I just lowered my 2008 G37S on Eibach pro kit springs, SPC front and back camber arms, and put on H&R 15mm wheel spacers all around, but now my alignment is clearly off and I'm not sure what I should set it at. I have been looking through the threads and I've seen some people who say to set your alignment as close to factory as possible but I'd like some advice from the community. Thanks!

PS) Sorry if this question has already been answered, but I'm somewhat of a noob just getting started in the modding scene.

 

Take your car to an alignment specialist after your springs have been on for a week. You should be ok.

 

just take it to an alignment shop. ask for a printout of your specs so you can see if all is well (which it should be)... it should show the before, the factory specs, then the actual specs (after its been aligned)...

 

Were the rear toe bolts also installed along with the rear camber arms?

 

Yes I installed the rear toe bolts along with the camber arms. From reading the forum it seemed like the best thing to do.

I appreciate the advice to take it to an alignment shop, however I am a university student and have access to my university's auto shop which has the equipment to do professional alignment FOR FREE!

I set it pretty close to factory alignment initially, and after a week (its only been 3 days as of now) I want to realign again, however I have been searching on the forums for recommendations for alignment specs in case the factory specs are not ideal but have not been able to find much

 

Unless you need excess camber to get aggressive wheels inside the fender wells then I'd just strive to get your alignment within factory specs. Mine is lowered to zero gap & I'm running 295s in back and have absolutely perfect tire wear after 15k miles and my camber is -1.1 and toe is just a bit of toe-in (negative), not sure exactly since I don't have my sheet handy but well w/in spec.

 

Just get your camber within spec... I'm pretty sur eyour school can give you a printout of your specs so you can see... post them here if you need further clarification...


blnewt: did you have to roll your fenders or cut away some of the fender liner to fit those tires? aggressive offset or nah....

 

No fender mods, I have slight rubbing on the liner under heavy compression but it happens so rarely I don't worry about it. Mine is a sedan so the fenders are rolled from the factory in the back and my rear offset is +45.

 

All you have to do it NOT lower your car. It saves money and a freaking headache

 

but a lowered G just looks so damn sexy...

 

if your on stock wheels and just springs you shouldnt have any issue having 0 camber and 0 tow. Try to actually get it actually or as close to 0 as possible even if that is "technically" out of spec it will make your tires last. You only want negative camber if you need it to make your wheels fit or you dont mind spending money on tires more often.

 

I HIGHLY discourage taking this advice. There is a reason your car, along with every other modern car, comes from the factory with negative camber in the rear. Your tires will wear perfectly fine with the factory prescribed rear camber along with regular tire rotations. Setting up zero camber will not save tire life, but may put yours in danger.

I'll let Wikipedia tackle the details as to why I make this statement:

"Camber angle alters the handling qualities of a particular suspension design; in particular, negative camber improves grip when cornering. This is because it places the tire at a better angle to the road, transmitting the forces through the vertical plane of the tire rather than through a shear force across it. Another reason for negative camber is that a rubber tire tends to roll on itself while cornering. The inside edge of the contact patch would begin to lift off of the ground if the tire had zero camber, reducing the area of the contact patch. This effect is compensated for by applying negative camber, maximizing the contact patch area."

 

I have -1.1 camber F&R and even my rear 295s have perfect tire wear, the inside, middle and outside sections of the tread are all perfectly even in depth after 15k miles.

 

Camber doesn't really kill your tires like toe would. Eibach is somewhat mild drop so I wouldn't fuss too much with camber. Just make sure you get your toe in spec.

 

Exactly, slight negative camber is ideal.

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I have no idea why someone would want 0 degrees of camber on a street car. Definitely isn't a good recommendation to the OP who claims to be "somewhat of a noob".