Help G37 rear upper control arm to hub bushing removal
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Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 18
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From: Portland OR
G37 rear upper control arm to hub bushing removal
Dropped my subframe to replace: axles, wheel bearings, diff bushings, sub frame bushings, and install a Z1 diff cover.
Couldn't get the passenger side hub to strut bolt out... removed the strut with the subframe. Tried to impact the bolt off and it broke the bolt off the strut, which I was able to remove easily one it snapped off the strut bracket... it was just tac welded on in three spots. Can't get the bolt out though, it's rusted/fused with the inner race. The bushing rubber separated and rotates with the bolt
Figuring I can sawzall the bolt, or hit it with sledge and knock it out once the upper control arm is outta the way. Ordered all new poly bushings for all four hub bushings... cuz if I have to get the hubs out and take them somewhere to get the bushings pressing out/in I might as well do all of them.
Try to remove the frakin upper control arm to hub ball joint nut, and it just rotates the ball joint. Sprayed with penetrating lube, let it sit over night. Breaker bar causes the ball joint to rotate. Hit it briefly with the impact and more rotation. Not sure what to do next... not enough clearance to cut the bolt.
Any suggestions to remove either of these? If I can get this ball joint nut loose I can then try and sledge the strut bolt... or have better access if I have to cut it.
Couldn't get the passenger side hub to strut bolt out... removed the strut with the subframe. Tried to impact the bolt off and it broke the bolt off the strut, which I was able to remove easily one it snapped off the strut bracket... it was just tac welded on in three spots. Can't get the bolt out though, it's rusted/fused with the inner race. The bushing rubber separated and rotates with the bolt
Figuring I can sawzall the bolt, or hit it with sledge and knock it out once the upper control arm is outta the way. Ordered all new poly bushings for all four hub bushings... cuz if I have to get the hubs out and take them somewhere to get the bushings pressing out/in I might as well do all of them.Try to remove the frakin upper control arm to hub ball joint nut, and it just rotates the ball joint. Sprayed with penetrating lube, let it sit over night. Breaker bar causes the ball joint to rotate. Hit it briefly with the impact and more rotation. Not sure what to do next... not enough clearance to cut the bolt.
Any suggestions to remove either of these? If I can get this ball joint nut loose I can then try and sledge the strut bolt... or have better access if I have to cut it.
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Joined: Jun 2019
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From: South Florida
Dropped my subframe to replace: axles, wheel bearings, diff bushings, sub frame bushings, and install a Z1 diff cover.
Couldn't get the passenger side hub to strut bolt out... removed the strut with the subframe. Tried to impact the bolt off and it broke the bolt off the strut, which I was able to remove easily one it snapped off the strut bracket... it was just tac welded on in three spots. Can't get the bolt out though, it's rusted/fused with the inner race. The bushing rubber separated and rotates with the bolt Figuring I can sawzall the bolt, or hit it with sledge and knock it out once the upper control arm is outta the way. Ordered all new poly bushings for all four hub bushings... cuz if I have to get the hubs out and take them somewhere to get the bushings pressing out/in I might as well do all of them.
Try to remove the frakin upper control arm to hub ball joint nut, and it just rotates the ball joint. Sprayed with penetrating lube, let it sit over night. Breaker bar causes the ball joint to rotate. Hit it briefly with the impact and more rotation. Not sure what to do next... not enough clearance to cut the bolt.
Any suggestions to remove either of these? If I can get this ball joint nut loose I can then try and sledge the strut bolt... or have better access if I have to cut it.
Couldn't get the passenger side hub to strut bolt out... removed the strut with the subframe. Tried to impact the bolt off and it broke the bolt off the strut, which I was able to remove easily one it snapped off the strut bracket... it was just tac welded on in three spots. Can't get the bolt out though, it's rusted/fused with the inner race. The bushing rubber separated and rotates with the bolt
Figuring I can sawzall the bolt, or hit it with sledge and knock it out once the upper control arm is outta the way. Ordered all new poly bushings for all four hub bushings... cuz if I have to get the hubs out and take them somewhere to get the bushings pressing out/in I might as well do all of them.Try to remove the frakin upper control arm to hub ball joint nut, and it just rotates the ball joint. Sprayed with penetrating lube, let it sit over night. Breaker bar causes the ball joint to rotate. Hit it briefly with the impact and more rotation. Not sure what to do next... not enough clearance to cut the bolt.
Any suggestions to remove either of these? If I can get this ball joint nut loose I can then try and sledge the strut bolt... or have better access if I have to cut it.
For the UCA bolt most likely will require breaking the arm or some heavy pneumatic hammer to take it out if you plan to save the arm.
As for the bearings, I suggest to just get a pre assembled hub and bearing. This will save you time and money, just 4 bolts and it comes with new studs.
Thread Starter
Registered Member
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Portland OR
With the ball joint you'll need to try to jam a pry bar or angled bar or wrench in between the knuckle and UCA to hold the ball joint from spinning.
For the UCA bolt most likely will require breaking the arm or some heavy pneumatic hammer to take it out if you plan to save the arm.
As for the bearings, I suggest to just get a pre assembled hub and bearing. This will save you time and money, just 4 bolts and it comes with new studs.
For the UCA bolt most likely will require breaking the arm or some heavy pneumatic hammer to take it out if you plan to save the arm.
As for the bearings, I suggest to just get a pre assembled hub and bearing. This will save you time and money, just 4 bolts and it comes with new studs.
The bearing/hub came out without issue. Took the axle out first and just hammered it from behind. Got new OEM axles/hubs to replace them with.
Here's hoping the arm can come off without damaging it
I'll keep y'all updated!
Thread Starter
Registered Member
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Portland OR
If anyone runs into either of these issues in the future.....
Rear A arm ball joint stuck to wheel hub:
I removed the A arms with the rear subframe, removed the hub with the A arm, then with infinitely better access had my buddy hold the end of the ball joint bolt with locking pliers which I undid the nut with a slim wrench. Worked like a charm.
Rear strut bolt fused to bearing inner race:
Removed strut with subframe, separated wheel hub and strut, was able to hold it to the side enough my buddy got a 9 inch grinder wheel in there and cut the bolt on both sides. Had a new poly bearing pressed in and rewelded the strut nut back to the strut body.
Rear A arm ball joint stuck to wheel hub:
I removed the A arms with the rear subframe, removed the hub with the A arm, then with infinitely better access had my buddy hold the end of the ball joint bolt with locking pliers which I undid the nut with a slim wrench. Worked like a charm.
Rear strut bolt fused to bearing inner race:
Removed strut with subframe, separated wheel hub and strut, was able to hold it to the side enough my buddy got a 9 inch grinder wheel in there and cut the bolt on both sides. Had a new poly bearing pressed in and rewelded the strut nut back to the strut body.
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