Hi guys, I've been lurking for awhile and figured I would post about my build. I'm new to this platform but have alot of LS1 experience. I built a max effort camaro back in 2004/2005 that went 9.70@140 w/ 1.29 60' on 93 octane and 10" drag radials. Anyway...I'm older now and done with the max effort drag racing thing.

About 4 months ago I bought a 09 g37x sedan 7at with 180k. Car was pretty solid and ran good for what I paid (3900). Driving home the check engine light came on and turns out the oil gallery gaskets were blown, big surprise, lol. I tore the front end off and replaced the gaskets and then it happened. I sat there staring at the motor and knew there was no way I could this far into it without making some more power...lol.

I am doing 100% of the work by myself and hope to finish in the spring. I currently have the subframe, engine and transmission out of the car. Block has been cleaned and honed and I'm getting ready to start on the short block.

I intend to drive the car daily and keep the total build under 20K. This is what I have planned, should be interesting, lol. Any advice is appreciated, especially if I overlooked something...

Engine
- Stock block/bore honed and deburred
- Stock crank polished (might chamfer the oil passages)
- Eagle rods/ JE pistons 10-1
- Arp 2000 main/head studs
- Heads/Intake fully ported/polished
- JWT C2 exhaust cams / beehive intake springs
- Rock Auto timing chain set
- Z1 motor mounts
'- Z1 oil pan spacer
- Stock oil pump with billet gear upgrade
- Ported/polished stock throttle bodies
- New stock water pump
- New oem radiator
- New accessories (PS, alt. Starter)
- ATI super dampener

Transmission
- Modern Transmisaion built A7, billet input shaft, upgraded valve body, clutches, triple disc converter
- FI flexplate
- Tranny cooler and add a dipstick

Drivetrain/Suspension
- New wheel bearings
- New rack/pinion
- 3.69 Quafie LSD front, VLSD rear - 3.69
- diff support
- Steel one piece drive shaft
- Stock brakes
- Z1 brake lines
- Stock 17" wheels painted gun metal with anodized top coat (lightweight wheels later drag radials later)
- KYB shocks/struts

Fuel
- Walbro 525 (If I need more I'll add a KB boost pump later)
- custom fuel rails (I'll fab them from blanks)
- custom return system with -8/-10 lines
- Automotive regualtor/gauge
- ID1050x injectors
- E85 / Flex Fuel - Ecotek(Seb)

FI
- Front mount single, either custom or maybe Soho's kit or a custom rear mount
- 2 Innovate gauges installed in the driver side vent
- Ecutek tuning

Misc
- Headlights refinished by one eighty and LED's (might tackle this myself, I'm **** about headlights though)
- I destroyed the front bumper taking it off becasue the fasteners were all seized. Probably go with the factory sport bumper and paint it myself
- small surface rust on roof, repair and paint roof black w/clear
- 3m undercoating the chasis
- custom chromoly tow bar (delete front bumper)

 

 

Not bad for 180k miles

 

 

 

Forgot I bent the front brace of the engine cradle with a jack, brain fart move. Not sure how I'm gonna address that. I also had to cut off the front cross member since it was completely rusted and seized. $500 for a new one and $200 for a used one, sheesh. Might have something tubular made for that too. If I wasnt going to daily drive it I would ditch the dumb stock motor mounts and make a motor plate for it. Too old for solid mounts, ha. Would free up alot of room though

 

Looking good so far. I probably should have done the same clean out. But if yours looked like that at 180k. Perhaps I'll wait til mine gets to 200 before doing a clean out for a phase 1 power build. Good stuff, Id say that crossmember pissed me off the most when I saw it bent, 500 new. 100 bucks on craigslist!

 

Hi Bman, I wasn't expecting to see a budget build to start off like this Incredible build thus far, can't wait to see more of it! I'll probably end up doing this if I still have my G in a few years. She has 93K miles on it now and still running strong.

On the relearning topic, it there is a few different ways to reset the learning. There's a pedal dance / sequence you can do. There's a few threads here, 370z forum and youtube videos or two on it. Or you can disconnect the battery over night. ECU reprogramming will also do it. The problem with our cars is that relearning doesn't work to well once you start modding your car. Basically it tries to learn new changes, but ends up overcompensating and degrades performance. What you will end up doing is getting it tuned or tuning it yourself. That way you have full control of the AFR map and other variables. Tuning can get costly. I have ecutek and have had it tuned at least 5 times for changes over the years. That's around 2k right there + plus the tuner cable/software.

 

Maybe budget isn't the right description. Alot needs to be replaced anyway. As far as mods there isnt much until I get into the turbo stuff outside of pistons and cams. I might just run stock pistons and cams, I'm not convinced I have to have it yet...lol

 

I cleaned one of these crusty pistons up, just to see.... Looks pretty good to me for 180k...lol

 

Thats what Im saying!

 

I'll be looking to buy used parts, when it makes sense. If you have anything on my list for sale, I'll be interested depending on where I'm at on my build. I'm currently on disability and not working so I need to buy used when I can

 

wow, cool build, definitely not what I was expecting for a "budget" build either.

For the front sub frame, instead of getting something custom made, consider getting one off a RWD model. the AWD one is heavy cause its steel and has a bunch of extra bracing...the RWD (sport Models) use a much smaller aluminum sub frame...you may have to modify it for clearance with the front diff/transfer case but probably not by much if at all...you will have to use the lCA's from a RWD car too though....you can probably get a whole front subassembly fro ma RWD car for o few hundred dolalrs form a junkyard.

For the relean try the NDS light App, its free and you just need a cheap ELM327 $10.00 Bluetooth obd adapter...it will do the relearn automatically without the pedal dance mess

 

Great info, thanks for sharing! I have no issues modifying a different craddle and will probably be my only budget friendly option. I'm thinking a chasis shop is going to charge alot more than I originally was thinking. I smoked one of the LCA's taking it off and have to replace one already anyway.

I'll have to look into the rwd craddle...as long as I can support the front diff that would be perfect.

By budget, I meant I'm doing all the labor and not just shelling cash out on all the best high dollar parts out there and having them installed. To each their own though. When the dealer told me they wanted 4k to replace the oil gallery gaskets, I asked him if he just smoked a bowl...lol. insane

 

[QUOTE=Bman427;4260714
By budget, I meant I'm doing all the labor and not just shelling cash out on all the best high dollar parts out there and having them installed. To each their own though. When the dealer told me they wanted 4k to replace the oil gallery gaskets, I asked him if he just smoked a bowl...lol. insane[/QUOTE]

lol, I'm 100% with you on this, good luck and I'm looking forward to seeing updates