I have a 2010 G37 Sedan, I recently put on Manzo lowering springs, I went to get my wheel alignment and the place told me that they couldn’t do the alignment if I don’t get 4 new control arms, (1k-1500$ I’m not trying to spend) and they said I’m eating my tires away at 2 degrees. Can someone confirm I have to get New control arms or should I just go to another place?

 

They know nothing. Go to a different shop.

 

How low did the springs drop the car?...the shop may not be able to get the car into "spec" without aftermarket front upper control arms to adjust camber and may think you need adjustable rear camber arms in the rear (you may be able to get away with bolts instead on the rears) to do the same. without adjustable arms you are probably running some negative camber ( the "2 degrees", which is probably -2 degrees) which will wear your tires unevenly, but lots of people run -2 degrees of camber and are fine and just replace their tires sooner.


IIRC you can get front and rear adjustable camber arms for around 500-600 maybe less depending on the brand

other than the camber a shop that knows what its doing may be able to adjust toe within spec which is much more important for tire wear....yo umay have ot go to a shop that specifically does alignments on lowered cars

 

It lowers front 1.75 rear 1.5.... and yea I’ve found them for cheaper, they tried to tell me 1200 for front and 500 or so for rear control arms.. and what does it mean to Be “in spec”?

 

You need front camber arms and rear camber arms with toe bolts to get it to the spec of what the manufacturer recommends. The good one is SPC, which I have and no issues.

 

Thats a pretty large drop. to be in spec means to be within the manufacturers specifications for alignment which is usually camber, toe and castor, when you lower a car it changes these parameters, some people prefer more negative camber than the manufacturers recommendations, a shop that does alignments on lowered cars will understand this

 

How handy are you w/tools?

Not hard at all to install the front control arms (3 bolts).

Rears are easy. Biggest PITA is grinding out the hole more w/a dremel for the bolts. But will take about 20 mins.

I'm running -2.1 camber. Spec is -1.8 at the most. You maybe good as is for awhile unless the springs will settle more.

 

I'm running -2 degrees all around, have been for several years. As long as you minimize toe, you won't eat tires.

 

I’m hamdy with tools, but do you have a Cambridge kit? Should I just go ahead and ge the camber kit?

 

Whats the best way to minimize toe ?

 

Yea the shop was trying to put my car back in spec to have 0 camber but I wanted -1 they couldn’t do that though, if I wanted camber still with out replacing anything Else can I do that and not eat away my tires? Or no matter what I’ll go through tires if I don’t have camber kit?

 

Lets say I get a 4 piece camber set on ebay, is all of that included ? Or do I have to get toe bolts and a whole camber kit?

 

Toe is easy. Unless your drop in the rear is excessive, then you'll need a toe kit for the rear. Mine is lowered thusly and didn't need toe arms for the rear.

 

For toe, you might need some toe bolts. I was on H&R springs and bought SPL front and rear arms to correct the camber and needed toe bolts to correct toe also.

 

Hi everyone, I have a 2013 g37x coupe, I recently installed swift lowering springs and noticed that my passenger front had more negative camber than the driver front. It's really off and you can tell by just looking at the wheel that it's not the same at all(I have the alignment sheet attached below). I got recommendations to get front-camber arms, but I need to know the issue first because I believe one side is sitting lower than the other. I measured the bottom of the wheel to the fender and it's off by a 1/4 of an inch on one side. people are telling me it's a bad strut, I just can't seem to wrap my head around the issue. Any recommendations would highly be appreciated.