Akebono upgrade on '11 G37x sedan
Akebono upgrade on '11 G37x sedan
Hi folks,
New to the forums and to modding in general. I have a stock '11 G37x sedan that I've enjoyed for the last 1.5 years.
I enjoy "spirited" driving on twisty roads but after driving for a bit, the brakes start to fade and become squishy, so I've decided to upgrade the brakes to improve stopping and also get the bigger calipers that look cool
After a bit of searching, I came across the Akebono brake kit from the 2dr sport model that I'd like to put on my G37x.
If I purchase a kit, like this one, will the akebonos be a direct swap, i.e. can I take them to the dealer or an independent shop and have them swap the brakes out?
Will the brakes fit properly under my rims? I believe my car has the larger 19" rims.

Thanks!
New to the forums and to modding in general. I have a stock '11 G37x sedan that I've enjoyed for the last 1.5 years.
I enjoy "spirited" driving on twisty roads but after driving for a bit, the brakes start to fade and become squishy, so I've decided to upgrade the brakes to improve stopping and also get the bigger calipers that look cool

After a bit of searching, I came across the Akebono brake kit from the 2dr sport model that I'd like to put on my G37x.
If I purchase a kit, like this one, will the akebonos be a direct swap, i.e. can I take them to the dealer or an independent shop and have them swap the brakes out?
Will the brakes fit properly under my rims? I believe my car has the larger 19" rims.

Thanks!
Yep, it's a direct swap and those 19" wheels will clear the big calipers. you will need a new spare tire that will clear. Here's a thread if you want to save some money along the way
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...the-cheap.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...the-cheap.html
Yep, it's a direct swap and those 19" wheels will clear the big calipers. you will need a new spare tire that will clear. Here's a thread if you want to save some money along the way
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...the-cheap.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...the-cheap.html

When I check the discountinfinitiparts website, I see multiple options for the same part. For e.g. for left rear, I see two options with the same part #
Do I just pick any one of them?
its a super easy job to swap out the brakes I did it on my X
If I were you I would just buy the complete package I believe Z1 sells it or one of the other vendors. then you don't have to worry about ordering every single like piece. Don't forget you'll need to trim your dust shield, order new pads, and rotors.
If you reuse the stock rubber lines then you need shorter banjo bolts as well. If you go stainless steal lines you can keep your banjo bolts
If I were you I would just buy the complete package I believe Z1 sells it or one of the other vendors. then you don't have to worry about ordering every single like piece. Don't forget you'll need to trim your dust shield, order new pads, and rotors.
If you reuse the stock rubber lines then you need shorter banjo bolts as well. If you go stainless steal lines you can keep your banjo bolts
Thank you! This is super helpful. I think I've priced all the components down to under $1150 + shipping!
When I check the discountinfinitiparts website, I see multiple options for the same part. For e.g. for left rear, I see two options with the same part #
Do I just pick any one of them?


When I check the discountinfinitiparts website, I see multiple options for the same part. For e.g. for left rear, I see two options with the same part #
Do I just pick any one of them?

