Coilover Installation Questions
03-06-2019, 03:22 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Coilover Installation Questions
Ok So i Drive a 2012 sedan, and I wanted to know some things from those who have installed coil-overs on their sedan.
oh and im gonna install BC Racing BR coil-overs.
1. Did the front end take longer than the rear end and how much of a difference in time did it take to install?
2. I know that a 12 14 17 and 19mm socket is needed but is there anything else that will be needed to install the coil-overs?
3. Ive attempted removing the strut multiple times but to no avail, is there a certain trick to it or does it just slide out after all the correct bolts are taken out correctly?
4. Would you suggest setting the preload prior to installation or after the strut is removed?
Update:
Ive only installed the front end because of the terrible weather lately and the difference is night and day. Unfortunately i couldn't get a video but I will lay out how we did the work once i'm done with the rears.
oh and im gonna install BC Racing BR coil-overs.
1. Did the front end take longer than the rear end and how much of a difference in time did it take to install?
2. I know that a 12 14 17 and 19mm socket is needed but is there anything else that will be needed to install the coil-overs?
3. Ive attempted removing the strut multiple times but to no avail, is there a certain trick to it or does it just slide out after all the correct bolts are taken out correctly?
4. Would you suggest setting the preload prior to installation or after the strut is removed?
Update:
Ive only installed the front end because of the terrible weather lately and the difference is night and day. Unfortunately i couldn't get a video but I will lay out how we did the work once i'm done with the rears.
Last edited by Autmnkestrel; 03-14-2019 at 01:52 AM.
03-06-2019, 08:38 AM
#2
1. Yes, the front requires the rotor to be forced down to free up the oem unit. Take out the bolt of the top ball joint. It will make it much easier. Helps to have two people. Difference was about 20-30 minutes vs. the rear (rear took all of 10.)
2.Those sockets are correct. You might need an allen key (Fortune 500 set required one B/C might be different). Tape measure.
3.The rear strut? Remove the two top nuts, the bottom mounting bolt (behind the caliper). Go ahead and remove the bolt holding the spring bucket up. This will take pressure off the strut to slide out. Jack the car up by the differential and place jack stands on both side. Then, use your mobile jack to raise the spring bucket slightly to remove any pressure on the spring bucket bolt. Once the bolt is removed, lower the bucket slowly and the OEM spring and mounts can be removed.
4) Pre-load before loading. It will be much easier to get them to there required compression vs. once they're installed. Once installed, the spanners provided are fine for micro adjustments(sixteenths to half inch) but suck when large ones need to be made. Just a recommendation, but take whatever the recommended pre-load is and subtract an eight. So, 3/4' preload would be 5/8'. When the coils are installed and the car is lowered, the spring will compress further and stiffen the ride. For a DD, this worked wonders for drive-ability and came with no additional noise or clunking. Also, while the coils are out, pull the plastic "slinky" at the top of each assembly all the way down and zip tie them. This way, they won't move around too much and it will prevent dirt from getting to the rod. Lastly, it's worth maneuvering the collars around in order to apply anti-seize to the threads before install. It will help with seizing if water gets to the area and micro adjustments need to be made.
Check, double check then triple check your bolt specs and locking collars after install. If they aren't right, the suspension will squeak and chatter. It. Will. Drive. You. Insane.
2.Those sockets are correct. You might need an allen key (Fortune 500 set required one B/C might be different). Tape measure.
3.The rear strut? Remove the two top nuts, the bottom mounting bolt (behind the caliper). Go ahead and remove the bolt holding the spring bucket up. This will take pressure off the strut to slide out. Jack the car up by the differential and place jack stands on both side. Then, use your mobile jack to raise the spring bucket slightly to remove any pressure on the spring bucket bolt. Once the bolt is removed, lower the bucket slowly and the OEM spring and mounts can be removed.
4) Pre-load before loading. It will be much easier to get them to there required compression vs. once they're installed. Once installed, the spanners provided are fine for micro adjustments(sixteenths to half inch) but suck when large ones need to be made. Just a recommendation, but take whatever the recommended pre-load is and subtract an eight. So, 3/4' preload would be 5/8'. When the coils are installed and the car is lowered, the spring will compress further and stiffen the ride. For a DD, this worked wonders for drive-ability and came with no additional noise or clunking. Also, while the coils are out, pull the plastic "slinky" at the top of each assembly all the way down and zip tie them. This way, they won't move around too much and it will prevent dirt from getting to the rod. Lastly, it's worth maneuvering the collars around in order to apply anti-seize to the threads before install. It will help with seizing if water gets to the area and micro adjustments need to be made.
Check, double check then triple check your bolt specs and locking collars after install. If they aren't right, the suspension will squeak and chatter. It. Will. Drive. You. Insane.
03-06-2019, 02:29 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok, Im gonna give it an install and I will see if I can make a video on the installation showing everything that is done so that others can get a good look at what they need to do.
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