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Apparently there are lots of different speedometer apps. So I downloaded one. Thanks!
They aren't. Comparing my speedometer to a GPS smartphone app, the speed is spot-on. The only variations seem to occur over 60 mph, where the car is actually reporting speeds a few MPH over the GPS speed, in which case I'm actually driving a few ticks slower than the car is telling me. So I'm good.
Wow. Just... wow. Loving this change. Should have been a factory option, IMO.
Glad you found an app that worked for you. You should post up the one you downloaded so others can try it.
Just keep in mind that changes in overall tire diameter (even just from normal tire wear) can cause your speedo to be slightly off, especially at higher speeds where a small percentage difference is more noticeable.
I agree completely. Optional gears should definitely have been an option from the factory. For most of us that drive more city than highway swapping to lower gears (numerically higher ratio) makes total sense and can be one of the best bang for your buck performance mods. I remember when I was shopping for my first car back in the mid 80's. I really wanted a Firebird and they offered it with higher numeric ratio rear end... .I searched and searched for a used one with this option but couldn't find one. So I finally "sacrificed" that option and purchased one with the standard gears. Although I loved the car it never felt quite as nice as my buddy's car who had the optional rear end. So my Dad and I eventually change out the gears and all was right in the universe again.
I had a similar experience when buying my Jeep a few years ago. Finding a non-Rubicon model with the optional 4.10 gears was nearly impossible, so I ended up buying a full base model with 3.21 gears and almost immediately swapping them out for 4.56 gears. By far the best overall modification I've done on the Jeep so far (and I have more mods on that than I do my G).
Originally Posted by 4DRZ
Interesting points. I am surprised you noticed bigger gains from the cats than the entire rest of the exhaust, but then again our butt dynos can mislead us from time to time. Of all the stuff I did to my car- by far my biggest gains came from the tune.
On our cars HFC's will definitely provide greater "peak" gains than a cat back exhaust. When I did my first set of mods on my G back in 2008/2009 I had each individual mod dyno'ed. I know I gained 8 peak HP from the HFC's and I only gained 3 - 4 peak HP from the FI cat back. Although, if I recall correctly the cat back did provide some nice gains in the mid-RPM's, but not as much at high RPM's where you get your peak HP figures. As 4DRZ mentioned, the biggest HP gains on paper from a N/A G will come from a tune. I gained nearly 30 HP from my UpRev tune after I had all of the other normal bolt-ons (intake, exhaust, HFC's).
Originally Posted by Rochester
I believe the 7AT crowd needs a whole new rear diff. Something about the differential housing that's not the same. I think... don't quote me. All I know is that's not necessary for the 6MT.
So just a gear swap: ring, pinion, bearings and seals.
You know, I'm going to start a thread about this. Just for the heck of it.
I believe you are correct in that the Auto crowd will need a complete new housing from a manual car with the LSD. This is at least true for the 7AT auto, but not absolutely sure about the 5AT. Here's a handy thread on gear swaps that explains a lot of this.
My 5AT came with 3.69's and I've considered swapping to the 4.08 gears many times. I've even found full Vert diffs for sale on ebay for ~$500, which would make for a pretty cheap swap. But I already have major traction issues in 1st and 2nd gears and lower gears (numerically higher ratio) will probably just exacerbate that issue.
On our cars HFC's will definitely provide greater "peak" gains than a cat back exhaust. When I did my first set of mods on my G back in 2008/2009 I had each individual mod dyno'ed. I know I gained 8 peak HP from the HFC's and I only gained 3 - 4 peak HP from the FI cat back. Although, if I recall correctly the cat back did provide some nice gains in the mid-RPM's, but not as much at high RPM's where you get your peak HP figures. As 4DRZ mentioned, the biggest HP gains on paper from a N/A G will come from a tune. I gained nearly 30 HP from my UpRev tune after I had all of the other normal bolt-ons (intake, exhaust, HFC's).
Weird. My butt dyno (and Stillen's claims) definitely needs to be recalibrated for higher rpms. I felt more gains from the cat back than I did the cats, but I think it is much easier to tell a difference at low and mid rpms than high rpms when there is so much noise and other things going on.
Whichever one you added first would give the most gains...
