Yeah Bluetooth adapter should make life easier and I could use it with the EcuTek Connect app to monitor EOT, ECT, and IAT's instead of my Veepak OBD dongle and OBDfusion app.

I've decided on Eugene for a few reasons. One his communication is insane, the previous owner of this Ecutek tuner texted Eugene in the middle of the night and he responded. Not something I would do honestly lol. Two he's local, less than 2 hours from me, so If I need to see him or use any of his services/dyno at his shop it's much more manageable than a 5+ hour drive down to Seb's home base in Socal. Over all it is just a convenience and ease of access thing for me as I believe both Seb and Eugene are phenomenal at what they do.

You're very welcome for the OBD extension recommendation. Glad it made life a little easier for you.

 

Being that you'll be going with Eugene, you should mention that you track the car. I can't think of a better way to obtain logs than a good hot lap. I could have sworn you were tuned already.
Hopefully this gives you the thrill you're looking for. With that being said you'll have to get accustomed to the new tune, mainly the linear power overall and better pick up out of the apex.
Being able to see the data and focusing on this data should give you something to "fix/alter/modify" + a future direction as well. With as little as you drive this car you should see if e85 is something you'll be willing to entertain.
Having an extra 30whp at the track can do the job for most however ECUTEK has shown that it's the road towards forced induction so watch out many end up ecstatic with 500whp to the wheels.

 

That's not the kind of info Eugene asks for. He wants logs gathered from as much driving as you're able to provide, the larger the log the better, and as many files are you're willing to collect. Within that, he wants WOT pulls from a rolling start to the rev limiter, which is the typical ask from remote tuners because it simulates the car on a dyno. So certainly he should discuss his priorities for the car, like track usage, but Eugene works off large data set analysis.

That said, I get the impression this isn't the OP's first rodeo. He'll be fine.

 

Appreciate the input guys, it's always welcome. I'll 100% be having Eugene review a set of logs from a track session/day during the tuning process.
I'll reassess the drivability and ask for his direction post-review/tuning to see what other directions I may want to pursue.

E85 is in consideration, although I'm not expecting a 30whp gain from just switch fuels. The reduction in engine temps would a welcome addition though.

Here is a dyno chart Eugene posted on his FB page of a bone stock 2015 370z tuned on E85, I would be pretty happy with this curve and numbers:






Questions I need to answer before going that route are:

1. How does CA new ECU check durring SMOG work. This could be a non-issue or go on the back burner if I tune after March next year. My registration and SMOG are due then so I'll be good for another 2 years if I just wait until after.
1a. IF SMOG is an issue, how do I remove Ecutek from the ECU without losing my license, can I get that license back without re-purchasing.

2. With E85, I'd run GTR or different injectors and likely a higher flowing fuel pump if we notice the factory fuel pump's duty cycle is maxing out with my set up. I'm hoping it'll be okay though since I don't plan on any power mods with exception of possibly a high flow cat if I'm itching to blow some cash.

3. I would hate to have to swap out the injectors and fuel pump when flashing back to the stock ECU map.

I have experience with dyno and etuning previously with Hondata so I'm sure I'll have no problem with it. Previously with my TSX I used the etune map for daily driving as I had it set up for softer throttle inputs due to my commute. Bumper to bumper with snappy on/off throttle got really old really quick.

During track days I used the dyno tuned map for the exact opposite reasons mentioned above. I also had my tuner review logs from a few sessions just to confirm everything looked when I'm beating on the car.

 

As far as I know CA would confirm that the vin of the ECM matches the car and the rest is making sure it passes the emissions test.
Injectors are a must if you go E, pump changes and injector changes wont effect anything if properly tuned on it's own map. You would need to spend money on a content analyzer.

Something worth mentioning, 2015 tunes though impressive dont pass the test of time, as we get to know these engines better we start noticing where/when they like to sing. Look at K series potential back then vs now.

Reason why I mention that the track is best for logs is you can replicate most parameters without the worry of breaking the law, drivability can be addressed after. With the added power you'll generate additional gravity and introduce or worsen fuel starve.

I suspect you should be making more than that depending on how much time and feedback you give him. Ethanol should not be an issue with emissions nor your current setup either, some HFCs will free up some decent power as well.
He should be able to set a map for emission purposes that you can switch too for these cases. I hope I'm not overselling it but I think you'll love it, especially at the track.

