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DIY: Front and rear brake pad install

Old 08-03-2017, 08:53 AM
  #31  
NealP
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Originally Posted by Melophile View Post
Not a G, but I figured it's close.
I referenced this exact video when replacing my front brakes and rotors recently. Being a Nissan that shares some parts with the G coupe I figured it would be basically the same thing as the G but there were some differences. I only did the front though so I can't comment on the rear.

1. The allen key Melophile referenced is the bottom caliper bolt and is a 7mm. My allen wrench kit came with 6mm and 8mm, no 7mm. I went to Advance and their kits also didn't come with a 7mm but they did have a socket that had a 7mm allen key on the end so that worked perfectly.

2. I know this thread is for brakes but if someone also plans to do rotors and plans on keeping the rotors don't hit it with a hammer! Instead, on my coupe, there was another hole on the face of the rotor rotor for a bolt to insert and separate the rotor from the hub. I grabbed a bolt from the engine bay that was the right size -- I believe it was up front near the radiator.

3. Again, only applicable if you're removing the rotors/calipers but to remove the two bolts that secure the caliper to the hub I needed to get a 22mm socket as my kit only went up to 21mm. Good thing my bro was around to bring me to Advance!

4. I got the Stop Tech Street pads and they came with new caliper boots but in order to swap the bottom boot I literally had to drill out the existing boot. First I pulled on the rubber boot and was able to remove that but the plastic innards remained. I found that a 5/8" drill bit fit perfectly and drilled it out and the new boot fit perfectly. It was a little scary but it worked out.

5. Like he shows in the video, check the caliper bolts as they should not be dry. Always clean and re-grease these bolts or else you risk they sticking and causing premature wear. I actually found that one of mine dried up and was sticking which caused the inside pad to wear faster than the outside and developed a groove on the pad and rotor. If you're up north then use anti-seize where applicable (don't let it touch the inside of the pads or rotor!). Get brake cleaner to wipe the rotors before install. It's also good to have to clean the caliper bolts. Oh and brush down the calipers BEFORE you put the new rotors on, not after.
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:06 AM
  #32  
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^ Good stuff, I'll just add that you should only use silicone based grease for the boots that the pins go into. A lot of other lubes seemed to cause the boot to deteriorate.
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:14 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by RMB5190 View Post
^ Good stuff, I'll just add that you should only use silicone based grease for the boots that the pins go into. A lot of other lubes seemed to cause the boot to deteriorate.
This is what I use.

Amazon Amazon


copper anti-seize on all the metal to metal contacts, silicone paste on the pins. 3m is a little pricey but is very high quality and you'll be using the same container for years. My father is actually on the same tube of Dow Corning silicone paste he "borrowed" from Rome Labs at Griffiss AFB back in the 60's
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:29 AM
  #34  
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I used some stuff my dad had laying around his garage actually. He was adamant about helping me so I swung over there and he had a lot of the stuff I needed. The Anti seize he had made me a little leery since the can was older than me but was pretty surprised when I rotated my tires on their next cycle and the rotors popped loose. Didn't seize to the hub like they usually do. Getting those off nearly did me in since the car came from Jersey.

The amount of rust would've made you believe they never rotated the tires..
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:45 AM
  #35  
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yeah, we use way too much salt on the roads around here. I've had to take off rotors with a sledge hammer. That's why i put a thin coat of anti-seize between the hub and rotor. Every time you need to remove a rotor with that sort of force you risk breaking something else. Reusing rotors is also a non-starter given how much corrosion you get between brake jobs
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Old 08-03-2017, 12:05 PM
  #36  
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We use salt here in my area of MD but North of Delaware must have some next level stuff. My Grandparent's (NJ residents) Accord was the same way. Stuff could hold a NASA rocket together.
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:37 PM
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This was the one I used before I heard to use silicone. It's synthetic based and waterproof. As long as it's not petroleum based it won't hurt the rubber boots.

