Installing kwv1
You'll need spring compressors to remove the top hats from your OEM front struts, and move them over to the KW's.
If you don't "dump" the car right off the bat, you won't need a camber kit just yet. However, since you've already got the car up on a lift or jacks anyway, might as well get all that done at the same time.
If you don't "dump" the car right off the bat, you won't need a camber kit just yet. However, since you've already got the car up on a lift or jacks anyway, might as well get all that done at the same time.
It can be done that way, but it's wrong. That's how parts get broken and people get hurt. Why would you give someone who's new to modding advice to do it in a wrong half-assed way?
I was a ASE certified mechanic for 20 years and been working on car bikes and heavy equipment for 35+ years. That method on these cars it a lot safer than a newbie using a cheap spring compressor outside the car were you can get hurt. I didn't go into detail so if they wanted to do that way they could ask for detailed instrutions.
To say it's a half-assed way shows how little you know about the process. How many of this type of installs have you done in your life? I've done well over 500........
To say it's a half-assed way shows how little you know about the process. How many of this type of installs have you done in your life? I've done well over 500........
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^ oh ****....shots fired.....
Anyways thanks for the info. I've decided to just have a shop install them because I wouldn't want to mess up and make a mistake...
What parts would I need to make this happen other then the SPC camber kit? spacers?
Anyways thanks for the info. I've decided to just have a shop install them because I wouldn't want to mess up and make a mistake...
What parts would I need to make this happen other then the SPC camber kit? spacers?
I was a ASE certified mechanic for 20 years and been working on car bikes and heavy equipment for 35+ years. That method on these cars it a lot safer than a newbie using a cheap spring compressor outside the car were you can get hurt. I didn't go into detail so if they wanted to do that way they could ask for detailed instrutions.
To say it's a half-assed way shows how little you know about the process. How many of this type of installs have you done in your life? I've done well over 500........
To say it's a half-assed way shows how little you know about the process. How many of this type of installs have you done in your life? I've done well over 500........
No you don't need to get under the car without stands and your not going to break any parts or hurt anyone. He's going to have it done so doesn't make a difference at this point. There's always more than one way to get any job done and if you've never worked on suspension parts or don't have the tools taking the car in is probably best.
When you install front and rear camber kits on this car too if you know nothing about alignment again best to take the car in because it can be dangerous to even drive to the shop at that point.
I also aligned mine myself (with alignment tools from the 70's) and after driving for a couple weeks, raising the car a little and realigning it I took it in for an alignment. All my setting were within 1 degree and closer than many shops will send your car out with.
The last 8 years or so I've been doing most work in the field on eqipment that's stuck in the boonies. This type of work forces you to figure out ways to do things that you wouldn't do in the shop to get the job done. This may be why I do things like this at times. Not to mention I've seen a few springs come out of spring compressors and it's no fun when it's out of the car. The way I did it (with the front wheels still on) and car on the ground there's no where for the spring to go and all pressure is released with about one inch of travel.
Sorry if I stepped over the line here was just trying to help but can understand why you were concerned.
When you install front and rear camber kits on this car too if you know nothing about alignment again best to take the car in because it can be dangerous to even drive to the shop at that point.
I also aligned mine myself (with alignment tools from the 70's) and after driving for a couple weeks, raising the car a little and realigning it I took it in for an alignment. All my setting were within 1 degree and closer than many shops will send your car out with.
The last 8 years or so I've been doing most work in the field on eqipment that's stuck in the boonies. This type of work forces you to figure out ways to do things that you wouldn't do in the shop to get the job done. This may be why I do things like this at times. Not to mention I've seen a few springs come out of spring compressors and it's no fun when it's out of the car. The way I did it (with the front wheels still on) and car on the ground there's no where for the spring to go and all pressure is released with about one inch of travel.
Sorry if I stepped over the line here was just trying to help but can understand why you were concerned.
I agree with you that there's more than one way to skin a cat and I certainly respect and aporeciate your experience and ingenuity. It sound like you've probably done it more than any of us. I think we just differ on the approach that an inexperienced person should take on this install. I know your way will work, I've seen it done. It just seems more dangerous to me than the traditional way that every manual or instruction guide will give you. Particularly for someone that hasn't done it. Perhaps because your occupational background is mechanical and mine is health and safety.
I installed my V1's this past friday, it was pretty straight forward but I had to borrow an impact from a shop down the road to take off the front top hats since my little air compressor one was just not cutting it lol.
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WillCo1
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Sep 1, 2015 11:31 PM