 

That is what CA used to only look for, I had no problem previously with Flashpro. No CEL's, "visual" was good, and easy pass. Now I guess CA can see if your ECU has been "modified" and it is an automatic fail. I need to do more research and speak to a few SMOG techs to gain clarity here.

Like you mentioned larger injectors and pump will be fine on their tuned maps, my concern only arises for SMOG if I can't pass with the Ecutek map on my ECU and I need to remove Ecutek from the ECU. Then the injectors and pump become a hassle.

Eugene was telling me about some software he has that doesn't require the content analyzer. Its been a while and I didn't make any notes but I assume it's similar watching the fuel trims and just switching to the E85 map at the right time. Personally I'd prefer the SpecalityZ analyzer with Ecutek so it'll be a true flex fuel set up and I won't have to worry about map switching on the fly. I like to do as little as possible if you can't tell

Completely with you on the track logs. That is 100% going to happen.
I already have fuel starvation on long right handers like turn 4 at Laguna with anything under half a tank. I usually just top off a few gallons of fuel at the track to manage it. $7+ gallon is yikes. Which also raises the issue of having to carry E85 jugs to the track.

I did not know 2015+ weren't great longevity. Good to know.

Lol I wouldn't say you're over selling anything. I'm sure I'll enjoy the benefits of tuning and e85, it is just a matter of what the cost/benefit/inconvenience level I want to achieve.

 

Great point, BULL. WOT to the rev limiter on public roads can be unnerving, and more than a little risky depending on your location.

 

Fuel starve is definitely something to keep in mind. The fuel pump size wont have much effect under WOT since pressure is regulated and volume will be regulated by injectors. ECUTEK has a base rom map that he can include in one of your maps.
The e85 option is just like you stated, pay attention to fuel trims and adjust until knock. A content analyzer can help filter ****tie gas stations.

On another note, gathering info from the member who did sand bags in the rear, he discovered that about 200lbs will equalize the weight between axles which makes me also note that a full tank of fuel weights about 100lbs. Not as much as the bags however as you chug it down the track, have you felt steering differences in the G at lower fuel levels?
I'm also wondering if the sand bag effect has more to do with a more compressed rear with added camber than the effect of the weight or even a combination of both.


I would love nothing more than a continuous round of shenanigans in this car but I can only do so much down here. I'll track the car one day

 

Added a temporary yaw sensor by pass switch. Looking for a cleaner solution but it’s functional and works for now.



1/2” step bit hole

Interrupter Switch

Interrupter switch

Switch mounted

Switch mounted cubby view

Test length of extra wiring needed to run to the yaw sensor

Wrapped up

Green yaw sensor power wire that needs to be “interrupted”

Tapped with quick connects

Wires ran. Switch above USB.

 

I can't say I've felt the difference while running the fuel levels down during a track day. 1. I don't think I've achieved that level of being "in tune" with the car yet to notice. 2. I get fuel starvation near half a tank at T4 of Laguna so I start the day at a full take and top off before the 4th session most days to avoid the issue all together.

 

So another track day in the books and I learned quite a bit from a private coach. I'm still coming into corners hot and carrying to too much entry speed at times but aside from my driving, the car is exhibiting oversteer that is making it really hard to trust the car from corner entry to exit. If anyone has any idea's please feel free to shoot them out.

Right now as few 370z members have suggested I'm thinking either I'm running out of rear suspension travel that its causing snap oversteer or I've just too way too much front grip and it is ruining the balance of the car causing the back end to break loose before the front.

In this video at points 4:20, 6:20, 9:35, and 12
Snap oversteer at 1:52


In this video at 2:25 I did lose it. I'm not sure why the backend came around soo late but I think I made it worse by getting on the throttle while trying to correct it.:
(youtube is still processing the HD version as of the time of this post)


Here is the set up relative to the issue:

- Tanabe Pro CR Coilovers 10k Front/9k Rear. Pretty damn soft dampening.
- Eibach front bar set to full stiff
- Factory rear bar
- Square 18x9.5 +45 PF01's with square 275/40 MPSS's(+35 front with spacer, still +45 rear. Rear spacers/studs to go on soon)
- G-Loc R12/R10 combo
- Bell Raceworks diff brace
- Aiming for 38 hot front/ 36 hot rear PSI

Fresh alignment specs:

Front Left/Right camber: -.9/-1.1
Front Total Toe: 0
Front Left/right Caster: 5.7/5.8

Rear Left/Right camber: -1.5/-1.6
Rear left/Right toe: .11/.13
Rear total toe: .23

Some random thoughts I've had:

1. The car isn't corner balanced but the ride height is even front/rear at the pinch welds.

2. Could the +10mm front to rear wheel stagger be causing this kind of issue.

3. +2 psi Front tire pressures compared to the rear helped a little.