Permatex 85188 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube, 0.5 oz. Permatex 85188 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube, 0.5 oz.
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Old 05-28-2018, 02:01 PM
  #38  
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Thanks super easy!
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Old 10-18-2018, 05:14 PM
  #39  
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If you have the sport calipers and a impact wrench, floor jack, and needle nose pliers, it shouldn't take you more than an hour to do all 4. Don't know about the regular calipers but the sport calipers are so easy since the only thing you have to unbolt is the wheel. You can push the caliper back in with your hand. Just pull the pad out half way, to get some leverage, and squeeze. I timed how long it took to do one wheel including putting the wheel back on and it was less than 13 minutes. Grease the new pads in the house before you start and it should take maybe 10 minutes.
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Old 11-04-2018, 12:08 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Buckeye G View Post
Ok guys I decided t change my front and rear brake pads today. Since I wasn't able to find a DIY for it I made one. Ive never made on before so sorry if it isn't that great.

Id say its a 5 out of 10 on the difficult scale. It took me a few hours to do. The fronts take the longest. You do need a little bit of mechanical knowledge.

I'm not responsible for any issues or problems that my arise from following this DIY.


Ok here are the tools that I used

21mm socket for my stock lug nuts
22mm socket
12mm socket
19mm socket
needle nose pliers
19mm open end wrench
torque wrench
2 smaller flat head screw drivers
rubber mallet
1/2 inch and 3/8 inch ratchets
3 inch c clamp

Attachment 170983

Ill start with the front

Take off the wheel.

Remove the bolt with the red color on the right and also the nut straight across from it on the left. This is just to loosen the brake line so you can move the caliper around. Just leave the 2 bolts that hold the bracket on alone. Also unclip the hose behind the red bolt so its not in the way.

Attachment 170984


Attachment 170985

Attachment 170986

Now loosen up the 2 22mm bolts that are on the rear of the caliper. There is one at the top and bottom. They are very tight and I used a ratchet and rubber mallet to loosen. DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT LOOSEN UP THE 4 SMALLER BOLTS AT THE TOP ON THE REAR OF THE CALIPER. These bolt the caliper together and will make you loose brake fluid. You can see the 2 of the 4 bolts in my picture they have a L and the other has an S on it. The second pic is one of the 22mm bolts.

Attachment 170987


Attachment 170988

Ok now take the 3 inch C clamp and use it with the old brake pads still in the caliper and compress the pistons in the caliper. I took a piece of rubber and put it on the outside of the caliper so the clamp wouldn't scratch the paint or the Infiniti lettering on the outside of the caliper.

After you get them compressed take out the clips holding the 2 bars on the top of the caliper.

Attachment 170989

Now pull the pins out and remove the large top piece. I went ahead and put the caliper back on the car but didn't tighten it down. You will have to reattach the square block that the brake line goes to before you reattach the caliper. If you have the pistons compressed all the way down you can install the pads with the caliper back on the car. They will slide in through the top of the caliper. Just make sure you have your shims and brake lube on the back of the brake pad.

Now re tighten the 2 22mm bolts the red bolt and tighten everything back up. Don't forget about the line you unclipped earlier.

Now reinstall the wheel and do the other side.

Rear Brakes

Take off the wheel. Now you have 2 19mm bolts to remove to take off the caliper. The top one in the pic has a green stripe on it. You will need a open ended wrench for the bottom bolt because you cant get a socket on it.

Attachment 170990

That is all you have to take off on the rear. Now repeat compressing the pistons as you did on the front and reinstall the caliper on the car and install your new brake pads. Tighten ever thing up and reinstall your wheels.

Sorry if i missed anything.
Just noticed that in your pic you have the big metal piece backwards that hold the brake pads in. You'll notice that at the top and bottom that the prongs that stick out are angled. They push the pad away from the rotor when you let off the pedal. The guy in the video has them the right way.
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