Rear Toe & Camber Bolts stuck

Old Mar 29, 2016 | 07:31 PM
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Rear Toe & Camber Bolts stuck

While at the dealer for an oil change, the service advisor ran me through a list of items that need some work. They did an alignment check and showed that my G has a little too much toe out on both the front and back. They said the front could be adjusted with minimal issue, but the rear camber and adjustment bolts may be stuck/frozen/seized. The bolt goes through a metal sleeve or collar in the bushing of each link/arm. If the adjustment bolt is stuck, heating and removing it would damage the rubber bushings. The only solution at that point would be to replace the "rear lower link" (Aka spring bucket) and the "front lower link."

Has anyone experienced stuck adjustment bolts? It snows in Toronto, and the roads are salted, I can see how this might happen, but find it hard to believe that the metal would be seized that you need a torch to break it free.

The adjustment bolts in question are shown in the following figures.




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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 07:58 PM
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Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF (Automatic transmission fluid) this is the best rust breaker you can use aside from a torch. Soak the bolts & nuts, let it sit 24 hrs, soak them again and in 48 hours they should be ready to bust loose, may need a 2 ft breaker bar w/ a cheater pipe attached. If that doesn't do it you could use a grinder to cut of the bolt head, this would be much cooler than using a cutting torch. And if you need new bolts you can get the SPC bolt sets if you need more adjustment. You will need to elongate the slots w/ a dremel tool though. When you do install new bolt (OEM or otherwise) be SURE to use a copper based anti seize on the bolt/nut threads so you won't have to deal w/ this again.
G/L
And here's the bolt kit info
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 08:01 PM
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How old is it? In northern Minnesota I've had alignment parts seize on me.

I'd ask them to attempt to adjust and then let you know if they can't. At that point take it to another shop for an alignment and see if they report the same thing.

It could be a standard warning. Every time I used to bring my old Audi in for an alignment the service writer would remind me that the tie rod ends were more than likely seized and would need replacement. I knew they weren't as I'd just replaced them.

The last time I dealt with them they told me a rear control arm was seized and would require replacement before an alignment. I went home and checked it out myself, not seized at all, I could remove the bolts/nuts with hand tools.

...And then I got a G
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by blnewt
Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF (Automatic transmission fluid) this is the best rust breaker you can use aside from a torch. Soak the bolts & nuts, let it sit 24 hrs, soak them again and in 48 hours they should be ready to bust loose, may need a 2 ft breaker bar w/ a cheater pipe attached.
Thanks Brad. I'll gather the materials and repeatedly apply until I swap from my winters to summers.

Originally Posted by G-thirty7X
How old is it? In northern Minnesota I've had alignment parts seize on me.
It's about 8 years old. Only been aligned once in the past 4 years. I don't recall if the rear was adjusted much.
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 10:41 PM
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This was my concern last fall. Car was ~3 1/2 years old and driven in chicago. They had no problems breaking the bolts loose. It is however a very fair concern in the snow belt. Ymmv
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