This may be a silly question but is there any special care needed/recommended for the self healing paint? Any types of products to look into and/or stay away from?

I've already spent lots of money for lots of good products over the years and already know what I like....but if it will preserve my finish, I will be glad to add to the list of tried and true.

 

Correction - use a firmer pad that has lees surface resistance or an LC Purple Foamed Wool and Menzerna PO 203S or PO 106 FF polish. You could also add more surface lubrication (Gloss- it Pad Prime) alternatively apply polish with an orbital polisher #4-5.

 

Regular maintenance of the self healing clearcoat is about the same as typical paint. You don't have to use any special shampoos, sealants, waxes, etc. Per Infiniti, it is recommended that the car is not polished with an abrasive polish (of any sort - even ultra fine), however, claybar is fine. And you really shouldn't have to use it in my experience.

 

Hmmm...but clay is abrasive. Strange.

And...what polish doesn't have a mild abrasive? I thought all (most) polishes have at least fine abrasive properties.

 

You are correct. Claybar does contain abrasives but it does not perform abrasive actions like a polish does. When used properly, detailing clay is not abrasive to your car’s paint; it is abrasive to paint contamination.

True polishes contain abrasives, yes.

 

Hmmm...that kind of takes some of the fun out of detailing.


I'd hate to see someone who doesn't do their own detailing (or doesn't know they have this kind of finish) go to a detailer that doesn't know that their car has this kind of finish. Could be a mess.

 

from what i can understand, self healing paint takes the same healing mechanisms (prepare yourself) some organisms of the Echinodermata phyla (think starfish) use to regrow severed limbs . chitinous exoskeleton that essentially reattaches itself, IIRC. you need SUNLIGHT! leave your car in the SUN to help reattach itself, or self-heal.

i'm smart. (i'm sure someone'll correct me lol)

 

The paint isn't that bad... use like a fine clay to smooth and do what you would normally do... Just have to avoid generating a lot of heat... which means you're going to be using slightly firmer pads to accomplish the same job... but it'll get done faster (just have to be careful you don't spend too much time in a area and burn ur paint)... and expect to do a lot of passes over the clear to bring it to a real shine. I think my number was like 5 or something.... which kept the clear coat cool to really polish it out. but to sum it up... heat is the enemy... it can cause swelling with these types of clear coats

I found that zaino works really well on this paint... I do a z-18 clay, followed by a Z5 if there's obvious swirls, then a Z2-zfx with a z-CS to seal.. and do light maintenance using finishkare fk1 and a california duster... if it's got stuck on dirt then I just have to rewash the car...

this thing I don't get with infiniti paint in general... is why it's so prone to chipping... I've never owned car that chipped this much... I have to like respray my hood pretty soon it's gotten so bad... I mean sure these fluorine type clear coats are cutting edge and are designed to preserve luster longer... but damn...i'll take a BASF coat any day

 

[You are correct. Claybar does contain abrasives but it does not perform abrasive actions like a polish does. When used properly, detailing clay is not abrasive to your car’s paint; it is abrasive to paint contamination.]

Perhaps I need more coffee, but could you explain how an abrasive is that selective, i.e. it only abrades contaminents that are adhered to the paint but not the paint itself?