My Quote. Best 4 me so far.
the only thing is the winter incentinve 500 $ rebate. Im not sure if people are getting that and 500 over invioce. Bc im getting 300 over invioce but with the incentive including.
I've noticed in a couple of posts you've said ouch to the $30,000 "buy out". This is a good thing if you are leasing. The higher the better. Lowers your payment. The residuals on this car are very good right now. If you are leasing now with hopes of buying it out down the road, you are better off just buying it right now with the 3.9% financing. Just some thoughts.
As for your deal, it sounds very good.
As for your deal, it sounds very good.
The incentive is offered by Infiniti and has no bearing on the price of the car. You are getting 800 over invoice. Don't include the incentive into the negotiated price of the car. Use it to pay the fees or first month's payment.
So im basically not getting the "300 over invoice" at stated. Its more like 800 over. Which im not looking for. But then agian the incentive is just a winter special not like its going to always be around so it works out well anyway. Corrrect?
So its better if i do 800 over invoice and pay my fees and first month payment up front. But then would the 800 over invoice like grow with the payments like including interest rent fee etc. ?
So its better if i do 800 over invoice and pay my fees and first month payment up front. But then would the 800 over invoice like grow with the payments like including interest rent fee etc. ?
Incentives come and go. They are usually more prevalent in the winter when sales are slow or at the end of a model year when they're trying to clear the units off the lots.
As constantly stated, it's typically best to not put any money down as a cap cost reduction. This applies for cash our of pocket or a rebate.
If it were me, I'd negotiate down to the best price possible, roll in the taxes only and pay for any doc/bank fees in addition to the first payment. Have the dealership apply the incentive to the fees/payments.
Run your scenarios through lease calculators and compare the costs to see what's best for your budget. Remember, you can always put the intended money down into a high interest bank account and draw off it each month to pay part of your payments. This way you're earning interest on the money rather than giving it to a lender in the hopes you don't total your car or have it stolen.
As constantly stated, it's typically best to not put any money down as a cap cost reduction. This applies for cash our of pocket or a rebate.
If it were me, I'd negotiate down to the best price possible, roll in the taxes only and pay for any doc/bank fees in addition to the first payment. Have the dealership apply the incentive to the fees/payments.
Run your scenarios through lease calculators and compare the costs to see what's best for your budget. Remember, you can always put the intended money down into a high interest bank account and draw off it each month to pay part of your payments. This way you're earning interest on the money rather than giving it to a lender in the hopes you don't total your car or have it stolen.
thanks iko, im most likely going to use my incentive for the money due at signing, and im going to try my best to work on the price of the car itself. if i take a away the incentive its an 800 over invoice. So im going to tell my salesman to meet my 500 over. Im going to tell them that i meet with another dealer and there giving me 400 over invoice with out incentive, beat it or match.
Ive been straight foward with dealers so far and its working the way i wanted it to work.
So should i approach dealer as stated?
Ive been straight foward with dealers so far and its working the way i wanted it to work.
So should i approach dealer as stated?
Do you have the other dealer who will do the price you want? If not, I wouldn't bluff. You're worried about a few hundred dollars, I would think if they really want to sell the car they'll meet your price, or you may have to meet them half way.
i think you should worry about the dealer having the IP/Graphite that you want.... i know i've been in touch with you but one dealer can tell you a price and you won't see your car for 3-4 months b/c you have to special order it... again, you have to have your dad sign all the papers so that will bring some bearance into your deal
my father is signing the papers, and the wait for 3-4 really doesnt effect me. i could wait.. its not like its my second car and i would be without a car, its my first soo i should be fine.
Ok so my dealer can do a bit better.
Im at 389 over invioce with 500 incentive including.
where exactly should i get this deal.
try to get 389 over invoice and use the incentive to pay off dues? Or should i just take it off invoice.?
Im at 389 over invioce with 500 incentive including.
where exactly should i get this deal.
try to get 389 over invoice and use the incentive to pay off dues? Or should i just take it off invoice.?
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