When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but they do not look legit. Genuine Philips bulbs have a characteristic blue color when looking at the glass of the bulb off angle. Genuine Philips Ultinons also have a blue return wire. And also the packaging is not that of a Philips genuine Ultinon 6000K bulbs.
Also the packaging says standard Philips, but standard Philips would be 4300K, not 6000K. And if i remember reading correctly, Philips only makes the 85122+ now and not the standard 85122 which color shifted over time to 4800-5000K with use. The 85122+ stays at 4300K throughout its life.
That box SCREAMS Fake!!
First of all, there is no disclaimer on the bulb that states "NOT FOR USE IN EU/US" which should be written on the base. The box is labeled incorrectly, the "Philips" lettering is waaaay off. The bulb insulator should at least be blue (even fake ones have blue insulator, this guy really fooled you). Google how to tell if your 6000K Philips bulb (which is called the "Ultinon") is fake. Below is what it should look like along with its box..Come on people, I though you guys knew better. This link on ebay shows what the new boxes are looking like along with its box. Or like I originally stated, spend the cash and buy from a reputable source such as The Retrofit Source..http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Phil...-/171928039516
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but they do not look legit. Genuine Philips bulbs have a characteristic blue color when looking at the glass of the bulb off angle. Genuine Philips Ultinons also have a blue return wire. And also the packaging is not that of a Philips genuine Ultinon 6000K bulbs.
Also the packaging says standard Philips, but standard Philips would be 4300K, not 6000K. And if i remember reading correctly, Philips only makes the 85122+ now and not the standard 85122 which color shifted over time to 4800-5000K with use. The 85122+ stays at 4300K throughout its life.
You are correct, however the new D2S Ultinon come 85122 WX per TRS. If you get like a D1S or something then they come 85410 WX. I personally would never get the Ultinons because their output is so low and why would anyone pay so much to lose output. The Osram CBI's were decent until they color shifted and became dull. The Philips 4300K 85122+ is king.
You are correct, however the new D2S Ultinon come 85122 WX per TRS. If you get like a D1S or something then they come 85410 WX. I personally would never get the Ultinons because their output is so low and why would anyone pay so much to lose output. The Osram CBI's were decent until they color shifted and became dull. The Philips 4300K 85122+ is king.
Right, the 85122 WX would be for the D2S version. Ive had the Ultinons before and you're right in saying that the output is no good, way too dim to be useable, but I loved the color they produced. Running CBIs right now and I can attest to them dimming over time. I have heard that the 4800K Philips Xteme Vision maintain their brightness for longer, but never tried it out myself.
These bulbs aren't cheap, any deals that seem too good to be true on eBay are probably just that. I'd stick to a trusted seller like TRS.
Whelp, one worked and one did not. Tested them both on one side and wasn't about to have my headlights different shades. OEM back on for now. Figured for $50 why not give it a shot.
Yep, amazed they have the positive feedback that they do.
Probably because the average person doesn't know what a real Philips bulb/box is supposed to look like. Definitely write to eBay/PayPal and get your refund and possibly shut them down.
Probably because the average person doesn't know what a real Philips bulb/box is supposed to look like. Definitely write to eBay/PayPal and get your refund and possibly shut them down.
and some people on here believing reviews
Get your money back and fork up the cash to buy from TRS.
Brighter then my 7 year old oem bulbs. Problem is they won't turn on until I click on and off twice . Is this a bulb or ballast problem?
I've heard that the ballasts on our cars are very sensitive and will only take a certain quality of bulb to work properly. If you had no issues with your OEM bulbs and are just noticing this issue now with your new bulbs, I'm willing to bet the problem is the bulbs.
