Can anyone with experience with detailing and scratch/swirl removal help me with application. I've tried doing it twice but wasn't successful. I know they can come out and that I am doing something wrong. Listed below is what I have for my next attempt.

Porter Cable (4’ backing plate) wish I had gotten 6’
Orange (Light Cutting) and white (polishing)
Meguiar's M105
Meguiar's M205
BFWD Sealant
I tried this procedure before but I didn’t do a good job. I am a DIY type of guys and I’m usually successful in most things when I am following directions. My questions are:
§ How much of the M105 and M205 do I apply to the pad? How much area can I cover with the suggested amount
§ How much pressure should I apply?
§ What speed should I have the PC? For cutting and then polishing
§ When should I wipe?
§ Should I clay the car? I’ve never done this before so is it necessary to do?
§ How do I care for the pads after use?

Please add any helpful tips as well.

 

Sorry, I meant to answer your PM about this and got busy and forgot that I hadn't. My bad. I'll post here what I was going to PM you so everyone can benefit.

One of the best things you can do to learn detailing is read, read, read. Go to Autopia.org and spend lots more time reading than posting. You have complete novices and experienced top notch pros there. I'll be petty easy to figure out which is which.

What I'd suggest personally is this:
1) Bite the bullet and get a 6" backing plate and pads if you can. Not absolutely necessary, but it will save you a ton of time and effort.
2) Definitely use clay on the whole vehicle if you never have. You know you're doing it right by touch. Once the car is clean, rub your hand across it and feel the surface contaminants you can't see. It'll feel somewhat rough. This dulls your finish. Use a detail spray or clay lube generously to keep the surface wet and rub the clay over a small area at a time. Look at what came off on it. Then spray and wipe down the area you just did. That's how it's supposed to feel. Slicker than owl ****. Personally I don't wash after the clay if I'm going to polish, I just spray and wipe it down well with detail spray or something like Meguiar's M34.
3) Polish with the M105 on the orange, followed by the M205 on white. You may be able to finish the M105 down fine enough for your taste and not even need the M205, but if you use it it will give you an even better finish.
4) After polishing, wash the car again before applying the BFWD. It will have a shine and slickness that's unbelievable if you did it right. It is pretty long lasting too depending on climate, how often you drive, and if you park outside or inside.

As far as how to proceed with polishing using the Megs, slightly dampen (not soak) the pad with water or pad conditioner first. I use the Megs M34 or CG pad conditioner but water works. Then prime it by putting a couple of dime sized dollops of polish on the pad and work it into the cells thoroughly with your fingers. Then I use apply the polish to the pad in a thin line in a spiral (just how it works for me). Start slow like speed 2 to simply spread it around. in a 2'x2' area using light pressure. That's the size I typically work. After it's spread out I increase to speed 4 or 5 (I usually use a Flex) and make SLOW passes (1" per second) using moderate medium pressure. You don't need to press hard, let the polish and pad do their work. Slightly firm pressure to polish out a deep scratch but use finesse. Too much pressure will cause it to overheat. Feel the surface with your hand, if it's warm to the touch let it cool off and use less pressure. Contrary to what some say, you absolutely can burn paint with a PC if you use an aggressive polish, high speed, and too much pressure. I know this for a fact. Across and back, then up and down. Work the polish until it looks watery rather than chalky. I make 4 to 6 passes usually. The polish should almost be completely gone when you've finished. If it's not dissipating as you make progressive passes you are using too much or your pad is too wet. Wipe down with a SOFT MF towel and inspect. If the polish doesn't wipe off easily (it should) use a little detail spray and wipe it off. If it looks good, move on. Apply more polish as needed. You may be able to polish a couple areas with one application depending on how many passes yo make or you may need to reapply for each section. Get a feel for it. If you've got deeper scratches you can consider using a more aggressive pad (yellow), compound (M95) or both only on the deeper scratches or swirls. Clean pads as soon as you're finished. As they get dirty while I'm working, I replace them and put the dirty ones in a bucket of hot water with LC pad cleaner to soak, about a half a pack in 2.5 gallons of water. When I'm done I work the polish out by hand and rinse them very well. Wring then spin them dry and store somewhere clean The washing machine will screw them up.

I apply BFWD on a soft foam applicator by hand. Just wipe it on thin and even and let it dry. Wipe off with a soft MF and you are done. If you want to top it with carnauba wax for amazing depth and gloss, wait at least 12 hours (I wait 24) before applying the wax. Done.

Hope this helps.

Also the Detailing Guides on Detailed Image web sites can be really helpful.
Detailed Image - Premium Auto Detailing and Car Care Products

 

Thanks BB. I thought twice about it and realized that others may want the info too.

Great write BTW. I'm in the process of placing a new order to Detailed Image so I will just get the 6'. I will also do the clay. Speaking of that, can I wash and clay my car one weekend and then rewash it the next and then just go into scratch/sqirl removal? I suspect that wash/clay/scratch removal/sealant application will take up an entire day? I'd like to minimize if possible.

 

Sure. Waiting until the next week after you clay before polishing it won't be a problem.

 

I'm about to do my own scratch/swirl removal and I was planing not to clay. Will I still get good results? I'm using a PC with Menzerna Products.

 

Polishing vs. Detailers clay

Although they are both abrasive process they are very different; detailer’s clay removes surface contaminants. Polishing removes surface scratches and levels the surface to provide a reflective surface


TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki –““Surface preparation prior to polishing” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...ml#post1489935

 

Claying is an option as is everything else. It definitely has it benefits so it simply comes down to whether or not you want to spend the time and effort to do it. I've never done it but from what I've researched it definitely has it benefits.

 

Some good information in this thread clay bar is very important. It clears the way for remaining work... Literally. I give mine a good clay bar twice a year and then a full Zaino treatment. Usually takes a majority of the weekend.