And like CC mentioned, if you keep your stock lines you'll need two new banjo bolts and here's that source
https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...n.php?II=13378
its a super easy job to swap out the brakes I did it on my X
If I were you I would just buy the complete package I believe Z1 sells it or one of the other vendors. then you don't have to worry about ordering every single like piece. Don't forget you'll need to trim your dust shield, order new pads, and rotors.
If you reuse the stock rubber lines then you need shorter banjo bolts as well. If you go stainless steal lines you can keep your banjo bolts
If I were you I would just buy the complete package I believe Z1 sells it or one of the other vendors. then you don't have to worry about ordering every single like piece. Don't forget you'll need to trim your dust shield, order new pads, and rotors.
If you reuse the stock rubber lines then you need shorter banjo bolts as well. If you go stainless steal lines you can keep your banjo bolts
As long as the part # is the same you'll be OK w/ either one. And be sure to select free shipping as the shipping option.
And like CC mentioned, if you keep your stock lines you'll need two new banjo bolts and here's that source
https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...n.php?II=13378
And like CC mentioned, if you keep your stock lines you'll need two new banjo bolts and here's that source
https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...n.php?II=13378
I will upgrade to SS brake lines as well.
With the brakes, I'm also considering upgrading the front and rear sway bars. With all my research, this seems to be one of the best parts to help reduce body roll and understeer on the car.
For the G37x sedan, it seems like Hotchkis is the only option, correct?
Surprisingly, amazon seems to have them in stock now!
Is this a good price? Should I keep the stock endlinks to start with?
For the G37x sedan, it seems like Hotchkis is the only option, correct?
Surprisingly, amazon seems to have them in stock now!
Is this a good price? Should I keep the stock endlinks to start with?
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Price sheet looks just right, be sure to say your Infiniti is a G37"S" rather than giving them your VIN#, as they might send you the OEM small brake calipers if they go by your VIN# (it happened to one other member, luckily they shipped him the right ones w/ no return charge).
As far as sway bars, like Abramite said the rear sway will make a bigger impact and you may consider the rear sway bar from a RWD G, they're much larger tubing than the X (for some unknown reason) and make a nice improvement. You might find someone selling on this site in the classifieds or post a WTB (want to buy) thread for a RWD sway, I've seen them for about 40-50 bucks.
I use Valvoline full synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid, has worked very well.
As far as sway bars, like Abramite said the rear sway will make a bigger impact and you may consider the rear sway bar from a RWD G, they're much larger tubing than the X (for some unknown reason) and make a nice improvement. You might find someone selling on this site in the classifieds or post a WTB (want to buy) thread for a RWD sway, I've seen them for about 40-50 bucks.
I use Valvoline full synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid, has worked very well.
With the brakes, I'm also considering upgrading the front and rear sway bars. With all my research, this seems to be one of the best parts to help reduce body roll and understeer on the car.
For the G37x sedan, it seems like Hotchkis is the only option, correct?
Surprisingly, amazon seems to have them in stock now!
Amazon.com: Hotchkis 22443 Sport Sway Bar Set for Nissan G35X/G37X (AWD) 08+: Automotive
Is this a good price? Should I keep the stock endlinks to start with?
For the G37x sedan, it seems like Hotchkis is the only option, correct?
Surprisingly, amazon seems to have them in stock now!
Amazon.com: Hotchkis 22443 Sport Sway Bar Set for Nissan G35X/G37X (AWD) 08+: Automotive
Is this a good price? Should I keep the stock endlinks to start with?
OP, when you get your rotors you can keep them looking much better for much longer if you do the following~
Get VHT "Flameproof" high temp paint in black~VHT FlameProof? Coating
Clean new rotors w/ spray on brake cleaner and a rag.
Mask off just the area of the brake rotor where the pads will make contact except for the inner most 1/4" of the pad area, this will make for a nice clean circle cut into the paint by the brake pad leaving a perfect look. Also clean the outer edges of the rotor (where the cooling fins are). Once you get it all cleaned & taped off then do a final wipe down w/ rubbing alcohol to get rid of oil from handling. Paint the inner hub area and the outside fin area w/ about three coats of Flameproff and let dry to the touch.
Once the rotor paint is dry, tape removed, then installed, you then run your brakes pretty hard once you confirm your new setup is working properly. Your Posi Quiet pads don't require a real bed-in (as per this FAQ link)
FAQ's - Centric Parts
but 3-4 hard slow downs from 60mph to 10mph while never coming to a full stop will heat the rotors enough to cure the paint and get an even pad transfer to your new rotors for optimum brake performance, only come to a full stop after you've driven a while without braking so your pads don't adhere to a scorching hot rotor and leave high spots on the surface.(you should do this three separate times about an hour apart to fully cure the paint).
This will keep your rotor rust free for a few years and look real bold & clean.
Get VHT "Flameproof" high temp paint in black~VHT FlameProof? Coating
Clean new rotors w/ spray on brake cleaner and a rag.
Mask off just the area of the brake rotor where the pads will make contact except for the inner most 1/4" of the pad area, this will make for a nice clean circle cut into the paint by the brake pad leaving a perfect look. Also clean the outer edges of the rotor (where the cooling fins are). Once you get it all cleaned & taped off then do a final wipe down w/ rubbing alcohol to get rid of oil from handling. Paint the inner hub area and the outside fin area w/ about three coats of Flameproff and let dry to the touch.
Once the rotor paint is dry, tape removed, then installed, you then run your brakes pretty hard once you confirm your new setup is working properly. Your Posi Quiet pads don't require a real bed-in (as per this FAQ link)
FAQ's - Centric Parts
but 3-4 hard slow downs from 60mph to 10mph while never coming to a full stop will heat the rotors enough to cure the paint and get an even pad transfer to your new rotors for optimum brake performance, only come to a full stop after you've driven a while without braking so your pads don't adhere to a scorching hot rotor and leave high spots on the surface.(you should do this three separate times about an hour apart to fully cure the paint).
This will keep your rotor rust free for a few years and look real bold & clean.
Also. Be sure to trim your dust shields enough. My front ones are rubbing slightly after an initial breaking. Just need to find the time to take everything apart again.
Good luck! It's a great upgrade!
Good luck! It's a great upgrade!
You should be able to reach in there with the wheel off and just bend the remaining metal away from the rotor.



