window glass height adjustment-no more leaks!
#16
Registered User
bump bump bump
I am having a tremendous problem with wind noise coming from my driver's window as well as leaks when I wash the car. There seems to be a 1mm gap between the glass and the B pillar door seal, as if the glass needs to be pulled back towards this B pillar door seal. If I were to raise the glass, would it close this vertical gap?
I am having a tremendous problem with wind noise coming from my driver's window as well as leaks when I wash the car. There seems to be a 1mm gap between the glass and the B pillar door seal, as if the glass needs to be pulled back towards this B pillar door seal. If I were to raise the glass, would it close this vertical gap?
#17
Registered Member
iTrader: (8)
bump bump bump
I am having a tremendous problem with wind noise coming from my driver's window as well as leaks when I wash the car. There seems to be a 1mm gap between the glass and the B pillar door seal, as if the glass needs to be pulled back towards this B pillar door seal. If I were to raise the glass, would it close this vertical gap?
I am having a tremendous problem with wind noise coming from my driver's window as well as leaks when I wash the car. There seems to be a 1mm gap between the glass and the B pillar door seal, as if the glass needs to be pulled back towards this B pillar door seal. If I were to raise the glass, would it close this vertical gap?
#19
Registered Member
Bump!
I;m having an issue with my driver side window going up to high. I've reset my windows and still does the same. I have to be really careful when I close the door also because I have hit the outside door trim and chipped my paint. Does anyone know how I can fix this issue? Will adjusting the window down a little make a bigger problem?
#21
Loosen the bolt (ccw) = raise
Tighten the bolt (cw) = lower
The bolt is upside down, so it can screw up your orientation. Also, if you drop your socket or any tool, like OP and myself, take off the speaker and you can easily access it with your hand.
On convertibles, you need to disconnect the battery, wait 3 minutes, and remove the abs bolts as well. This is so the side airbags don't go off. Removing the door panel is in the fms and is different for verts.
Thanks for the post OP! No more whilsting window.
Tighten the bolt (cw) = lower
The bolt is upside down, so it can screw up your orientation. Also, if you drop your socket or any tool, like OP and myself, take off the speaker and you can easily access it with your hand.
On convertibles, you need to disconnect the battery, wait 3 minutes, and remove the abs bolts as well. This is so the side airbags don't go off. Removing the door panel is in the fms and is different for verts.
Thanks for the post OP! No more whilsting window.
#22
Window leak
picture 00004 showed the leak, coming from the top of the 'triangle.' My leaks happen from just sitting still and light rain.
Note: Even if you don't see the edge of your glass exposed from the outside, imag 18), and you have water on your treble speaker, chances are you window hadn't raised up enough.
its a pretty easy process if you know how to take your door piece a part, and handy with a screw driver and a small rachet! no more than 20 minutes per window, including disassembling and reassembling.
Note: Even if you don't see the edge of your glass exposed from the outside, imag 18), and you have water on your treble speaker, chances are you window hadn't raised up enough.
its a pretty easy process if you know how to take your door piece a part, and handy with a screw driver and a small rachet! no more than 20 minutes per window, including disassembling and reassembling.
#23
Registered User
Loosen the bolt (ccw) = raise
Tighten the bolt (cw) = lower
The bolt is upside down, so it can screw up your orientation. Also, if you drop your socket or any tool, like OP and myself, take off the speaker and you can easily access it with your hand.
On convertibles, you need to disconnect the battery, wait 3 minutes, and remove the abs bolts as well. This is so the side airbags don't go off. Removing the door panel is in the fms and is different for verts.
Thanks for the post OP! No more whilsting window.
Tighten the bolt (cw) = lower
The bolt is upside down, so it can screw up your orientation. Also, if you drop your socket or any tool, like OP and myself, take off the speaker and you can easily access it with your hand.
On convertibles, you need to disconnect the battery, wait 3 minutes, and remove the abs bolts as well. This is so the side airbags don't go off. Removing the door panel is in the fms and is different for verts.
Thanks for the post OP! No more whilsting window.
