Sunny G

iTrader: (1)

getting the toe to 0 should'nt be a problem at all. Looking at my specs from this summer the toe on my car is something like .04~.06. I need a toe kit to get it to dial to 0. It only costs like $30 so it shouldnt be a problem. The continental DWS are good all season tires you can probable expect a good 20k miles out of them even with the camber, and more without the camber.

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

That's awesome news Sunny! If I can get 20k out of the tires then that is definitely good enough. I only put about 3k-4k miles on my car a year so that should last about 4 years which is good enough. I just didn't want to be buying a new set of tires every year like what speedracer mentioned. That would be aweful!!

So once I get my tires back on, which area did you guys need me to take pictures of? The wheel area from the front to the back and top to bottom?

BTW, is the toe kid hard to install? Is there a DIY available?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Stand directly in back of the vehicle and take a straight pic along the side w/ a close up of the fender, upper tire area.

As far as the toe slot DIY, you only need to elongate the inner side of the slot (facing the differential pumpkin). The kit comes w/ a template that you use to scribe or mark a line to cut out. And like I said you only need to cut the inner side of the slot not the whole area in the template. I used a dremel tool w/ a thin metal cutoff wafer and it was pretty simple, the toe bolt goes into a metal housing that has two metal channels(that hold the lower control arm aka spring bucket) so you have to cut out the slot on both sides, so a total of 4 cuts, 2 on the drivers side, 2 on the passenger side.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Here's a pic of the toe bolt mount, you have to elongate the slot on both sides of the black bracket

Sunny G

iTrader: (1)

https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...on.php?II=4295

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

And you can add these for more camber adjustment without getting the arms
SPC Rear Camber Cam Bolts (370Z / G37)

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

Okay guys, here are the pictures of the car with the wheels on.

Driver front:








Passenger front:








Driver back:








Passenger back:







I have an appointment tomorrow for an alignment so please let me know what you guys see that is out of spec that can be adjusted.

Thanks again!!

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the pics.
The front definitely has room to get camber much better, and since the rear is a stretch mount it looks like you can square it up some more. Your alignment tech should be able to get your camber arms set just to the point where you clear the inner rear fender, hopefully that will get you to a point where you're not cooking those back tires too quick. This is assuming you also have teh rear toe bolt kit as you'll need your toe in spec regardless of wherever your camber ends up.
The amount of front camber looks like a natural amount of camber just by dropping it that low without any aftermarket camber arms. I assume you don't have any front aftermarket camber arms and if so you WILL need to get some to get that camber corrected up front. Luckily toe is fully adjustable in front.
G/L and keep us posted.

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the quick reply blnewt.

You're right, I have no camber arms up front or in the back, everything is stock aside from the springs. In spite of that though, would the camber still be able to get back into spec up front (even if I can't 0 it out) or that's not at all possible due to the drop? If not then I guess I can just ask them to make it closer.

In regards to the rear, is it at all possible to adjust the rear toe without the kit at least to spec or that's not possible? I know I probably won't be able to hit 0 without the kit but I'm curious if I can at least get it within spec. The reason I ask is that I reviewed a DIY instruction/video about how to elongate the slots and I actually don't have a power dremel to do so. At first I was going to just manually dremel it out until I saw how much surface area had to be removed.

Judging by the pictures, how bad does the current setup look as far as burning through tires go?

Thirty_Seven

iTrader: (5)

Here's exactly what I would do, step by step:

First, purchase front and rear adjustable camber arms. SPC and SPL are the two best brands to go with. This will run you around $400 but it'll save much more money in tires in the long run.

Next, buy new tires, bring it to a shop and have them put the tires on, install the camber arms and do an alignment to adjust camber and toe. (Look for a shop with a road force alignment machine, ask what brand the alignment machine is, Hunter is a good one)

Finally, they'll give you a print out sheet of what your camber and toe specs are. With the camber kits, you should be in spec and shouldn't have to worry about tires for awhile.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

^^good advice^^
You won't be able to get the rear in spec with the camber arms and still keep from hitting the fender, at least from what I can see from those pics. What you can do is get the kits and get it as close as you can without hitting the fender. If you're currently at -4 degrees in back maybe you can get it to around -2.5 which is much better and w/ toe in spec you should have reasonable tire wear.
I'm a bit surprised you would have that much negative camber without camber arms, a deep drop like that on stock arms results in about -3 degrees give or take. Each vehicle does drop a bit different though so YMMV.
As far as rear toe, you will need the kit to get toe in spec when you're dropped that low, and camber & toe are related, so when you drop real low you usually need the camber arms along w/ the toe kit to get it right.
The rear kit is pretty affordable, about $150, the front is the biggie, about $350. If you burn through tires twice as fast or even quicker that $500 pays for itself pretty fast.
Hopefully you find a decent alignment shop w/ a tech that knows lowered vehicles, it can be a hard thing to find sometimes.

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

So I need??:

For the front, 1 of this and that's it: https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...on.php?II=4362

For the back: 2 of these: https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...on.php?II=4360

1 of this: https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...on.php?II=4295

1 or 2 of these? SPC Rear Camber Cam Bolts (370Z / G37) (I got a bit confused on the description)

For the last link, the rear camber bolts, do I still need to get that if I end up getting the rear camber arms? The description makes it seem like it does the same thing?

G37Xtreme

I've circled the wear bars in this picture for anyone who doesn't know what they are. I believe they are set to 2/32" so when your tread is equal to the bars, it's time to replace.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Check my replies inside your quote~
If you just want to buy the whole setup at once (the front and rear arms and rear toe bolts) and for the best pricing check our vendor THMotorsports and ask for Luke, he should get you a nice price.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...torsports.html

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

The stock front suspension has no camber adjustment, only toe.
If you can pony up the dough, you should look into the SPL front arms. Better design than the SPC/Eibach item and your alignment guy will probably have an easier time adjusting them.