Car Care & Detailing Washing, waxing, cleaning, caring.

Ask a Professional Detailer... Brought to you by Detailed Image

Old Oct 8, 2008 | 09:17 AM
  #616  
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Originally Posted by benhoffmann
Ok so I posted this question in a different thread and it was recommended that I come here and ask the question...I got my G37s in Blue Slate Debadged this sunday and after waxing and polishing over and over again you can still see the faint outline of the "INFINITI" logo and the "G37S", besides for the small chips I got which I don't understand how that happened bc it's just adhesive holding the badges on (but I ordered touchup paint; hope it comes out nice). Any suggestions? I tried compound, turtle wax, goo- gone, WD-40, and even lighter fluid, and yet I still see the outline in the sunlight. HELP!!!!
I replied to your PM, but wanted to copy the reply here for others to benefit.

The reason you see a shadow of the place you debadged your G is because the paint surrounding the emblems had lots of imperfections and where you removed them does not. To blend in the finish, you need to properly polish your vehicle. Chances are if the shadows are very noticeable, you can benefit from polishing your entire car. The fading of your paint is most likely due to improper washing and drying techniques.

First thing I'd decide on is if you want to tackle this job yourself or pay a professional to polish your vehicle. Polishing is the most tedious and time consuming step of the detailing process and should be done with a quality buffer such as the Porter Cable 7424 or Flex XC 3401 VRG. I'd recommend pairing this up with a two step polishing combo, such as Menzerna Intensive Polish followed up by Menzerna PO106FF for optimal results.

In any event, properly polishing your paint is your answer to removing the shadow effect you see on your paint.

For touching up your paint, make sure you wet sand the paint blobs down after you've touched them up to even the touch ups with the rest of the paint. If you're going to tackle the touchups, you'll need some polishes and a buffer to remove the wet sanding marks.

Originally Posted by NIGHTLFEphantom
what is the best recommended clay bar to use on my BO? I'm thinking about purchasing a full kit to detail my car since it still has scratches and swirl marks from the dealership prep... right now to wash the car I use the Meguire's Gold Class car wash, Meguire's quick detailer, Meguire's tech 2.0 wax. I'm also looking for something to keep my interior moist.
Since you have a black car, you'll want to stick to a fine grade clay bar, such as the Chemical Guys 180g Clay, to minimize the chances of marring the paint when you clay. It's always recommended to polish after claying to restore the clear coat to it's maximum level of depth and gloss. If you have heavy overspray or really bad contamination, then you may want to opt for a medium grade clay bar. Using a medium grade bar will ensure you will need to polish the paint after using it.

To keep your interior properly protected from UV fading, while giving a factory matte finish, consider 303 Aerospace Protectant. This product works wonders on plastic, vinyl, rubber and leather and helps preserve these surfaces.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 12:14 PM
  #617  
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Hey George!

Thanks for a fast shipping of my products, I already tested them out last night. Your products are great and packaging was awesome. Definately will shop for more.

Neil
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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 12:43 PM
  #618  
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Originally Posted by n_jay888
Hey George!

Thanks for a fast shipping of my products, I already tested them out last night. Your products are great and packaging was awesome. Definately will shop for more.

Neil
Neil,

Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad your order arrived quickly and safely.

If you have any questions on anything, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Kind Regards,

George
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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 03:09 PM
  #619  
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From: Clifton Park, NY and NYC
Originally Posted by NIGHTLFEphantom
what is the best recommended clay bar to use on my BO? I'm thinking about purchasing a full kit to detail my car since it still has scratches and swirl marks from the dealership prep... right now to wash the car I use the Meguire's Gold Class car wash, Meguire's quick detailer, Meguire's tech 2.0 wax. I'm also looking for something to keep my interior moist.
any suggestions?
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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 09:29 PM
  #620  
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Detailing my girlfriends car, using an LC Yellow Pad, and Menzerna SIP with a Flex 3401, and still can't down to the imperfection, should I step up to Power Gloss, and a Purple foam wool? Even though the car has an average reading of 105 microns.
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 07:36 PM
  #621  
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Originally Posted by NIGHTLFEphantom
any suggestions?

Lexol makes a great interior lineup, so does chemical guys which can be found at detailedimage.com
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 10:54 AM
  #622  
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Originally Posted by NIGHTLFEphantom
any suggestions?
See suggestions I made above.

