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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 11:18 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Dembflyr
Sounds like a step by step DIY write up is in order.
Well I'm going to give it a go in the near future. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 07:07 AM
  #32  
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30k on odometer. My clock was flickering for 1 miles until my next oil change. Fixed under warranty.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 08:35 AM
  #33  
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Bought my 2012 Sedan with 23k miles on it. Came to realize that the clock light was out. (Daytime test drive)

Took it to the local dealer and they fixed it under warranty.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 09:15 AM
  #34  
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2010 with 44,000 miles and never had any issue
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 01:18 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Fox331
Well I'm going to give it a go in the near future. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
Well if there is a fix, we'll be waiting for your DIY, keep us informed I heard some diodes must be replaced or something complicated like that, but get on it, I want my clock to work lol
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 04:38 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by pahanorlando
Well if there is a fix, we'll be waiting for your DIY, keep us informed I heard some diodes must be replaced or something complicated like that, but get on it, I want my clock to work lol
Well pulled my clock out today and this what I found. After opening up the clock housing and removing the clock circuit board I found that there are four springs that transfer power from the pins on the back of the case to the contacts on the circuit board. I put power directly to the circuit board itself and the LEDs would light just fine. I found it kinda weird that they would use springs to take power from the input pins on the clock housing to the circuit board. However, this makes sense why the lights would start flickering and eventually go out if the springs became weak. I simply stretched the springs some and reinstalled everything and my lights now work again. Only time will tell if this fix will last or not. I have no idea if this is the main issue with these clocks or not. It would be interesting if someone else who has a non lighting clock would try this fix and see if their lights work again. LEDs generally just don't go bad so the power transfer issue with the springs makes more sense.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 04:52 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Fox331
Well pulled my clock out today and this what I found. After opening up the clock housing and removing the clock circuit board I found that there are four springs that transfer power from the pins on the back of the case to the contacts on the circuit board. I put power directly to the circuit board itself and the LEDs would light just fine. I found it kinda weird that they would use springs to take power from the input pins on the clock housing to the circuit board. However, this makes sense why the lights would start flickering and eventually go out if the springs became weak. I simply stretched the springs some and reinstalled everything and my lights now work again. Only time will tell if this fix will last or not. I have no idea if this is the main issue with these clocks or not. It would be interesting if someone else who has a non lighting clock would try this fix and see if their lights work again. LEDs generally just don't go bad so the power transfer issue with the springs makes more sense.
That is very interesting and makes a lot of sense. I only assumed the LED would be burning out because it is not unheard of for a few to go out in the gauge cluster or tail lights. But with how frequent the clocks were going bad, it makes sense that something else was going on.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 10:08 PM
  #38  
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interesting. Did you take any pics of the inside?
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 05:19 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by pahanorlando
Well if there is a fix, we'll be waiting for your DIY, keep us informed I heard some diodes must be replaced or something complicated like that, but get on it, I want my clock to work lol
Originally Posted by iCrap
interesting. Did you take any pics of the inside?
Unfortunately I didn't end up taking any pics. If you separate the top part of the case where the lens is from the white back part you will be left with the clock face and circuit board clipped into the white back portion still. When you unclip the circuit board itself this is where you will find the springs that make the electrical contact to the board.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 08:51 PM
  #40  
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From: Central Florida
Thought about buying used one on ebay and take it apart, but found this one

10 11 Infiniti G37 Clock and Face Plate Replacement 25810 1CA1B C52290 | eBay

At least according to the part number, should be fixed clock, cross my fingers
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 10:53 PM
  #41  
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Just wanted to update you guys, I replaced the clock. Not too easy, had to take board of the piece off, like 15 screws. But overall not too tough. I also needed to replace glass in front of the clock as the one I got with my order was scratched.

I tried to disassemble my old clock further and ended up damaging few pieces. From what I understood, don't take it in small pieces from the front. Use flat screwdriver through the rear.













Last edited by pahanorlando; Aug 22, 2016 at 09:14 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 07:29 AM
  #42  
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From: St-Jérôme, Québec, Canada
2009, 224 000km (140 000miles) and still like new ! I don't know if it was changed by the first owner, but I have the car since almost 3 years now. Maybe 2009 was a good year or our strong canadian winter freeze it half of the year so it won't age :P
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 11:11 AM
  #43  
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Where are the springs which transfer the power that the other guy was talking about?

Also, WOW my clock is not that bright. Time to disassemble mine as well i guess...
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 01:11 PM
  #44  
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In the photo of the empty housing, the four prongs on the left have a spring around each. The photo angle makes them look more like cylinders.

The brightness is an artifact of the photo process and having the instrument brightness at max.
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 07:20 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by slartibartfast
In the photo of the empty housing, the four prongs on the left have a spring around each. The photo angle makes them look more like cylinders.
^correct
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