Totally agree, fantastic company! If you haven't already, JDM Parts Ninja offers a MT **** to AT conversion kit that I've seen online- many owners rave about it. And thanks for the well wishes, we're quite excited for the new little one!

Side note, @ILM-NC G37S I'm glad you commented as I wanted to pick your brain on the JDM winkers- as you're the only person on the forums I've seen with them. I purchased mine from an eBay seller a few years ago, but it's a slightly different part number than one listed in your previous posts. The lights appear identical, but the change is that this doesn't include any sort of wiring harness:






Any thoughts on how to best wire them? I've tried to source the wiring harness separately to no avail. I've thought of either grabbing the wiring harness from those knockoff Taiwan LED mirrors (but spending nearly $100 for a harness makes me sick); so my going plan would be to try and extend the wires and splice into the headlights. Any insights/ideas you might have would be appreciated as I'm tired of these just sitting in the basement!

 

I already bought that adapter from JDM Parts Ninja and while I feel it is SERIOUSLY overpriced for what it is, the fact is that it does work. My issue is that the knøb sits way too high on the stalk because of the adapter. I was going to take a dremel to the shaft and lower it to a more reasonable height but then the adapter will not fit the actuator rod. It is a work in progress but for the time being it works and looks good.

re: the winkers. Technically, all you would need are two (2) male/female connectors to go from the mirror to the door harness and even this is optional. Should you ever have to remove the mirror assembly- for whatever reason- this connection would allow for easy removal. Now, depending on your current mirror harness, you may have a few empty slots in the connector that you could commandeer. Again, this is optional as plenty of folks have just straight-wired from the winker to the BCM. The hardest part is determining how to pass the wire through the door harness.

The easiest way- also known as the backyard method- would be run to just run a single wire from the red (+) winker straight through the mirror mount, through the door pass-thru (leaving enough slack for flexing), all the way to the BCM where you would tap into the turn signal output signal wire(s). For the driver side you would run the wire under/behind the dash pad/HVAC core, to the passenger side. Obviously the passenger side is easiest as you just need a short wire from the pass-thru to the BCM.

The hardest way would be to source two connectors and a bunch of terminals and pins and go through the hassle of removing the door connectors and pinning in the new wires. It is not hard but can be time consuming. Fortunately the OEM kit had all the pieces else I would have likely opted for the easiest method, plus I already had a crossover wiring bundle from when I installed the power folding mirrors. In the end and with a little planning the install shouldn't take more than a couple of hours with most of the time removing the door panels and running the crossover wire.

You mentioned running the wires to the headlights: while that would be a possibility, I would be weary of passing any wires through the firewall grommets. Yes, I know plenty have done so wiring in amps and other gadgets, but just ensure that you fully waterproof the grommet should you choose this route. We all know the issues these cars have when it comes to water leaks...

Any help I can offer...just let me know... also, you may want to shoot BULL a PM as I know he has a ton of goodies for his wiring harness projects/business and while I can't speak for him, he may be able to help as well...

 

Appreciate the wisdom here, and I agree I'm leary of having any wires through the firewalls as I've already dealt with leaks on this car. The "backyard method" is most likely the route I'll take; as I can't really forsee me removing them once installed. Thanks for the guidance!

 

Raceseng is top shelf stuff. Good choice.

 

Hey Deepan, send me a pic on FB or anywhere of your factory connectors. I might have the connectors or even the pins.

The issue with the clean install is that you'll have to buy a decent crimper but it does please the mind when you can plug and unplug things at your desire.

 

Appreciate it Bull! It might be sometime before I pull the door harness apart- but I'll definitely let you know when I do.

 

Hey, Went to shiftsolutionsco.com and they don't list e-brakes for G's (just Subi's, Miata's, Mustangs and a few others). Where did you get yours? BTW, this is v36_sedan_enthusiast from IG. Thanks!

 

To my knowledge there are no "plug n play" e-brakes for the V36 platform. I purchased a Mustang ****/button as advised by IG: redonaveb who makes these custom handles. There will be some retrofitting to make it work.