4. Too much traction upfront compared to the rear is causing the rear to be loose. Should I run a staggered tire set up to reduce some front grip? I really don't want to do that. Unhook the rear bar?

5. I wanted to add more negative camber up front but that will only increase front grip and make the oversteer worse.

6. Maybe add some front spring. 10k front/9k rear might be too close in relation. Going a little passed my knowledge base.

 

Did a little maintenance work before hitting the track again last Friday.
Took care of the heater hose coupler that blows up due to heat, mine came in out 15-20 pieces. I didn't drain the coolant as the connector is at a high point and I wouldn't lose much coolant(I didn't). Just followed it up with a quick bleed. Also added a set of SPC rear camber arms and toe bolts along with a GKTech lockout kit for the camber arms. Will be selling the other two lock out bolts if anyone is interested.

I sold the IPL wheels too so now I just have my track PF01's.



GKTech heater hose connector


SPC 72260 Kit


GKTech Lockout kit


Installed

 

Handling Update: Feels like I've got it all sorted now. Testing was done at Thunderhill West so I guess I'll really know next time I'm out to Laguna(Mid corner tuner 10 snap oversteer) but I think I'm good.

While technically within spec, I don't know where I got my previous .13 toe-in/each side value from but it was way too much. From educating myself more, talking with people I trust, and getting feedback from you guys I dialed the rear toe-in way down but had to run -2 degrees of camber on the factory eccentric bolts. So I grabbed some new camber arms, lockout bolt kit, and toe bolts to get everything exactly where I wanted it.

New specs:

-2.4 Front camber
0 toe

-1.5 Rear camber
0.03D Toe-in/each side

I previously tried .03D toe-in/each side upfront as recommended but the steering became too unresponsive for me, great on the freeway though. Zero road tracking.

Anyway with these settings and hot temps of 37 front/35 rear the car felt very balanced. Turns in nicely and the car stays planted throughout a corner, I'm 100x more comfortable in the car. I don't see myself really changing much on the suspension set up from here on out with few exceptions down the road. 200tw tires once the MPSS are done, adjustable end links and corner balance after corner weighing, and possibly a SPL anti bump steer kit as I feel some binding. Otherwise it's all seat time.

Beat my previously PB of 1:34 by 2 seconds and even saw 1:31 on the predictive timer, just needs a better driver.

 

Way different even from the video perspective.

It seems like the camber arms did the trick. It usually happens when you try to achieve proper angles in the back.

I bought camber arms as well however discovered that the 4WAS arms are a bit shorter and the camber arms are "maxed inwards" and I have a 1.6 camber. I had to drill out the toe slots quite a bit to get 0 toe.
I like that you're running "some" toe since running some should yield a bit more positive on my setup however I really like how your car is handling.

 

I feel like I can tell from the video as well, but then again I was actually there lol

The factory eccentric bolts got me down to 0.03 toe-in, but the camber arms had to be maxed out which was -2 degrees.
Wear wise I wasn't too concerned but from research the multilink set up used on our cars gains a lot of camber under compression and much more than the front. So static camber can be set much lower in the rear than in the front. According to few guys that race this chassis front to rear camber should be staggered by about a degree. This helps with wear, traction, and the cars overall balance.

Slight rear toe-in helped me get back to power sooner without worrying about snap oversteer.

I refer to the MotoIQ tuning guide quite often:
https://motoiq.com/the-ultimate-guid...ng-your-toe/5/

I believe my issue was too much rear toe-in, which according to their table can result in "initial understeer with sudden transition to oversteer"

I also forgot to mention my tire wear is much much better now. After each session I would check tires and the contact patch was getting even usage.
Previously the inside of the thread looked untouched while the outside shoulder was getting hammered.