just wondering how people apply their detailing products onto their cars. I want to start detailing my car on my own and Im not sure if i should use a orbital buffer or do everything by hand. Thanks in advance for the feedback

 

It depends on what detailing products you are applying.

Polishes - I use my PC 100% of the time using my different polishes. Using an abrassive polish by hand will yield you minimal results at best.

Glazes - I apply my glazes with my PC as I find it superior than by hand. You will still need to apply some by hand in the hard to reach spots that the PC can't reach

Sealants - Like glazes, I've typically used my PC and a finishing pad to apply my sealants. Using the PC will provide you with uniform coverage on your paint surface, however you'll use more product in the process. I've recently started using Menzerna's FMJ and the product is soooooooo easy to use that I have been applying it by hand. Again though, you'll still need to apply some sealant by hand in the places that a PC can't reach.

Waxes - IMO, paste waxes should NEVER be applied via machine. Applying your favorite Carnuba by hand is the ONLY way to go.

 

both.

Orbital buffer will save you time and energy plus gives you a better finish but hand is good if you put in enough time and pressure.

Hand is better than nothing, lol, just keep it lubricated. LOL!!

 

I bought the Porter Buffer and a swirl polish and I ended up with white powder in every crack and in the truck that took weeks to get rid of. What am I doing wrong?

 

By hand but I am a machine.

 

Foresite, make sure what you are using is for an orbital buffer. Also you should be careful when applying the wax etc's to not get them in the cracks, on plastics etc. Then when done removing use a microfiber towel to remove the residue.

 

use my UDM for polishing, do everything else by hand

 

+ 1 Million... Totally depends on the product.

I think it's pretty well stated in the forums the type of buffers that we recommend a random orbital buffer like the PC 7424 over any rotary buffer. Just wanted to make this clear and explain why. Rotary buffers are more apt to cause damage, as they have more powerful motors, generate more heat, pressure, and speed. When used incorrectly they can introduce new swirls and other imperfections or even cause uncorrectable damage to the paints clear coat. This is why you often see so many cars driving down the road with massive "rotary ghosting" (that's what pro detailers call it).

I recently found the below table on a website showing the differences... Very interesting and informative:

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 width="100%" border=1><TBODY><TR><TD align=middle width="25%" bgColor=#000099>Factor</TD><TD align=middle width="25%" bgColor=#000099>High-Speed Rotary</TD><TD align=middle width="25%" bgColor=#000099>Random-Orbital</TD><TD align=middle width="25%" bgColor=#000099>Manual (By Hand)</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>Ease of use</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>time and care needed to do it right</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>pick it up and go</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>(I hope this is obvious)</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>Likelihood to cause paint damage</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>improper use will cause swirls and excessive paint removal</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>you have to work very hard to damage paint</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>minimal,
other than streaking</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>Results</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>absolutely the best-- highest gloss and deepest shine</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>much better than manual, but cannot compare to high-speed</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>uneven at best</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>Effectiveness (especially on heavy paint damage)</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>potentially eliminate all damage</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>paint looks much better than it did, but some damage still remains</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>forget it</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>Learning curve</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>requires extensive training and/or much experience to master</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>requires very little training and experience to master</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>"just open
the bottle, pour it on, and get started, big guy!"</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>Amount of chemical required</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>may require slightly more than orbital, but not nearly as much as manual</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>very little product used (can be 75% less product than manual)</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>"you better buy some extra, cause you're gonna need it!"</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>Primary advantage</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>absolutely best result, especially on heavily damaged paint</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>effective and efficient: easy to use and even application of smaller amount of product</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffcc00>no equipment investment required</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>Primary disadvantage</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>higher potential to cause paint damage; time required to master</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>somewhat limited results (compared to high-speed)</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right width="25%" bgColor=#ffff00>it takes too dang long</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

But will the Porter 7424 remove swirl marks with the proper products

 

Absolutely! That's what it's for. As long as you have a good abrasive like one of the Poorboys SSR products, you can make good progress on removing swirls. Keep in mind though that it is not all about the product... Technique plays a big part of it as well.

 

Ohh Im sure its about technique too but the products that I have now are no match for Poorboys ect.... I have Pepboys specials which will be in the trash soon enough

 

If you like Poorboys, try Menzerna's line of products... A bit more expensive, but well worth it. I use both... One of my favorites from PB is Natty's Blue!

 

i'm becoming a pretty hardcore diy guy since I started attending a detailing course. I bought two machines. One is a dual orbital and the 2nd is a high sped rotary. The high speed really took the scratches off of my paint and looks very good now. The high speed costed me about $300 and the rotary about the same. I figured 2 details would cost the same as me having these machines myself and the ability to work on it at anytime. It's kinda therapeutic