HI Guys -
I wanted to see if anyone can shine some light to this problem I am having. My car was parked for the entire last week (during the polar vortex) I didnt move it, nor started it. Today as I started it and right after the brake paddle felt spongy. I waited till the engine warmed up and press the paddle couple of times the paddle back to normal. Then when I started driving it slowed to double check the paddle felt spongy again. I had to press the brake 3/4 way down to get the car to stop. Once stopped I have to press the paddle a couple of times to get it back to normal. Yet as I let go of the brake let the car roll and press the brake again back to spongy. I have checked all the Akebono calipers for any leaks (Inside or outside) nothing but all dry. Opened the brake reservoir area and inspected the area no signs of a leak either. Since the car set for a couple of days the rotors had a layer of rust after doing the brake test I noticed the front two rotors were clear again but the back two weren't that lead me to believe the rear calipers might be bad.. I had had these calipers since 2015 with 50k miles could that calipers gone bad ?. I am new to the area so I looked up a local repair shop and managed to get my car there. The owner called after saying they can't find the problem.

So I am here looking for help Any advice is kindly appreciated

 

Try bleeding the system, there might be air trapped inside. If that does not work check the brake pads.
I doubt it would be the actual calipers since you said there are no leaks. If the calipers were bad then there would be a leak or a tear in the seals that are not allowing pressure to be kept in the system.

 

Thanks, @Evorus5, bleeding the system seem to have done the trick. Diagnosing the car, bleeding the brake system and 200$ later, the car is finally braking normally. While I am happy with the outcome, it still baffles my mind that I had to get the system bled.
Any thoughts.

 

 

$200 to bleed the brakes??

Valid point @Corprin. Brake fluid should be flushed every 2 years. More often if you to track or autocross. I suppose moisture inside could freeze, resulting in a slushy slurry type brake fluid which would have odd characteristics until warmed up.

We too were in the deep freeze last week (-25F). My car hasn't been moved in probably 3-4 weeks. I tested my pedal after reading this thread. Didn't feel any different than before. This was with the car off. Of course the real test will be next time I actually drive it some place.

 

@Corprin the fluid was changed in 2015 when I upgraded my calipers, from what I remember the fluid was clean.
@Jsolo Yes, did end up costing 184$ + Cab ride back and forth from the shop to be exact. 1 hour for diagnostics and additional for bleeding the brakes. If you haven't started your car since the polar vortex then 1. I hope your battery is strong enough to start your car. 2 that you don't have the same issue as I did. you're only going to find out about the pedal sponginess right after you've started your car not before. In my opinion not starting your car for 3-4 weeks is not good. I"d at least start it every 3 to 4 days and drive its short distance to keep the car in good health. My OEM infiniti battery died but I wasn't surprised about that since it lasted 6 years. No battery in the current market gives you 6 years that to on a daily driven car.

 

Waiting for a dry day out here. The car is a winter garage queen after all

I'm not too worried about the battery. There's a battery tender hooked up when the car is not in use. I expect it to fire right up. Driving short distance doesn't do a whole lot (other than cause corrosion in the exhaust). The idea is to get up to and sustain it at operating temperature for a bit. We should be dried out by saturday, so that would be a good time to take it out.

This is what I use.

https://www.costco.com/Battery-Tende...100241973.html


Around the holidays its on sale for $30, but even at $40 it's still a good deal.

 

its good to have a car and well preserved in a garage. I wish I had that option I'd so many of the maintenance myself, hell I would have to bleed the system myself.

 

Warmed up enough to dry the roads some. We had a good rain last night so no salt.

Car fired right up (as expected). Brakes felt normal. I was out for about an hour, ~20 miles worth. Our other car (an accord) has a quicker initial bite. I'm more used to it given it's been the car to use the last few months.

Could it be the brake fluid used? I have prestone dot 4 in there. Last changed late August of 2016. Will do it this spring when I put the summer tires back on - too lazy to do it last fall.

If you get one of those one man bleeders (motive power bleeder) then it's just a matter or R&R'ing the wheels and opening a bleed screw (or two) at each caliper.

 

Might want to give Motul fluid a shot next time you change it.

 

^^I don't entirely agree. A high performance brake fluid is great when actually used for such applications (HPDE, track, etc.). However there is no benefit in daily driving. Usually these fluids are more hygroscopic than your standard fluids and should be refreshed more often.

 

^^ Yes to this. A proper bleed with lower-performace but less hygrospic fluid (and less expensive) will do the trick nicely.

 

I would if I could, many mechanics don't like to use self-bought materials. they like to use what they have or they straight out say they're not willing to play. Yes for those who can DIY it, sure why not but for people like me who can't since I park in a public spot and its not allowed to work on car's makes it quite impossible to do such maintenance.
@Jsolo your'en one lucky guy to own such a car and not have to drive it every day. I have to, it's my primary car and so doing modes are very limited and garaging it for winter is out of the question.