Sounds like we have the same goals of keeping the car NA, I think my clutch was rated for 500hp and 450 torque. Like you said before, no way I'm going to reach those numbers without boost. I hit a deer the summer after I installed my clutch and decided to put the car back together myself, at the time the only other performance mod I had was a Stillen Gen 3 CAI. Tossed in Z1 Race filters, throttle body spacers (don't think they're worth it) and Z1 ported upper intake plenum with Z1 lower intake manifold. Car felt great on the highway but at a dig it seemed like it was struggling some, probably because all my mods were bringing air in but not helping to get it out.

Last August I dropped in ISR Long-tube headers, Z1 modular y-pipe, and Z1 Touring cat back exhaust. Other non-power mods included Z1 poly engine mounts, Z1 short throw shifter, Z1 solid shifter bracket bushings, Z1 poly transmission mount, MTEC shifter springs, Inland Empire aluminum driveshaft from CZP, Z1 poly rear diff bushings, Z1 aluminum subframe collars and Z1 sways Front/Rear. Looking to upgrade my ECU to a 2009+ version so I can eventually run flex-fuel and getting Ecutek with remote tune from EAC. "Hopefully" haven enough by end of the summer to also do cams like you want to do along with changing out the gallery gasket seals and other timing components.

Also, wasn't trying to flame on your front bumper, just inquiring. I think it is very reminiscent of the previous G35 coupe front end. I look forward to seeing the progress with your build in the future, happy modding!

 

I knew you weren’t flaming but I expect it from somebody at some point haha it looks just like the g35 bumper to me too. I saw a video about the stock intake cam and the guy was saying it’s “like a race cam” (in his wording) then went into describing about how you’re able to tune the stock intake cam…ever heard of this? I haven’t dived too far into cams yet since I’m not even close to going down that road yet.

do you have a build thread? It sounds like you’ve definitely put time into your g! I assume it’s an ‘08 as well since you want a ‘09+ ECU. In due time I’ll need to do my timing and gasket stuff as well. If you don’t have a thread going post some pictures of your g.

I was on a stretch of highway last night on my way home from work and decided to stretch her legs…all I can say was she gets up and goesI passed an 8th gen civic si and he tried to keep up but wasn’t able to lol no I don’t condone too much on street racing and I was already on it before I saw him.

Do you have that amazing sticky dash as well?? bugs me so much

 

The design difference between the sport and non-sport bumpers from 2007 - 2009 seems almost irrelevant... one lower air dam vs. two. It was the 2010+ Sport bumper that really nailed the look, both on the Coupe and the Sedan.

Odds are pretty good a previous owner repair went with the non-sport bumper for availability or cost reasons. Probably availability.

OP, there's not a whole lot of talk in this forum about aftermarket cams. Be interesting to see what you do.

Also, this is starting to feel like a build thread, so I moved it. Tell me otherwise if you'd rather not.

 

I’ll try to find that video and link it, I found it very interesting. I’ve always wondered if the sedan front ends would fit the coupe. It doesn’t look like it but I always felt the sedans front ends were more aggressive and I like to drool over them haha I’ve contemplated doing a Home Depot lip (garage door rubber molding thing) just for kicks and giggles and if I don’t like it at least I won’t be out $200+for a lip. No I’m not trying to go ricer but wanted to try and see what it looks like. Honestly I’ve always been in love with the mid to late 2000’s Tahoe stock lip. I feel it’s simple and does the job

No worries on moving it! Cams won’t be for awhile but when I do start that adventure I’ll keep everybody updated

 

Yep, I have a 2008 so there are some differences compared to 2009 and even some later models. Everything I’ve read so far states there isn’t much improvement to be found on the intake cam, so I’d be interested to see what you’ve read. I was planning on upgrading the exhaust cams to the JWT C2’s. There are other items that will need switched out not included with the kit such as the spring seat buckets which were upgraded to their DLC (diamond like coating) ones in later models. I will probably get some of those extra parts from supertech performance.

I’ll get a build thread with some pics started when I can, and yes, just started experiencing the sticky dash 2 years ago. Car has 55k miles and was always garage kept. Going to try cleaning it with rubbing alcohol and conditioning it with the 303 aerospace protectant after to see how it does. Luckily no cracks yet.

 

Life’s been busy and in school and that takes up a lot of my time. Now after the clutch has been fully broken in I will say that I love the setup! The bite is something that is manageable for daily driving but aggressive enough, the shifts are crisp (I know they would be better with other upgrades but I’m happy with how it feels) next week I’m ordering a new shift boot **** and MAYBE a short shifter. I’ll also do an oil change next weekend and maybe the trans and diff fluid

 

Last night my dad said that he hears a grinding noise coming from my rear passenger wheel area so it sounds like I might be doing either breaks or a wheel bearing. To me when I listened driving off it sounds like breaks but I won’t be able to inspect it until next week unfortunately

 

I know I’m going to get some hate for this but coilovers… I’m not getting any yet but within the next year I’ll make my purchase. I’m pretty set on Tein advanced z coilover but I would like feedback on anybody who’s ran the maxspeeding rods coilovers. Yes they’re cheaper and I’m aware “you get what you pay for” but I’ve heard from different sources they’ve stepped up their quality. Does anybody have any hands on experience with their coilovers? Positive and negative feedback, thank you!

