Help What is the maximum drop/lowering on coils/springs that does not need alignment?

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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 05:23 PM
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Exclamation What is the maximum drop/lowering on coils/springs that does not need alignment?

Hello everyone!

I currently have a 07 G35S with 19x9.5" +35mm wheels with square setup and 255/40-19 tires. My suspension setup is KYB struts/shocks Nismo 370z front springs and oem Sport rear springs and eibach sway bars.


This is what it currently looks like with my wheels and suspension setup.

I am looking to slightly lower it a bit more so it has a more equal/level ride that is less bouncy and handles a bit better.

Right now my top two options are Tein Basis coils or swift springs, but I am leaning towards the height adjustability of the coils.

Since I am going for a very moderate drop, what is the max I can go without having to purchase any caster/camber adjustment kits to get the alignment correct?

Last edited by Mkhlmnn; Oct 13, 2016 at 05:30 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2016 | 10:34 AM
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That's the million dollar question ***The mildest drop is typically a Tanabe and even these "should" have a rear camber/toe kit. Since the rear toe is barely adjustable it doesn't take much of a drop to have the OEM toe adjuster maxed-out. If you did get the Teins (which I would recommend over the Swifts) and you "could" only drop 1" then if you had the toe in spec w/ a camber in the -1.7 to -2 range then you "should" expect reasonable tread wear without a camber/toe kit. The front has full toe adjustment via the tie rods so you can tolerate a bit more drop without having to invest in the front arms. The front kit is much more expensive so in that regard you're in luck.******There's also one more option, you can get the rear toe bolts and rear camber bolts (instead of the arms) and elongate the slots for both sets of bolts, this will get your rear alignment in spec and cost about $50 for the 2 bolt kits (4 bolts total). This requires a dremel tool to elongate the slots, it's not a hard DIY and here's a link that will help. Oh, and call around when it's time for the alignment, many shops are either clueless or lazy and don't want to deal w/ aftermarket camber parts. Be sure to find a shop that's well versed in lowered vehicles, it's time well spent. https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html****************************And lastly, how 'bout those Cornhuskers! 6&0!

Last edited by blnewt; Oct 16, 2016 at 10:40 AM.
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 02:26 PM
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Haha I knew it would be tough question to answer. My main thought though is I want to improve handling first, looks second. The only thing is she's at 93,850 miles as of today and as great condition she is in.

I don't want to do too many more expensive mods that aren't easily taken off for part outs. She handles pretty well right now but since the spring rates aren't the same and it only has a small drop in the front .5-.75 inches it's bouncier and it has more body roll in the back than I want, if there was a way to say adjust the height of the Tein coils up enough that it is say only a 1" drop on the front and .6-1 inch drop on the rear would it still be close enough that a qualified shop would be able to adjust with oem adjustments?

Yeah though the Huskers are on fire, going to College in a town with one of the worst football programs (KU) in the NCAA it's nice to be able to be around a winning atmosphere
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 09:05 PM
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The problem AFAIK is the rear won't just drop 1", I believe the fronts will. You might shoot a PM to Rochester or 4DRZ and see if they know what the drop will be when set to the highest setting in back. I think it's like 1.4", but the good thing is if you can keep it to that point front & back you should only need a rear kit, and that's not too big a deal IMO.***Well at least Lawrence, KS is home to some pretty good basketball teams
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Old Oct 18, 2016 | 08:45 AM
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Every time you change any suspension component you would need an alignment, there's many factors that go in to each spec so for safety and reliability I would suggest not trying to avoid it...I mean is saving another $80 really worth potential uneven tire wear/handling issues?
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Old Oct 18, 2016 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by blnewt
The problem AFAIK is the rear won't just drop 1", I believe the fronts will. You might shoot a PM to Rochester or 4DRZ and see if they know what the drop will be when set to the highest setting in back. I think it's like 1.4", but the good thing is if you can keep it to that point front & back you should only need a rear kit, and that's not too big a deal IMO.***Well at least Lawrence, KS is home to some pretty good basketball teams
Haha always been waiting for basketball season, Allen fieldhouse is an amazing experience! I'll talk to them a bit more and see what they think.

Originally Posted by VenomGT9
Every time you change any suspension component you would need an alignment, there's many factors that go in to each spec so for safety and reliability I would suggest not trying to avoid it...I mean is saving another $80 really worth potential uneven tire wear/handling issues?
That I am completely fine with $50-80-$100 or so extra to get it within spec for handling and tire wear.

I don't want to have a $500 set of coils to slightly improve ride, look, and performance turn into $800,900, or $1000 project to get it to track correctly by having to buy front and rear camber kits, install, and find a smart enough shop to trust .
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