Is this the craddle you are talking about? Isnt there a front bar that the rad core support sits on?

 

yeah should look more like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/07-15-Infin...-/273798611915..i'm not sure if it comes off or its expected to be welded on ..sometimes the dismantlers go further than they're supposed to

Edit: I thin k the rad support just bolts up to the front of the one in your pic too, some might sell it together or with out it

 

Gotcha, does this cradle replace the stupid triangle front frame that completed rusted out? My cradle ends where the rack and pinion mounts. That one has another cross brace

 

lol yeah everyones rusts out usually ppl just take it off grind off the rust and respray it...it doesn't replace it its just not part of the RWD setup... its only on the AWD cars getting in the way of things adding some extra bracing ..IIRC convertible (coupes) have similar braces added that can be sued with the RWD aluminum subframe too..its only 4 bolts so you could probably just tap the aluminum subframe if it doesnt bolt right up

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/INFINITI-EX...97.m4902.l9144

I picked mine up on Craigslist. To confirm, it just bolts right in. I did the same a couple of weeks back

 

Hmmm.. wonder if I change cradles if I need it? I threw it away thinking a replacement would be cheap...ugh

 

Lots of hours spent porting, I can permanently hear my die grinder now..lol. Debating on whether I should install aftermarket pistons, regardless I want the motor around 12-1 compression. Thinking about having the heads milled and using the stock pistons? Anyone know what the piston to valve clearance is on a stock motor?

I found a local guy to do my transmission who seems very knowledgable. New modded valve body with tcm tune updated, rebuild and strengthen converter (3k stall) and upgrade the clutches for about $1500. That makes sense to me...how these guys are charging 5k for a upgraded stock transmission is ridiculous. **** for 5k I could buy a Liberty 5 speed. I also found a company who makes custom torque converters that quoted me 400-500 to upgrade the stock converter






Not done yet, ugh



Matching the exhaust ports on the head to this gasket. Much larger than stock. Should flow as good as any short header Would be a great mod for the California guys. I'm going to knock the cats out also. Should be a record setting number with stock exhaust...lol

 

Even if I turbo this down the road, that is if I can get the transmission lined out, I think the stock pistons can easily handle 700-800hp, especially on e85. Can someone convince me that I need forged pistons?
N/A I definitely dont need forged pistons and if I boost it, itll probably only see 12-15psi tops. Once you get past the 700ish hp level things start getting really expensive and I'm not convinced yet I can get a 7at to even hold that....

 

LOL it took me 20 hours to port/polish my lower intake... One day I'll have do everything else I like to see how your torque converter turns out. I been thinking about upgrading mine for a while.

 

I was going to send the converter off to be modified, but I think I'm going to let this local guy take a stab at it. $1500 out the door for upgraded clutches, converter, tcm and valve body... yea I'll try that for $1500 first, lol. I've gotta have a converter, wait till you see the heads finished...its gonna be a dog under 3k rpms.

I think I'm gonna just run the full stock exhaust and see what it makes to the tire. I can change it later... wouldn't be surprised if it puts down 350ish with stock exhaust, lol

 

Waiting on the next part order, getting closer Just need to get valve job when I'm done porting and the engine can be assembled. Went ahead and upgraded the pistons, just couldn't put the stock ones back in...lol
- Eagle rods
- JE 11.5-1 pistons
- JWT C2 cams
- GTR injectors
- ARP main/head studs
- Innovate methanol 4 in 1 gauge (going to mount it in the driver side vent)

 

Transmission is going to be more in the 3k range since I opted for a billet input shaft. Throttle bodies ported polished and gauge mounted (pics have been added back a few posts)
Build is already changing, lol. Dropping compression to 10-1 just incase this A7 holds 20psi. Converting from awd to rwd to free up space (and drop alot of weight) for a front mount single. Turbo wont go on till later in the year or next year.

 

Well I found out how far you can port these head castings, lol. Scrapped both heads taking to much material out, $300 mistake, ugh. I cut one of the heads in half to look at the cross section. You can only port about .080 in any direction on these heads without weakening the structure of the head. Started on the new set and have 2 weeks to get them finished, before they go to the machine shop.

Getting a valve job, resurface, hardened exhaust valve seats, valve seals, JWT C2 exhaust cams installed and adjust lash, upgrading intake valve springs to the new style beehive springs, blocked decked, lined bored, honed, additional deck stanchions installed and balance the rotating assembly. Should have everything back by 3/1 then the transmission is next.