 

Yesterday I purchased a buddy club short shifter local to me. It was used and got it for $30. With my research some short shifters come with spacers and looking up this specific one on websites (it’s a discontinued item now) it doesn’t look like it uses a spacer. I’m curious if any of you have a buddy club short shifter and if it requires a spacer? It’s already installed in a stock cup. I figured for $30 it’s not a big deal if I’m missing that component and the guy said I shouldn’t need the spacer but wanted to confirm this with you guys

 

I was out yesterday and the good old service engine soon flashed then was solid. I went around the SF Bay Area and wasn’t really driving it hard and I usually don’t in general. I pulled the code and it came up P0302 cylinder 2 misfire. I changed all plugs maybe last September and ever since I had the car the service engine soon light came on and maybe 1.5-2 months it’ll throw a o2 sensor code P2A03 bank 2 sensor 1 so at first I thought it was that. I cleared the code and it never came back for the rest of the day but this weekend I’m going to see what swapping coil packs will do. I keep up on my oil changes and always put the lame 91 octane in it.

when I move to Texas in the next couple months here I plan on going through the exhaust system and hopefully it’ll easily cure that pesky o2 code I plan on doing the thermostat/coolant change to the blue coolant, would like to do diff and trans fluid before I make that road trip

 

I replaced the cylinder 2 coil pack and all is well. I’m ordering all new NGKs from rock auto as well as a new rear wheel bearing since it’s making a bunch of noise. I don’t trust the import direct brand of coil packs but I’ll have that as a back up after the NGKs are in

 

A little teaser for something in the works

 

Hey all! I replaced all of the bank 1 side coil packs and replaced the front coil pack on bank 2. I realized that one of the throttle body bolts was stripped so I stopped and haven’t gotten back to it yet.

Long story, I ordered a 170 degree thermostat but noticed it came with a nipple coming off the thermostat housing of the new one and on the housing from the one that came off my car didn’t have it. I assume it was for an auto with the transmission cooler so after taking the old one off I put it back on, bled the coolant and called it a day. Last Wednesday it was 98 degrees (Cali summer is kicking in) I went to get lunch and noticed my temp gauge almost at the “H” sigh…parked it and the reservoir was empty so I filled it back up and came back that evening and drive it home with no issue. I noticed the fans never came on when the car was running. I ran the fan diagnostic and the fans kicked on and cycled through both high and low speeds…hmm. I figured it was the fan module. Nope, replaced that with no fans still as the car ran. Did a bunch of research and figured if the fans came on during the test then the relays/fuses were good. I also read the ETC sending unit can be a culprit so I purchased one, went to my dads shop and took mine off. He tested it and confirmed the current one was bad. I installed the new one and re bled the coolant system and after about 30 minutes of holding the throttle at 2k then letting off for a few minutes a few times the fans kicked on! so far it’s been running great

 

I forgot to mention that my son had a temperature gun (I’m tired and can’t think of the correct name) reader and it never got over 193 degrees. The gauge on the instrument panel never went over halfway mark and that’s where it always sat until it got hot the other day. I’ve seen videos and read that the gauge should be between the 3rd and 4th mark but I’m happy with the numbers that the gun was reading. I feel more confident that the fans are coming on now and I’m hoping I’ve solved my coolant/overheating issues.

For anybody that hasn’t replaced the ECT, it isn’t hard at all, just make sure you remove the vacuum hose on the back of the intake plenum in the middle to make more room then removal and installation is easy. 19mm deep socket, swivel and LONG extension and you’re in business. If you understand how to use an ohm meter, you can easily test your ECT with a cup of hot water and a cup of cold water.

The module wasn’t bad it’s just the bottom wiring harness clip was a pain in the butt. I took the wiring harness for it out of its routing place on the radiator for about an inch of movement and that helped a bunch. If you take out the drivers air box that frees up a lot of space as well

 

Hey everybody! It’s been a minute and life has been busy. I moved to Texas from CA in August and I’m about 90 minutes south west of Dallas. Texas is a different world than California but in a good way.

Before I moved I was able to get my trans fluid changed so that was a relief being I don’t have much space to work on my car or access to all of the tools I’m usually able to use. I had to change my battery terminal, it was always semi loose no matter how tight I got it and the car started shutting off on me frequently so I changed that and all is well there. I need an alignment and I’ll probably do the brakes after the holidays. I can’t remember if I mentioned my cmc going out but I had that replaced. That was a scary feeling. I also installed a buddy club short shifter and that paired with my Z1 clutch is really nice

I hope all is well with everybody and that everyone has a great Thanksgiving!! Happy holidays to my fellow G fam!

Picture of the short shifter and my $5 shift boot lol for anybody wondering, yes it’s a weighted shift **** and boy does it feel good