Hotchkis rear sway bars install
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 6,103
Likes: 593
From: People's Republic of IL
Lol... I hate relative references. They tend to contribute to ambiguity.
When I get around to installing mine (eibach), I'll start out with the softest setting up front (closest to bar end), and middle in the rear. After a few hundred miles, it should be obvious if this combo is sufficient or too harsh. IIRC, any hole combination on most/all(?) after market sway bars is still stiffer than stock.
When I get around to installing mine (eibach), I'll start out with the softest setting up front (closest to bar end), and middle in the rear. After a few hundred miles, it should be obvious if this combo is sufficient or too harsh. IIRC, any hole combination on most/all(?) after market sway bars is still stiffer than stock.
I started at the middle setting. Doesnt ride different that I could tell, but cornering is way stiff. I think if I put the rear on the third hole (furthest from the end of the bar) it would start sliding.
I still think this is the single best mod I have done to my vert! HUGE improvement in cornering and general drive ability. I know the vert will never be a GREAT handling car due to it being a vert, but this mod has made it a MUCH better handling car. I HIGHLY recommend it!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 6,103
Likes: 593
From: People's Republic of IL
Did my rear bar install today. For reference, 2012 G37 sedan, stock exhaust, stock suspension, eibach bars.
Had the pleasure of doing this on my back with the car up on drive on ramps (lifted by way of rear diff). I didn't have my adapter made for for the pinch welds/jack stands so used a floor jack on either side as a safety.
Removing the old one did not involve any exhaust dropping. I was able to snake out out by turning and maneuvering it around the diff and other obstacles. The new one was noticeably thicker. There were 2 small hangers (held by a 10mm bolt each) I had to loosen to get enough room to get it into place. Overall, took about 1h45m start to finish. Had to do a few runs to get the correct wrenches and ratchets. Breaking the bolts loose was a piece of cake once I used the long breaker bar (2' or 2.5' long). The regular shorty just didn't give the leverage.
Road testing the car is a bit inconclusive since the job is only have done. Can't say I notice much difference with just the rear bar and stock front. Maybe more noticeable on the stiff setting, but I left it in the middle hole.
I'm about 300 miles away from my first oil change. Figured no reason to drop the shield twice. Will do it when I do the oil change in a few weeks. I expect the front one to be easier yet.
Btw, noticed the stock bushings were not rubber, but poly too.
Had the pleasure of doing this on my back with the car up on drive on ramps (lifted by way of rear diff). I didn't have my adapter made for for the pinch welds/jack stands so used a floor jack on either side as a safety.
Removing the old one did not involve any exhaust dropping. I was able to snake out out by turning and maneuvering it around the diff and other obstacles. The new one was noticeably thicker. There were 2 small hangers (held by a 10mm bolt each) I had to loosen to get enough room to get it into place. Overall, took about 1h45m start to finish. Had to do a few runs to get the correct wrenches and ratchets. Breaking the bolts loose was a piece of cake once I used the long breaker bar (2' or 2.5' long). The regular shorty just didn't give the leverage.
Road testing the car is a bit inconclusive since the job is only have done. Can't say I notice much difference with just the rear bar and stock front. Maybe more noticeable on the stiff setting, but I left it in the middle hole.
I'm about 300 miles away from my first oil change. Figured no reason to drop the shield twice. Will do it when I do the oil change in a few weeks. I expect the front one to be easier yet.
Btw, noticed the stock bushings were not rubber, but poly too.
Just a bit of advice. I got those done too and they were fantastic except after six months or so you may notice a creaking over every bump or when you go over a hill and go back down. Just jack the car up and get some grease (I used that synthetic pink Mobil grease) and put it into the bushing. That fixes it for another six months.
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 6,103
Likes: 593
From: People's Republic of IL
Bit the bullet and did the front today along with the first oil change.
Are people noticing an immediate difference after installation? I went with the soft hole in the front (closest to bar end) and middle hole in the rear. On high speed corners (a few on/off ramps), there is more chassis stabilization and somewhat less body roll. The change in oversteer/understeer is subtle. Seems like there is still some understeer, but not as much.
As for the ride itself, I can't tell a huge difference. Doesn't seem like there is a whole lot more harshness to it, and bumps feel about the same. At this point, i'll leave the settings as is for my trip in a few weeks to the dragon, then decide if I really need to mess with it, or leave it as is.
Maybe the hotchkis bar makes a more pronounced difference because the front bar is stiffer.
Are people noticing an immediate difference after installation? I went with the soft hole in the front (closest to bar end) and middle hole in the rear. On high speed corners (a few on/off ramps), there is more chassis stabilization and somewhat less body roll. The change in oversteer/understeer is subtle. Seems like there is still some understeer, but not as much.
As for the ride itself, I can't tell a huge difference. Doesn't seem like there is a whole lot more harshness to it, and bumps feel about the same. At this point, i'll leave the settings as is for my trip in a few weeks to the dragon, then decide if I really need to mess with it, or leave it as is.
Maybe the hotchkis bar makes a more pronounced difference because the front bar is stiffer.
Just finished up swapping out my stock bars for the Hotchkis 22241 kit. Raining very hard so I have not yet tested them out. JSolo, thanks for the clutch spring! One question, I have a '13 G37S 6MT and noticed during my install that my car is possibly missing rear plastic splash shields that would protect the rear sway bar bushings/brackets. I see holes for fasteners. Just wondering. Thanks
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 6,103
Likes: 593
From: People's Republic of IL
^^You're welcome.
Mine (2012) didn't have any splash covers for the rear either. Nissan cutting every corner possible these days. At least they use bolts to hold the chassis to the drive line.
Mine (2012) didn't have any splash covers for the rear either. Nissan cutting every corner possible these days. At least they use bolts to hold the chassis to the drive line.
Can they be had? I would prefer keeping all of the water and road debris away from my brackets and bushing back there! The Hotchkis set up is a noticeable improvement over stock. You actually get a feeling that the car is pre - loaded and ready to react. Have'nt noticed a loss in ride quality, but it has only been a day. I wouldn't go back anyway now. Anyone need a set of stock 37S Sedan anti - sway bars, 1600 miles from new? Thx
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