 

I contacted Shift Solutions and they forwarded me to Patrick Galligan (redondoaveb@verizon.net) who makes plug-n-play e-brakes for G35s, G37s, 350Zs and 370Zs.

 

Yep Patrick is who I was referring to in my last post. He uses the mustang handles and bottoms and custom fits it to the G37/370z e-Brakes

 

More interior parts came in! Picked up the following:

• Black leather/black stitching Shift Boot, E-Brake Boot, and Armrest from RedlineGoods
• Shift Boot Retainer from Raceseng
• Black "Mustang" Handle and Polished Button from ShiftSolutionsCo

Very satisfied with the quality of all of the components; and will be a substantial improvement over the cheap OEM vinyl. After chatting with Patrick (redondoveb); I've decided not to take on the custom handle project and outsource it to him. Apparently he has an exclusive contract with ShiftSolutionsCo for handle sizes that are specifically machined for the G37/370z (the mustang handle has worked, but Patrick warned that due to how much material would have to be shaved it significantly weakens the handle). After weighing my options I decided to shift the E-Brake components over to him (along with my OEM V1 Handle from my 370z Nismo)- he offered me a steal of a price to do the work as I was providing all the components.

In other news....

The G has unfortunately been stranded in my driveway since last weekend due to what I believe is the infamous "steering lock" failure. After the dash swap, I was able to start up the car with no issues- however due to the current cold temps the batter died (yeah I know, probably should have had it on a battery tender DOH). My dad came over the next day to jump the car, but during that process the screen went blank and I got the lovely "yellow key" indicator.

What's weird is I've been able to get it back in ACC mode- so fingers crossed I'll be able to just pull the fuse and be done with the problem. Unfortunately all this snow has kept me from tackling this project- but I hope to complete it this weekend.

Additionally the hood mechanism got stock (when it rains it pours) so this moved up my hood purchase/new hardware. I received a promotion at work, so after taking care of the adult stuff (taxes, investments etc.) I pulled the trigger on a new Seibon CF hood... scheduled to ship on 3/5!

 

I have a 2008 G35xS and I’m interested in learning more about the 2010+ radio/nav screen swap. Does the Bluetooth audio work with the new screen? Is it just a simple swap and plug and play with the harness you mentioned?

 

Hey there, welcome to the forum- I think I've seen your posts in one of the Facebook groups. Yes with the swap you gain bluetooth, which is a big draw along with the higher resolution screen (I had a '13G37xS prior to this, so I've really been missing these). There's more information on the kit on this post; but it essentially makes it plug and play with no wiring required. I've amassed all the components, just waiting on my harness to arrive.

 

Thank you for the reply!

 

It's been awhile since the last update. Shortly after my last post I worked on getting my G out of the "steering lock" failure. Followed a few guides on the 370 forums, thankfully I was able to get it into ACC mode and then just pulled the fuse. Viola, the car was operational again. Such a silly design...

Work has shifted to "return to the office", so I've been able to live with my new interior for the last few weeks. And I've gotta say, it's quite rewarding to "live" in the transformation. While the exterior still needs quite of work, the interior feels so premium and a blast to be behind the wheel. Speaking of wheels- oh how I've missed that custom flat bottom wheel such a joy over the OEM wheel that was falling apart.

I received the modified Parking brake handle from Patrick, and his work is absolutely flawless and a considerable upgrade over stock:




As my father-in-law (also a car guy) remarked: "dang, that looks like a real performance handle from an OEM" - I couldn't agree more. I also purchased a Raceseng Shift boot retainer and installed the new e-brake along with the RedlineGoods Nappa Leather shift boot. The results are exactly what I envisioned:




Just so in love with it, and the parking brake handle feels sturdy and much more substantial. Glad to be rid of the OEM vinyl boot as well. I'd love to replace the shifter trim down the line as it's a bit worn- but OEM replacements are considerably expensive. I've considered either vinyl wrapping or getting it done in CF, but both of those options would sacrifice the shift gate pattern which I'm quite fond of. I'll probably just live with it for now while I tackle some much needed exterior projects.