Yep, that's how I broke mine loose (didn't want to admit it firsthand, lol), just be sure you get a solid seat on that bolt head and like I said, spray that puppy w/ some rust breaker mix.

 

What about a socket with a U joint? Still not enough room?

 

lol YEAH but that was a pain first time i did replaced the rear rotors...
Second time i used this

And was WAY easyer

 

Okay guys, need a bit more help. The new pads came with a backing plate attached to it. I removed it from the pad in the picture.

Question: do I put the old backing plates (the ones on top) over the new one, remove the old ones and use the new one only, or remove the new one and use the old ones?

Also, for the pad with the low pad warning indicator, should that pad be on the inside or the outside pad? My guess would be on the outside so that when it is scraping we can actually see the scrape marks on the rotor but I want to make sure.

Thanks everyone!!

 

Conflicting opinion on which to bleed first - inner or outer? The service manual does not state any order. Also, I read on this forum on a couple threads and from this DIY that inner should be first:

Brake Bleeding
Step #8 "If you have dual bleeder screws like those in the Akebono, bleed the inside first, followed by the outside."

I flushed mine today and did the inner first and it worked out fine.

UPDATE: Did more research all over the internet and different car models and sure enough this is up for debate. No clear answer to inside or outside first. Both have valid arguments for why ....to me that means do it either way....

 

Ugh, did I do something wrong? After I finished installing the new rotors and pads, I started up the G and got 2 lights: VDC OFF and SLIP.



I did still had the car up on jack stands when I started the car and I did not pull the e-brake back up yet (I have a manual) so I'm not sure if any of that has anything to do with the lights.

Anyone have any ideas on what I may have done? Or does the car just need to reset?

 

Put the car back down and you should be OK.


As far as bleeding order~
Per fsm passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front.

 

If you have new backing plates, do NOT use the old backing plates too.
Replace the pads and backing plates.

If only one pad have the ware indicator, that pad goes on the inside as i remember..

 

Thanks Brad! I'll be bleeding the system tomorrow and if everything goes well, I'll be able to take her out for a test drive.

This leads me to another question...what is the bed-in procedure (if any) that you guys have used for Posi-Quiet pads? On the box, it states that there isn't one:



but it just seems odd to not have a bed-in process for new pads. Should I try a bed-in process of some sort or don't worry about it?

 

Those aren't a high performance pad so just some spirited daily driving should get them working well.

 

Check the master cylinder. Fluid probably got too low. Top it off. lights should disappear.

 

Hey guys, I'm trying to leak test the power bleeder and it seems to leak at about 1 psi per minute...this isn't normal is it? I've tried putting teflon tape at the connector but it still leaks.

 

Seems irrelevant to me. The moment you open one of the bleeders you've created a leak. Have you tried it with the "excessive" leakdown? Is it actually interfering with bleeding the brakes?

 

I figured out what the issue was. I used some type of black teflon tape and it was still leaking at the connector so I eventually took it apart and found some white teflon tape and the pressure was steady after that!

 

Thanks to everyone who helped out with this project - especially Brad and UCLAG37!! I would not have been able to complete everything without you guys' help and encouragement along the way. I finished everything today and here is the final product:

Old setup:



New posi-quiet pads and Stoptech slotted rotors installed:





Some shots of the G - :