Yup across the pond, meaning more than likely customer support for the product will be non existent, unless SOHO will handle that end. Again I haven't done a keep dive into a shifter yet.

Here is the MotoIQ article I was referring to:

https://motoiq.com/project-nissan-37...throw-shifter/

I wonder if you did something different on your install? I'll go look it up on your build thread.

 

I just did a basic install, but I know how annoying that is to have a brand new part that rattles or squeaks. When I had Subarus everyone raved about how good Kartboy shifters were. So I got one and immediately thought it was completely crap quality. Sure enough it rattled like crazy because the bushings were too hard. I got rid of it almost immediately.

 

First track day in G officially booked for Thunderhill West CCW 2/21.

Have a month to get off my lazy butt and get the car ready. Reached out to RCA garage yesterday for pads.

Man it’s been a while but here’s my first and last time out at Thunderhill West CCW. Best time I believe was a very “meh” 1:44. 3:45 and 5:31 marks.

 

So I spent Friday though Sunday working on the 90k service and other add on's. About half my time was spent on the oil cooler and valve cover gaskets alone.


- Valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals - Not super hard but time consuming getting the harnesses out of the way. A lot of brittle clips.

- Spark plugs - OEM Denso's

- PCV valves - Plugged up

- S belt - Gates

- Cleaned MAF/TB

- 3 Re-learn procedures

- Swapped back to stock intakes with AFE Dry Flow Filters

- Clutch fluid - Motul RBF600. Whatever was in there was really nasty with gunky. Found out I already have a Zspeed SS line on the car. Doh.

- Oil cooler - Z1 fully spec'd 34 Row Setrab unit. Routing the lines and hooking them up was the hardest part, they barely have any flex to them.

- Oil change - Valvoline 5w-30 Syn with Wix filter

- Transmission fluid - OEM Nissan 75w-85

- Diff fluid - Redline 75w-90

- Bell race works Diff brace - Super easy and makes a nice difference, very noticeable on shifts. Held off on the busted bushing repair for now.

- Eibach Front and Rear sway bars set on softest settings for now

- Power steering fluid - Redline D6

- Coolant flush

- Gktech 1.3 bar rad cap

- Nokya 3k fog light bulbs

- Bumperplugs.com Bumper plugs to fill the holes where the idiots at the dealer drilled into a pristine bumper.

Really considering catch cans now after opening things up. A lot of oily film from the PCV system in the upper/lower intake manifold and the TB was caked up nicely too. Sorry I didn't bother with any after pictures.









I originally routed the cooler oil lines over the crash beam mount but there was too much line left and I couldn't tuck them, so I re routed them to the bottom and they fit nicely. I was however able to clock the thermostatic plate according to Z1's instructions at 7 o'clock position. Have roughly 1/4" of clearance at the tightest spot.

















Final parts/steps for Phase 1 will be getting the G-Loc pads in once they arrive. At the same time the TE's, Indy 500's, and Z1 20mm Front/15mm Rear spacer with extended studs will go on.

 

Cool!

How come you plugged the PCV? Don't you have to vent to somewhere?

And how come you went with Indy500 instead of a typical 200TW? Gonna have to be very light footed on those G-Loc 12/10's, no?

 

I meant the old valves were completed plugged.

As for the Indy500s, mainly budget and the fact the car is my daily so one set of wheels are tires are good for now. A set of RE71r’s will come later down the line. Seat time is the priority now.

I should be okay with the 500s and 12/10 pads. My old Sumi HTRz3’s did well enough paired with XP10’s. If not it’ll be a nice brake modulation learning opportunity lol, I’ll report back after my track day in February.

 

I remember routing the oil lines being an experiment in flexibility, but not the end of the world. Did your oil lines come with those black insulators installed?

 

Mocking up the lines and thermostatic plate together, removing everything, tightening the rear fitting to the plate, installing the plate, then installing the front line/fitting to the plate worked out the best for me.

They did. It’s a $40 option from Z1 if you purchase the kit directly from them :

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...it-p-4135.html

I nabbed my kit brand new second hand. I also added more hard plastic and rubber protective layers anywhere the lines made contact with the frame and what not.

 

Good to know. I didn't see that when I got my Stillen oil cooler from them, but maybe they did not have the black insulators available then. I used quite a bit of rubber hosing to keep the stainless lines from rubbing anything they were touching. Seems to have held up well over the years so I am sure your lines will last a long time.

 

I’m soo damn pleased with the way she’s coming together. I almost don’t even want to drop her anymore. Just wish the front was a .5” lower. Blah.

I’ll give some more feed back for the sways, oil cooler, diff brace, and pads at the end of Feb.






Pictures don’t really do it justice. Also gonna hold off on the Rays & Volk Racing stickers for now.

 

Looks well good with the Volks on it.

In some of the pics, it looks like you've done the belt molding blackout lol. tricked my eyes

 

Thanks!

lol yeah I see what you mean. The window trims I’ll likely just leave chrome but will be blacking out the center grill portion for the midnight grill look. Also still trying to figure what style trunk spoiler I like.

 

Had to sell my spot for tomorrows track day due to a certain bug going around. Signed up for another event at Thunder Hill West with Speed SF on March 13th though, can't get here quick enough.

 

As you can tell I’m a sucker for a good deal and good deals never appear according to plan. So while I won’t be throwing them on for at least a month because I want to track the G in it’s current config(Sport shocks and springs with 87k miles and eibach front/rear sway bars) and I need to settle on adjustable endlinks, here are my coilovers of choice:




Tanabe Sustec Pro Comfort R(CR) Coilovers with 10k Front/9k Rear spring rates.

Quick recap of goals for the car: Comfortable daily driver first and foremost with enough track-ability for half a dozen or so HPDE days.

My choices for suspension were:

1. Koni Yellows/Swift springs - Because Konis are awesome(and awesomely expensive) and Swift springs are one of best springs you can get in terms of design. Life time warranty so the price can be somewhat justified I guess. The ride height would be just below what I’m comfortable DD’ing but thanks for a few members here that could’ve been easily addressed with poly spacer.

2. Tanabe Pro CR Coilovers - Same 10k/9k rates as the swifts(progressive in the rear). Shock dampening set up for a really comfortable ride. I had the purple Tanabe Pro s0c coilovers on my TSX so they’ll ride similar. After speaking with Tanabe both coilovers are the same. Only difference is the purple vs the red color, no other differences at all. A lot of useable stroke. Designed for the G and not the Z chassis. And the most important factor they can be maxed out at 1/4” drop front/rear for the Sedan according to Tanabes factory specs so I’ll have plenty of headroom to play with.

Top all that off with the fact that I got the Tanabes used with 3 years/10k miles on them for a few dollars over the cost of brand new Swift springs alone it was a no brainer for me.

Lastly, I got bumped up from the waitlist for a track day at Laguna Seca this Saturday!

 

WoWowOWOAH.

Tell me more ab these Tanabe, bruv.

I didn't know this existed as an option.

When are you putting them on??