Nice pics, Stoptech knows what they're doing in product & delivery

 

Thanks for reporting back xnick101! They look great!


I actually placed my ordered as well but ordered from RockAuto instead because discountbrakes and jcwhitney charges tax which increased the price substantially. With the use of the discount code on RockAuto, everything came out to $445 shipped.


Given my bad experience of terrible packaging with heavy brake parts, I'm actually placing 3 different orders to lighten the load of each package. The first package arrived yesterday in good condition so I placed the second order last night. Hopefully all goes well with the next two as well.


Let me know how the install goes. I may have to ask for some help when I get around to doing the brakes on my car once the weather clears up.

 

Once again thanks for the answers. My posi quiets arrived and I went to the closest indy.

Well I said I only want brake pads to be installed, he began "are they making noise , you will need to do sth about rotors too etc. " without even seeing the vehicle.

Well his quote was 270$ just for the labor (installing brake pads front and rear). This is too expensive right ?

 

Yeah that's pricey, should be around 140 for all four wheels, that's what Firestone quoted me, my mobile mechanic did my front rotors for 60. And have someone check your rotors if the haven't seen them they can't determine if they're bad

 

Oh man, to me, pads and rotors are one of the easiest things you can do to a car so ANY labor is expensive, but if I had to guess, anything under $200 would be fair for all 4 corners.

 

I'm too in need of a brake job. I have slight shudder when braking at high speeds (75-80mph). Thinking 4 rotors and pads...on a scale of 1-10 how hard is the diy install? I think replacing the pads would be no prob but the rotors make me nervous. Do you need to bleed the brakes or anything when swapping the rotors. I'm no talented mechanic but i've changed intakes and springs (which were a B for the fronts) on this car and did alot work on my mustang, am i over thinking it too much?

 

The bleeding of the brakes is the hardest thing (but still relatively simple)and also sometimes you'll run in to rotors that are frozen to the hub (all you do in that case is run a 12mm bolt IIRC into the threaded hole on the rotor and it will pull it out from the hub).
Look at various DIY stuff here or on youtube, also depending on what pads you get you may need to bed them in, if you don't know what that is just google it.

 

I say on the difficulty scale of 1 being washing your car and 10 being self wiring/soldering the entire engine harness, a brake job is a 3 at the most. Just remove the wheel, unbolt the caliper and DO NOT loosen the brake line, leave them attached. The rotor should just fall off unless you have a bunch of rust. Even then as stated before thread a bolt in or hit it with a hammer and it'll come loose. The piston in the caliper may need to be pushed in to allow the new pads to fit but that's also very simple. YouTube a brake job procedure, very easy. Oh, and as long as you don't remove a brake line, there's no need to bleed them. Brakes are obviously the most important part of a car and sounds daunting but its actually very simple and a great skill to have.

 

Just got the Stoptech Slotted and Drilled rotors to replace mine since bad shaking and just resurfacing would be around $200. Would I need to replace my brake pads too or could I use the old ones that are still pretty decent last time I checked and just replace them when needed? I keep seeing people say yes and others say never do them at same time. Thanks.

 

I went with Centric blanks and Posi-quiet pads. I did the work myself and found it to be simple if you take your time. No need to bleed the brakes if you don't open the brake line. I'm pleased with the parts and for the steet nothing more is needed. Very little brake dust as well.

 

I'd probably pony up for new pads, the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads would be a nice upgrade over stock sets.

 

Also when bleeding the brakes do the following sequence~
passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front

And if it's been a couple years since you've done a complete fluid flush it's something that should be changed on a regular basis since moisture really will effect brake fluid more than any other fluid in the car.

 

I paid my personal mechanic to do mine. He charged me $120 for it. Honestly I should have just done it myself because it was pretty easy. Once you get the wheels off, you just take the front bracket off by removing the collar pin and sliding the pins back, then press the brake pistons back in, remove brake line off the holder, and hang it up very carefully. This is very crucial for the caliper not to fall or tug on the high pressure line. Then remove 2 22mm bolts on the back and it comes free, and that's it. As long as you don't remove the brake lines or remove the four bolts on the actual caliper then you won't get air in the system and you't wont need to flush the brake fluid. Review and pictures coming soon.

 

Did my stoptech drilled&slotted rotors and duralast ceramic pads myself and decided to have my friend paint my calipers while I was at it bc he's good with paint and I absolutely love how they turned out!

 

I dont mean to hijack, but I cant stand how badly my stoptechs rust even when I prep all the dimples and paint them with high temp paint to avoid this. I just dont get it.