VDC Light and Slip Light Comes on....

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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 06:31 PM
  #16  
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Domate
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Had this issue last week, installed new pads and "whalah", the lights went away.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 01:06 AM
  #17  
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This happened to me and it needed an alignment. When i put headers on, when the steering rod was reconnected it wasnt straight.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 03:14 AM
  #18  
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I have a problem with my G35 2007 sedan I installed a stillen air intake generation 3 when I finished installing the air intakes and i tested when the RPM goes up for 6000r/min or more the VDC light on and the slip as well !
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 12:57 PM
  #19  
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BLAIR'N G372012
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Originally Posted by Yaz
I have a problem with my G35 2007 sedan I installed a stillen air intake generation 3 when I finished installing the air intakes and i tested when the RPM goes up for 6000r/min or more the VDC light on and the slip as well !
Yaz reset your Ecu... Stillen gen 3's are touchy like that. I reseted mine and fixed the issue... quick fix... also wrap your tubes by the AC or you'll ware a hole in the tubes... simple fixes..

My 2012 did the same on the Brakes last week...popped the hood fluid was low filled it up and no light...
I have less than 15k and was like Wut!!! Our G's dump in the rear when we accelerate and bringing the fluid down and sets off the sensor. Dealer said its a common issue! Crazy I know... Pads nah... but looking for new rotors and brake set up now...
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 11:37 PM
  #20  
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My 2009 G37X experienced all of the above. Slip blinks on right turns occasionally. fast accel cause Slip, VDC off, and sometimes Brake lights to come on. sometimes stays until car is turned off.

it is the fluid. my recent turning of the rotor or wear in pads in your cases causes the caliper pistons to extend farther lowering the brake fluid. check the fluid on level grade and make sure it is at the top of the allowable level mark (MAX). this will solve your problem. there is a cheap toilet bowl float style sensor in the reservoir.

only change pads when you need them or want to upgrade to Ake or Hawk or similar. Check the fluid level often.
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 01:43 AM
  #21  
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Yup as mentioned before by others, its the brake fluid level. When your pads wear they lower the fluid level and when you accelerate quickly it moves the fluid away from the sensor on the reservoir causing the lights to come on. ** Remember because you top of the fluid at this point, when you change your pads with new ones, you will need to take out some fluid from the reservoir to prevent overflow.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 06:32 AM
  #22  
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Just ran into this problem after recent trip to the track. Is adding fluid typically just a band aid in this case? Or is this normal over the lifetime of the pads?
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Old Apr 8, 2019 | 11:39 AM
  #23  
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Yeah I think that could be it, my front tires are way smaller than my rears, I thought it was that break fluid thing but mine is full so I doubt it’s that, but if that worked for some people than good for them. I still think it’s probably bc of the tires. My backs are meaty as **** lmao

Originally Posted by PixelBoy21
I got the same issue..however I believe it is from the large size discrepancy on my new tires..my front are significantly smaller in diameter than my rear..after some research I have discovered that this is probably throwing off my wheel sensors..so I have just ordered new fronts to fit better and will report my findings....

things most people check when this happens:
Brake fluid/pads/rotors/wheel sensors(damage or corrosion).
Make sure your Brake lights are working when the dash lights come on...some people have reported a faulty switch which in turn kills your brake lights...dangerous
Even worse is that I have heard the transmission may have issues...
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Old Apr 8, 2019 | 12:05 PM
  #24  
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You have to calculate diameter or circumference of your tires. The ECU bitches when there's more than a 3% difference.
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