If you install cats and then catback, or catback first and then cats... then absolutely the gains will be most felt because of the first component swap.
The argument then becomes which mod by itself nets the most positive gains in performance. That's when people start scrambling for dyno sheets, even though none of that really matters except to fuel the hobby in an academic way, because if you're going to replace the cats, then you're going to replace the catback too, sequence be damned.
Driving around tonight, still getting used to the new gears. Keenly aware how easy it is to jump off the line into a turn and get all tail-happy. When you do it wrong (which is easy and often), it can be a really awkward moment. Too little or too much oversteer, over-correcting or laying off the throttle too soon. It can be embarrassing, and socially obnoxious.
But when you do it right, slick and clean... it can be very rewarding. Still obnoxious, sure, but rewarding nonetheless.
I'm not going to lie... like anyone who's into cars, I've often thought it would be fun to get a couple of GoPro cameras. Wouldn't it be amazing to be Harry Metcalfe? That guy's lawnmower is probably more worthy than my humble little G.
But I just can't justify it. Sorry, DFS.
And besides, you know exactly what I'm talking about. Stopped in a wide section of roadway, making a left-hand turn with more throttle than necessary, moving in a way that exceeds grip, but not so much that you over-correct. Try to put that on camera, and do it in less than 12 takes, LOL.
Anyway, the underlying point of the comment was that these gears give a shot of adrenaline to the low-end torque, and I'm still surprised by it.
The shift points are sooner on the speedometer, and you reach that speed faster than otherwise. It just is what it is, and I don't think I can video this in a way that represents things well.
Rochester, next time you see your mechanic, ask him how difficult the trans mount was to install?
I was at the shop while that was being done. Super easy job. Car was up on the lift, and he used one of those tall floor jacks to support the transmission. Maybe 30 minutes. Lots of discussion about the transmission mount here in this thread:
PG-v36_6MT installed (and subsequently uninstalled) the mount himself in the driveway. Seemed pretty easy, but he's very capable with stuff like that.
You know what I'm thinking? Sometime in the future, I might actually go back to the OEM mount, but have the Z1 engine mounts installed instead. From things I've read, the poly engine mounts for this car actually have less in-cabin NVH than the transmission mount does. IDK... something for me to consider over the next few years, as I look at lining up new projects for the car.
Hey man, just got my Whiteline differential bushing. I just want to confirm with you that you're saying you reversed the instructions in #6?
FWIW, my rear diff bushings aren't flipped, and I have no vibration issues. If you read TVPostSound's DIY, the speculation is the exhaust frequency causes the vibration. He was fine stock, but flipped the bushings after getting a FI catback. The good news: the bushings are easy to flip.
Originally Posted by Jonesmeister11
I did the same. No added vibration.
Rochester, next time you see your mechanic, ask him how difficult the trans mount was to install?
Easy. I put it on, and two days later took it off, in my driveway using hand tools. 30 minute job. Maybe 60 if you're slow.
I was at the shop while that was being done. Super easy job. Car was up on the lift, and he used one of those tall floor jacks to support the transmission. Maybe 30 minutes. Lots of discussion about the transmission mount here in this thread:
PG-v36_6MT installed (and subsequently uninstalled) the mount himself in the driveway. Seemed pretty easy, but he's very capable with stuff like that.
You know what I'm thinking? Sometime in the future, I might actually go back to the OEM mount, but have the Z1 engine mounts installed instead. From things I've read, the poly engine mounts for this car actually have less in-cabin NVH than the transmission mount does. IDK... something for me to consider over the next few years, as I look at lining up new projects for the car.
I agree about the trans mount being easy to install.
Let me know if you ever install engine mounts. I am still trying to find someone who has on a sedan.
05-11-2017, 12:55 PM
Just... wow. Loving this change. Should have been a factory option, IMO.
I felt more gains from the cat back than I did the cats, but I think it is much easier to tell a difference at low and mid rpms than high rpms when there is so much noise and other things going on.
Stopped in a wide section of roadway, making a left-hand turn with more throttle than necessary, moving in a way that exceeds grip, but not so much that you over-correct. Try to put that on camera, and do it in less than 12 takes, LOL.
