For those with JIC coils
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From: New York City
For those with JIC coils
can you let me know what settings you have on them?
I'm getting them install this week and i want the ride to be as close to stock as possible, maybe a tad stiffer than stock..
Thanks!
I'm getting them install this week and i want the ride to be as close to stock as possible, maybe a tad stiffer than stock..
Thanks!
I had mine initially set to 10. On a smooth road it was great, but on a bumpy road it was a little too bouncy.
Now I've got them set on 7 and I think for a daily driver on average/crappy roads, it's perfect.
Now I've got them set on 7 and I think for a daily driver on average/crappy roads, it's perfect.
i have mine on 9 front and rear. The ride is pretty good, def stiffer than stock. Ima try 7 and see how that is.
I got a question, theyre supposed to be 15way, but when i count the clicks i get about 17-18 clicks from them. Is that normal.
I got a question, theyre supposed to be 15way, but when i count the clicks i get about 17-18 clicks from them. Is that normal.
I noticed that when you get to either end of adjustment (1 or 15), there seems to be small portion where it'll turn, then hit a "click stop." I'm thinking that if you get all the way to the end, and turn until that first click stop, then you're at 15 or 1. If you count it this way, there are 15 stops rather than 17.
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The handling is still very neutral too, no real under/over steer so far. I may try and move my Hotchkis sway bar to the middle setting once I get the 19's and some better tires. As it is right now, my oem 18" tires are the weak point, and I'm obviously exceeding their capabilities with the JIC/Hotchkis combination. I'm thinking some FK452/S-drives in 245/275 will do a lot to help with the apparant lack of grip I'm experiencing right now.
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From: New York City
I'm liking the setting so far, after about a week of driving on it. There's a lot of road construction in the area I work in, and the ride is still manageable even though the road is really bumpy (crappy temporary pavement patches) in some spots.
The handling is still very neutral too, no real under/over steer so far. I may try and move my Hotchkis sway bar to the middle setting once I get the 19's and some better tires. As it is right now, my oem 18" tires are the weak point, and I'm obviously exceeding their capabilities with the JIC/Hotchkis combination. I'm thinking some FK452/S-drives in 245/275 will do a lot to help with the apparant lack of grip I'm experiencing right now.
The handling is still very neutral too, no real under/over steer so far. I may try and move my Hotchkis sway bar to the middle setting once I get the 19's and some better tires. As it is right now, my oem 18" tires are the weak point, and I'm obviously exceeding their capabilities with the JIC/Hotchkis combination. I'm thinking some FK452/S-drives in 245/275 will do a lot to help with the apparant lack of grip I'm experiencing right now.
I have JIC coils and hotchkis sways as well. keep me posted on how things are running with your setup
I changed the fronts to 8, and left the rears on 7. Seems to be a bit more controlled over bumpy roads at higher speeds. It seems as though I can now "sense" more body roll, so I'm going to try the middle hole on the rear sway bar once I can find the time to change it.
Here's how I solved adjusting the rears w/o removing the strut (passenger side shown):

1. The seat is super easy to remove. There's 2 tabs on the lower seat cushion where your calves would touch the cushion. Pull them out toward the front of the car and the cushion will pop up.
2. There's 4 bolts that hold each side of the seat back onto the frame (2 per seat cushion). IIRC, they were about a 17mm or so, and there's 2 on each side. The seat backs are independent of each other, and the center arm rest area will stay mounted to the car. Once you remove the 4 bolts, pivot the lower seat back portion (where the bolts were) up to about 70*ish, and they will release from the tabs that hold the top part of the seat back to the frame.
3. I used a drill driver and 2 uni-bits to make the hole. I centered the hole, but in retrospect the hole should be slightly inset more toward the middle of the car (the strut nut isn't exactly "centered")
4. I IM'd Adrian at JIC about the extenders, but once I opened up the seat, I saw what Alan was talking about how the extender would get kinked by the seat back, and removing the seat would still be necessary. So, save yourself the 85 bux and just make the hole for adjustment.
4. Now you can make easy adjustments using the JIC allen wrench tool once you remove the seat. Once you get the hang of removing the seat, it'll take you 5 minutes, tops.
Here's how I solved adjusting the rears w/o removing the strut (passenger side shown):

1. The seat is super easy to remove. There's 2 tabs on the lower seat cushion where your calves would touch the cushion. Pull them out toward the front of the car and the cushion will pop up.
2. There's 4 bolts that hold each side of the seat back onto the frame (2 per seat cushion). IIRC, they were about a 17mm or so, and there's 2 on each side. The seat backs are independent of each other, and the center arm rest area will stay mounted to the car. Once you remove the 4 bolts, pivot the lower seat back portion (where the bolts were) up to about 70*ish, and they will release from the tabs that hold the top part of the seat back to the frame.
3. I used a drill driver and 2 uni-bits to make the hole. I centered the hole, but in retrospect the hole should be slightly inset more toward the middle of the car (the strut nut isn't exactly "centered")
4. I IM'd Adrian at JIC about the extenders, but once I opened up the seat, I saw what Alan was talking about how the extender would get kinked by the seat back, and removing the seat would still be necessary. So, save yourself the 85 bux and just make the hole for adjustment.
4. Now you can make easy adjustments using the JIC allen wrench tool once you remove the seat. Once you get the hang of removing the seat, it'll take you 5 minutes, tops.
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