Decided to keep the AWD and convert to the 3.69 gears. For now I'll use a quaife 1 way LSD in the front and an OEM VLSD in the rear. If I break the VLSD I'll upgrade the rear. I'm already about 5K over budget otherwise I would do the rear now. I'll be curious to see how the car launches with the front LSD and a 3K converter, should get out pretty good I would think.

Still researching FI options, 95% set on a turbo but would entertain a blower if I find a deal on a used kit. Right now I'm leaning towards doing the biggest rear mount single that this motor will light up. I'm new to FI so still doing research on all the turbo options and piping size. Hopefully I can cut the flanges off a set of headers, flip them and then run a cross over upfront under the balancer. I can use flat or oval piping for additional clearance, Spintech makes some awesome tubing for tight places. I would run the hot side down the passenger side following the stock exhaust path and then run the cold side back up the drivers side - to keep it away from the hot side. Hot side will be coated and maybe wrapped to hold as much heat as possible.

Questions I am researching, incase any of you have recommendations

- Best cheap turbo to start with? I can upgrade to a better/bigger turbo once the motor gets broke in and the car is running properly. Not to mention I want to make sure the oiling setup is working well before using a more expensive turbo. Looking for something under $500ish

- piping diameter (thinking 2-2.5'' but not sure how exactly this impacts spool time, efficiency or hp)

- Intercooler? (flexfuel tune and I'll be on e85 the majority of the time. With it being a rear mount I was thinking no intercooler to eliminate piping and help spool time)
- If no intercooler, best way to split the charge pipe to both throttle bodies?

- Exhaust wrap on the hotside?

- Looking for a quiet, as close to stock, exhaust note. Thinking about running a 18'' resonator before the turbo and a Borla XR1 muffler after the turbo (The XR1 is a bad *** straight thru muffler)

- Need to replace the rear bumper since it will be single exhaust. Hate seeing the extra cut out for duals when running a single pipe. Will a bumper off an older single exhaust car work? aftermarket? something cheap

- Springs? I want to delete the rear spring perches but do not want to run a full set of coil overs. I'm looking for my cheapest option to address the front wheel gap. I have a brand new set of KYB struts/shocks already, but if there is a better solution I can dump them. I am not concerned with cornering, but want something that rides as smooth as possible on the highway.
- Rear sway bar - Do I keep the stock bar or upgrade to a Nismo? Since its awd I'm no longer concerned with weight transfer. Might help if I run a softer spring?


- Spare tire - I want to cut out the spare tire well and cover it with a piece of sheet metal. Haven't pulled the rear cover yet so not sure if I can relocate Evap canister and whatever else is under there. Want to mount the turbo there as high up as possible.

- Installing a Walbro 525 with a CJM billet hat. Can I run this on the stock fuel system (no return)?If I need more fuel I am going to try a Kenne Bell boost a pump. The boost a pump doubles the output of the pump and ensures there is no voltage drop to the pump. It also has a boost reference and will increase voltage as boost gets higher. If that doesn't work I'll be forced to use the CJM fuel system. I've seen plenty of guys make big power with a boost a pump, don't see why it wouldn't work for this application? If this works I'll have $700ish in the entire fuel system (minus injectors)

Seb from Specialty Z has been giving me lots of advice, what a great guy he is!! I haven't spent a nickel with him yet and he always responds to my questions. Super classy guy., not to mention he is a fellow drag racer like me, lol. If you can turn you're not going fast enough!

 

Seb is my tuner and highly recommend him. Are you a SoCal local? He is more on the conservative side when tuning. Which is good if you want to keep your car running for awhile!

- piping diameter (thinking 2-2.5'' but not sure how exactly this impacts spool time, efficiency or hp) Not sure with TC/SC applications, but I found 2.5" to the resonators and 2.25" out to dual mufflers worked best for me (no drone / no rasp / on power loss) NA.
- Looking for a quiet, as close to stock, exhaust note. Thinking about running a 18'' resonator before the turbo and a Borla XR1 muffler after the turbo (The XR1 is a bad *** straight thru muffler) I have coupe resonators(smaller than sedans with 2.5 in/out). I also have a XYZ resonated Y pipe. It's a little louder than stock driving around town and sounds awesome on the track.

Here's what it sounds like:

You Tube

 

I'm in Pittsburgh now and will probably relocate back to St. Louis (my hometown) in a year. Thanks for the feedback. The turbo will definitely tone the note down