So I didn't read completely through this thread before replacing my HID bulbs (to 6k). I unscrewed the screws above the pentagon thingy to get the whole thing out then switched everything and put them back in. I'm not 100% certain I got it in exactly as it was before I took it out, but it is secure. Is it possible to screw up the aim/direction of the bulb if I do this? Either I'm just not used to the different type of light, or I think it may be shooting too low now...

 

^that was a mistake to unscrew that. The metal bracket just unlocks you don't have to unscrew it. But if you got it back then don't worry about it

Read the DIY to adjust your headlights if you think they are too low

 

So I got my Philips Ultinon d2s HID's in proceed to swap my bulbs, after reading thru some of this thread here's what I found to work the quickest, you really dont need to take the tire off, just turn them in...I popped out only 2 the plastic clips and folded the plastic housing dont holding it with one hand and reaching and unscrewing the cap and HID connector, unlocked both metal brackets (can be done your fore finger while holding the bulb between your thumb and middle finger) and vuala! I initially started with the passenger side and took the tire off since this was my first time and I wanted to have more room to see what I was looking at, once I did..piece of cake did the drivers side in less than 2 min. Here's pics of the passenger side swap, note this is during peak FL sunshine so its a lil hard to tell...but you def see the diff
w/


w/o


comparison

 

when i was replacing my stock headlights the little brown bar (dont know what its called) broke..
pic:

When i saw that, i put it back in and tested it to see if it turned on...it did. but i only left it on for like 10 seconds. 1) what is that bar for and 2) is the light compromised?

on a brighter note..the VLEDS 6000K HIDs look pretty damn good....very light hint of blue...my first thought was "they look stock" but you can see a bit more crystal blue..looks classy as heck with the MW

 

It's just insulation for the grounding wire of the bulb. The electric current flows through these bulbs differently from a conventional filament bulb.

 

some pics.

in all pictures i have: all stock lights on the drivers side
on passenger side: 1) chrome turn signal, 2) VLEDS 6000K headlight, 3) VLEDS 5 SMT parking lights, and 4) stock fogs.

Chrome turn signal. (the chrome one burns less bright and a little more red):

Another

w/Flash, headlights off, fog lights off, parking lights on

w/Flash, headlights on, fog lights off, parking lights on

w/Flash, headlights on, fog lights on, parking lights on

no flash, headlights off, fog lights off, parking lights on

no flash, headlights on, fog lights off, parking lights on

no flash, headlights on, fog lights on, parking lights on

 

But will the bulb still work fine? Or should I consider it unusable?

 

Yes, the bulb should still work. I did the same thing to my driver's side bulb on my BMW and it's worked fine.

 

I tried this yesterday just to change my PARKING LIGHTS, but I failed.
I took the wheels off and all the small clips, but I couldnt take off the plastic cover that covers the front area.
I have a stillen splitter that is bolted in under the front bumper with the plastic thing and the plastic thing didn't move out of the way.
Can you guys describe more specific how to remove that plastic thing?
or do it from the top without removing the wheels just for city light replacement?

 

If you are talking about the plastic wheel well cover, you literally just take out all the clips and pull on it. It will come out, don't worry you wont break that plastic.

From the top, just look outside to see where the light is and use that as a guide to where it would be on the inside. Then feel for the small tab and twist to unlock it then pull straight towards the rear of the car. Reverse to put it back in :bigghtumpup:

 

just do it from the top... take off the airbox and reach in and grab the flat tab thats sticking out...turn that counterclockwise of course. its not terribly easy, wear some gloves so your hands wont get too scratched up. putting it back in is easier.

 

You have to make sure the bolt at the end of your splitter is not also grabbing the wheel well. If it is, you'll have to unscrew that. But there are also 2 (I think) screws on the underside holding the wheel well to the bumper.
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FIRST: your lights are nasty i like the fogs down below and those projectors are different obvioulsy they're pretty sick where did you get those?

SECOND: After all the DIY instructions all i need to do to install my hids and fogs is open my hood stick a flash light down by the intake tubes reach my small hands down there, twist and unplug clips, no screwing and put the new bulbs in the old spots? is this correct? i mean that sounds like cake. Another thing though is I here nothing about ballasts for the fogs. I have an HID upgrade kit for the fogs it comes with a battery or ballast box that i need to mount down by the fogs. What is the best way to do that?

 

thats a 2010 Sedan, it's a bit different.

 

oh really no **** the projectors and fogs all different like i've never noticed that before i'm surprised i haven't noticed the difference before.