It is slightly more effort than stock, but its still hard to feel the clutch engage and disengage when in 1st and 2nd.

My problem is with the pedal not coming back up all the way once iv changed gears. I have to use my foot to pull it back to normal position. Its just a pain as you can imagine. But it happens randomly, Iv had the mechanic bleed the lines a few times but the play just comes back.

 

Black betty does the modified and adjustable pedal/arm assembly remove the annoying play? because that is my biggest problem. Sometimes i have to pump the pedal several times for it to come back to normal position. My pedal even went dead on me and i had to drive back to the mechanic shop in 2nd gear. NOT FUN

 

I don't have it yet so I cannot verify that from experience but it is supposed to. I will likely buy mine next week. I don't have the issue you are describing with the same setup you have. Are you sure that the lines have been bled properly? Is the fluid low? It sounds to me like you might have air in the line.

 

I'd probably address the issue of the pedal not coming up properly before doing other mods. I recall there's some insulation around the clutch line near the exhaust (under the car). Maybe they didn't insulate it properly and thus you are having issues.

Are your pedal issues occurring when the car is completely cold (sat over night), or totally at random?

 

I have not done any other mods except the clutch, flywheel, and sc. The pedal issue happens randomly. The mechanic has bled the lines several times and checked the lines for insulation/leakage. The fluid levels are normal, he's using DOT 3. I'm really confused about why this is happening, faulty slave cylinder, clutch/flywheel not installed properly?

 

Kinks in the line and/or issues with the master perhaps? I suppose an improper installation is also possible.

Usually some consistency in the symptoms would help diagnose it. Something in the CSC binding? Has your tech dropped the trans to examine any unusual wear on the new clutch/csc or to make sure nothing is being pinched line wise.

 

It's probably a master cylinder issue. I've had my nightmares with the clutch system.

Basically, if your pedal is on the floor and you're leaking clutch fluid, you have a slave problem.

If your clutch reservoir is always full, but your clutch pedal randomly goes to the ground, you have a master cylinder problem.

 

Due to worn cups in the MC? Wouldn't there still be some pattern and consistency to it - temperature related maybe? The car in question only has 40K miles on it. Not very high mileage by any measure. I always surmised clutch abuse would wear out the parts at the fly wheel, not the MC...

 

Come to think of it, I replaced the CSC with a new OEM one when I replaced the clutch and flywheel. The Zspeed heavy duty unit came out a few weeks later. Then the master failed and I had to replace it (out of pocket of course). When I replaced the master I went ahead and put the Zspeed heavy duty CSC in to keep from having to do it again later since it would be the new weak link and takes a lot more labor to replace with its placement inside the transmission housing (screw you Nissan!)

My faulty master cylinder symptoms were like you are describing. I had forgotten.

 

ugh this is insane. I pretty much replaced the entire clutch system on my G. From what Black betty is saying I prob need to replace my master cylinder and that means going back into the the transmission which is guna cost $$.

The master cylinder you replaced it was OEM? or is there a better aftermarket one available?

Thanks you guys for all your help

 

I'm not sure what's going on inside the master cylinder but it has trouble pumping down fluid. Two things can happen:

1. Cannot pedal bleed clutch fluid. No matter how many times you try, there will always be bubble in the fluid. (This happened to me at 40k miles. Bled the clutch 3 consecutive days, spent 2 hours each time. There was always bubbles coming out, not much fluid. As soon as I changed to a new master, it bled on the first try.)

2. Clutch can be power bled or vacuum bled, but clutch pedal will go to the floor at random times. There is no consistency. I'm thinking this because the master cannot draw fluid from the reservoir. I've seen this happen to at least 5 people. As soon as the master is replaced, problem is resolved.

Long story short, if you experience the symptoms above, change your master. The good part is that you dont have to drop the tranny again, which will save you a lot of headache and/or money. I'll take a master failure over a slave failure any day of the week.

 

Modme your on point, I can power bleed the clutch, but the pedal will drop at RANDOM times. So I DEFINITELY need a master asap. Do you think any damage would have happened to the clutch/flywheel due to the lack of fluid being pumped by the master?

 

Would that also explain the loud rattling noise at idle when the clutch is disengaged? i understand that most aftermarket flywheels have a tendency of being loud but mine is louder than most. Lack of fluid being pumped by mc?

 

No damage will be caused by a bad master cylinder. Get it replaced and you should be good. The loud clutch chatter is normal, especially for a lightweight flywheel. Has nothing to do with the master cylinder.

 

A friend and I did this spring-delete mod today on my 2011 Sedan.



At first drive, I immediately recognized how smoother first gear can be without the spring, and how much more feel I had to the clutch throughout. However, the sloppy travel at the top of the clutch was unacceptable. Then we taped a penny & a nickle at the top of the pedal against the switch, and it became perfect. Completely perfect. I love how this delete-mod improves the driveability of my car, with minimal added effort on the clutch.

However, as much as I love it, I would feel much better about it all if the device were re-installed with a weaker spring. So...

...looking at this thread now: https://www.myg37.com/forums/group-b...g-for-6mt.html

Excellent free mod. Love it.