endlink in.



Use the vice grips to hold the shaft-side of the endlink. Then tighten the 15mm nut with your wrench. The documentation with the endlinks said to tighten to 27 ft lbs. I did not use a torque wrench. You probably should.

Now repeat the process for the bottom endlink nut to tighten it as well.



Lower and remove the car's jack from under the suspension.

Reinstall your wheel and tighten lugnuts.

Lower and remove the house jack from under the car.

Retighten wheel lugnuts.

 

So you have to remove your wheels to install these? and you don't when installing sways?

 

Removing the wheels might make it easier. I don't recall removing wheels when I did my sway bars. Although, I didn't remove the links entirely, just the nut at each end of the bar.

 

When you are doing the sways you only drop the lower nut which is easy to get at. When replacing the end link you'll need to remove both nuts. I couldn't get to it from on the ground without removing the wheel.

 

I had to give up.

I could get to it from underneath without taking off the wheels, but I couldn't get enough leverage to bust the top nut free on the OEM link.

Tried everything including the ATF/acetone 50/50 combo. The wrench was threatening to bend or round off the nut. Ticking me off!!

I need to reassess and attack again.

Sean

UPDATE: All it took was a more stout wrench and complete disregard for rounding off the nut. Once I had that wrench all went perfectly. Nuts broke free and didn't turn into washers. :-)