#24
Registered Member
#25
Gap still present
So I went ahead and took care of this a few minutes ago but i bottomed out the adjustment screw and there still seems to be a gap in my window. Anyone have any suggestions as to what to do next? New window seal maybe?
#26
Just wanted to say thanks. Followed this and it worked like a charm. No more wind leak
I used the following threads for references:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...oor-panel.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/audio-v...l-removal.html
*** please make sure you don't roll your window up or down while the rachet is attached to the adjusting screw!!!***
And refer to the top-notch 'color' coded pictures for reference! And you must be familiar with knowledge of reset your windows.... do a search or read your manual...
1) remove the interior panel by following the DIY threads above.
2) remove the window control and door lock box from the interior panel (circled in Turquois), held in place by 4 plastic clips, just use a small flat head screw driver. You will need this to roll your window up and down during adjustment.
3) there are two adjustment screws that are in a metal housing with a green plastic cover, and they can be access through the two holes circled in red. You can see them when the windows are rolled up (green). the adjustment is made through the 2 access holes with Red arrows using your rachet.
4) the screws are 7/32 in size and I used a 1/4 small rachet, you can make about 1/4 of a turn each way!
***Counter-clockwise turns will make your window go up higher, i.e., edge of glass will push up further into the rubber seals. Make the same # of turns for those two screws.***
5) don't drop your rachet into the door housing, like I did, which requires the removal of the speaker mount and takes 10 minutes longer!
I spent about 1 hr for this (1/2 hr. or less for one side), well worth the $100+ the dealer wants to charge me, and most of all is QUALITY control!!! Window adjustment are only covered for the first 12 months.... so the story goes.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...oor-panel.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/audio-v...l-removal.html
*** please make sure you don't roll your window up or down while the rachet is attached to the adjusting screw!!!***
And refer to the top-notch 'color' coded pictures for reference! And you must be familiar with knowledge of reset your windows.... do a search or read your manual...
1) remove the interior panel by following the DIY threads above.
2) remove the window control and door lock box from the interior panel (circled in Turquois), held in place by 4 plastic clips, just use a small flat head screw driver. You will need this to roll your window up and down during adjustment.
3) there are two adjustment screws that are in a metal housing with a green plastic cover, and they can be access through the two holes circled in red. You can see them when the windows are rolled up (green). the adjustment is made through the 2 access holes with Red arrows using your rachet.
4) the screws are 7/32 in size and I used a 1/4 small rachet, you can make about 1/4 of a turn each way!
***Counter-clockwise turns will make your window go up higher, i.e., edge of glass will push up further into the rubber seals. Make the same # of turns for those two screws.***
5) don't drop your rachet into the door housing, like I did, which requires the removal of the speaker mount and takes 10 minutes longer!
I spent about 1 hr for this (1/2 hr. or less for one side), well worth the $100+ the dealer wants to charge me, and most of all is QUALITY control!!! Window adjustment are only covered for the first 12 months.... so the story goes.
#27
This process didn't work for me. Adjusting the screws made little or no difference. In my case I was getting leaks just above the door mirror and at the top of the A pillar, I could feel the top of the glass with my fingernails when the door was shut.
Anyway, here's what I did, much quicker too!
Anyway, here's what I did, much quicker too!
- Disconnect the battery. This stops the windows dropping when the doors are opened.
- Using the above from the original post, remove the screw holding the inner door handle and the two screws on the grab handle.
- If you have a vert, remove the two screws behind the small SRS panels
- Pull off the door panel as per the original post.
- You dont need to disconnect the wiring etc, you should be able to have about 6 inches to play with.
- Remove the stick on patches at the top to access the holes marked in green on the attached picture
- Using a 12mm socket, loosen the bolt you can see through each hole.
- If you have one, a suction glass tool is really handy.
- If you haven't got one (who has?) then just raise the glass a small amount, tighten the bolts, clip the door panel back reconnect the battery and shut the door, A bit of trial and error as you may have to lift the glass a bit more.
The following users liked this post:
josephcl (01-11-2023)
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