So I just put new rotors and pads on the G and then did a complete flush. Once everything was said and done I did a final bleed but now have no brakes for the first 15-20 pumps, then the brakes kick in but as soon as I let off the peddle I need to pump it another 10 time for the brakes to grab. Did I miss something?

 

A lot of air still in the lines somewhere?

 

This^
Did your MC get low enough any time during the bleed to let air in? If so it's going to take a lot of bleeding to get the lines air-free.
Here's a thread that may be of help, hopefully you bled in the proper sequence
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...oem-bbk-s.html

 

Try this next time:





But also, make sure you don't have an active leak going on somewhere; like one of the bleeder valves still loose?

 

ABS unit has air? That's going to be more tricky to bleed.

 

Simply letting air in from the MC or from a caliper shouldn't have introduced air into the ABS unit, but even if he did, it's still not that hard to bleed it yourself; just more steps.

 

Considering the seriousness of the issue you're having, I think vqsmile's suggestion of the power bleeder is spot on. Spend the money once and get this problem solved easily and never have to worry about it again. It's well worth it to avoid having the headache.

 

15-20 pumps is a lot to get a hard pedal. On some cars, the abs pump has to be modulated for it to be bleed correctly. Not sure if this applies to the g37 or not. This would only come into play if the MC was allowed to run dry at some point.

If the car had working brake hydraulics before, it should continue working assuming no damage was caused to other parts of the brake system - kinked lines, fittings, etc.

 

Alright thanks guys. Will go to the parts store to get the vacuum bleeder first thing in the morning and will re bleed. Update to come.

 

It's actually not a vacuum bleeder, it's a pressure bleeder (there's a big difference). If you've got the time, you'll probably find them much cheaper online.