ashmostro

iTrader: (3)

My 2010 RWD S sedan has 19k miles and I'm preparing for a track day in November, and was hoping to find some pads that could work well as a crossover for DD and track. All my research led me to the conclusion that I probably wouldn't be happy enough with the compromises a crossover pad makes on the street (squealing, low temp bite) or the track (extreme temp fade resistance and friction stability). Granted, there is a pad out there- namely the Project Mu HC+ that is purported to be the best possible crossover pad, but I hear that it does squeal like a pig under light applications. I daily in D.C. traffic so that would just get irritating.

So, my decision was to get a great street pad with better initial bite, lower compressibility for better pedal feel, and high enough fade resistance for the street. Of course, minimal squeal and less or equivalent dusting to OEM are nice, too. Again, my research led me to a product that I essentially bought blind- the Racingbrake ET500 pad model. I didn't get the ET800 because I assumed the trade off of more noise wouldn't offset the extreme temp stability which I'll probably never see on the street anyway. I am happy to say it was the right choice.

http://www.racingbrake.com/G37s-s/5819.htm

I'd like to add here that I did not buy new rotors. Instead, I bought a tool called the Flex Hone, which is a series of medium-grit sanding globules permanently attached to a disc you mount into a drill. Combined with their lubricating oil, it significantly speeds up removal of the previous pad layer deposits on your rotors, which is paramount for performance when switching compounds. Saved me a bunch over buying even OEM replacement rotors. That said, I think I will buy a set with my racing pads in a couple months so swapping before a track day will be a faster affair.

Regardless, here are links for the Flex Hone and oil:




On to the performance of the pads:
After the advised break-in per Racingbrake's site, the pads are a revelation. They grab much more aggressively initially, but are still easy to modulate. The pedal is probably 25% stiffer than before, if I were to guess. Moderate pressure on the slow pedal brings about 25-30% more s-l-o-w than before. Hard stomping is pretty impressive. I haven't engaged ABS yet (hard to do with Michelin PSS) so I don't yet have a feel for max torque.

I did end up getting caught in a torrential downpour yesterday and the pads weren't phased at all. Didn't have to scrub the pads with light pressure to get them working, and remember I have stock blank rotors. No slots, no dimples, no cross-drilling.

The *minor* downsides vs OEM: slight squealing at very low speeds in reverse. Other than that, no noise whatsoever. Also, right before you stop completely the pads suddenly grab and the chassis pitches forward. It requires a more deft touch than OEM to stop smoothly. If you've ever driven a late-model German car, you will recognize this behavior (they come with much grabbier pads from the factory- mostly HH friction ratings). To me, these are the most minor quibbles and don't disappoint me at all.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

ashmostro

iTrader: (3)

I forgot to add, I did not use the factory backing shims, per Racingbrake's recommendation. I'm sure that is contributing to the stiffer pedal.

Also, I used permatex high temp ceramic lube on the back and caliper contact areas of the pads (obviously, not on the friction material), and on the caliper pistons and seals.

I will be adding Z1 SS brake lines next week with Motul RBF600 (running Motul 5.1 right now).