Originally Posted by Seer
Detailing my girlfriends car, using an LC Yellow Pad, and Menzerna SIP with a Flex 3401, and still can't down to the imperfection, should I step up to Power Gloss, and a Purple foam wool? Even though the car has an average reading of 105 microns.
Power Gloss would be the next logical step with the Menzerna line of polishes. You could test it out with an orange pad, monitor results, then jump to the PFW if it wasn't cutting enough for you. In almost every scenario, I turn to PFW instead of the yellow pad because of the lower amount of heat generated.

Regarding the micron level, it's really up to you how far you want to take down the clear. It'll always be a constant battle, more clear coat vs. less imperfections. To me it sounds like you aren't satisfied with the results of the SIP/yellow, and want to take the shine further. If it's going to bother you, then I say go for it. You're paint at 105 microns is still over 4 Mils, which is considered to be a safe or normal range.

Hope this helps, keep us posted if you decide to try the more aggressive combo and how things turn out.

George
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 01:11 PM
  #623  
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
See suggestions I made above.



Power Gloss would be the next logical step with the Menzerna line of polishes. You could test it out with an orange pad, monitor results, then jump to the PFW if it wasn't cutting enough for you. In almost every scenario, I turn to PFW instead of the yellow pad because of the lower amount of heat generated.

Regarding the micron level, it's really up to you how far you want to take down the clear. It'll always be a constant battle, more clear coat vs. less imperfections. To me it sounds like you aren't satisfied with the results of the SIP/yellow, and want to take the shine further. If it's going to bother you, then I say go for it. You're paint at 105 microns is still over 4 Mils, which is considered to be a safe or normal range.

Hope this helps, keep us posted if you decide to try the more aggressive combo and how things turn out.

George
yea, I've noticed the yellow pad is a marring machine, and most pro's suggest to skip it all together and go right for PFW.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 01:51 PM
  #624  
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I understand that I'm supposed to put the Zaino Clear Seal on, after I use the Z2 and Z5, to extend the durability of those sealants. However, I also purchased some Dodo Juice Supernatural Wax and will be layering it on, should I put a coat of CS after everything, on top of the wax? Or only on top of the Zaino Products?
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 03:07 PM
  #625  
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Originally Posted by Xander
I understand that I'm supposed to put the Zaino Clear Seal on, after I use the Z2 and Z5, to extend the durability of those sealants. However, I also purchased some Dodo Juice Supernatural Wax and will be layering it on, should I put a coat of CS after everything, on top of the wax? Or only on top of the Zaino Products?
Personally, I'd only use Z-CS over the Zaino products. Once you put on Supernatural, I'd only top your car with Supernatural until you want to strip everything off and start over again. Sometimes using a polymer based product over a wax can cause bonding issues, plus it could take away from the look of Supernatural, which I'm sure you won't want to do

George
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 04:41 PM
  #626  
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Alright, so then zaino, zaino cs then supernatural?

Also, should I be using dawn before I do paint correction every time?
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 08:55 PM
  #627  
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Originally Posted by Xander
Alright, so then zaino, zaino cs then supernatural?

Also, should I be using dawn before I do paint correction every time?
It's a good idea to strip everything clean before beginning a full detail, using Dawn is one option. Another option instead of washing with Dawn is to use an Isopropyl Alcohol & distilled water mixture as a quick detailer with a microfiber towel.

Keep us posted on how you like Supernatural

George
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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 03:32 AM
  #628  
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Hi, the dealer I bought my car from cleaned the wheels before I picked it up. However it appears the tyre shine they used got onto the wheels and have stained them. I brought it back to them to get fixed but even they couldn't get the black stains.
I've tried numerous times washing and polishing the wheels but no good, it looks like I've got permanently dirty wheels.
Any suggestions?
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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 09:18 AM
  #629  
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Originally Posted by AussieV36
Hi, the dealer I bought my car from cleaned the wheels before I picked it up. However it appears the tyre shine they used got onto the wheels and have stained them. I brought it back to them to get fixed but even they couldn't get the black stains.
I've tried numerous times washing and polishing the wheels but no good, it looks like I've got permanently dirty wheels.
Any suggestions?
Can you feel the stains if you run your fingers over them? If so I'd consider using a clay bar on them, then follow up with a good metal polish using some light pressure. After to prevent future staining, consider using some sort of wheel sealant or wheel wax.

Hope this helps.

George
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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 03:42 PM
  #630  
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thanks for the reply,
Smooth as a baby's bottom as they say, looks very much like runoff stains eg if you drive through mud and it splashes onto the wheels.
I might still try a clay bar. Will that affect the finish of the wheels in any way?
Thanks again
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